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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
190 NANTUCKET: Winterizing
|Author||Topic: 190 NANTUCKET: Winterizing|
posted 09-09-2005 07:56 PM ET (US)
Any hints or tips on winterizing a Nantucket 190 with a 150 Optimax.
posted 09-10-2005 12:09 AM ET (US)
I've searched the old threads and have gotten a lot information on winterizing. On the Nantucket I`m going to wash and wax, remove canvas/cushions/battery for inside storage, drain livewell lines (open seacock and flow control valve). and pull bilge plug. Cover with nylon tarp. I also will place trays of charcoal brickets in the boat to deter mice. Otherwise storage is outside ,temperatures to -30F.
Wish I had a garage large enough and tall enough. Maybe in a year or so. I`ll have a dealer winterize the motor so depending on price I may have them shrink wrap it for me.
I have about 25 gallons left which I think is a lot to stabilize. I hope to use up 15 of that. I am considering siphoning out the gas if 25 is left at the end.
On the 135 Optimax there seems to be a lot of the conflicting ideas from board members, dealers and manual.
Some dealers don`t do what the manual reccommends or have their own ideas (adding Quickleen or oil to cyclinders, indexing spark plugs, running anti-freeze thru cooling system). I'm going to call a couple of local dealers here and ask exactly what they do beyond the standard gear oil change and filter and lubrication. According to two dealers here (Canada) you can`t get Quickleen in Canada. I`ll have to decide in a week or so as the season here is ending soon and I don`t want to be caught by a quick freeze or snowfall. With our old aluminum boat, we`d leave her in until the lake was about to freeze and then just drag her up on the beach over the snow. Things were simpler then, not nearly as good but simpler.
Stevi, I `ll let you know what I find out with the motor. Do you keep your boat in Minneapolis or the Lakes Region around Brainerd?
posted 09-10-2005 08:09 PM ET (US)
Thanks for all of the information.
I usually have the dealer do the winterization for the engine. I keep the boat stored outside in the winter in Minneapolis, where it is used primarily.
I am thinking about doing most of the winter prep myself this year. We'll see what develops with that. I was curious what other people do on their own for winterization, since I have found similar conflicting ideas..... as you had mentioned. Thanks for the reply.
posted 09-10-2005 10:05 PM ET (US)
Does the Quickclean act as a fuel stabilizer? I store the boat full of fuel to prevent condensation.
posted 09-11-2005 03:11 AM ET (US)
I believe jimh has an article in the archives here that really disproves condensation to be a factor in a marine setting. [I do? Where?--jimh.] I think you`ll have more of a problem with old fuel, even if stabilized.
Here in Winnipeg in the winter condensation can be a problem if say your parking in a heated garage at about 60 degrees with a near empty tank and then driving outside in minus 30 degrees.
posted 09-11-2005 01:37 PM ET (US)
Not to sidetrack the discussion but a stored boat may not be in a "marine environment" and in the aviation field that I am in I have seen and measured copious amounts of condensation in fuel which is why aircraft tend to be stored full/full. It probably is not a big issue with a boat because you can always paddle back to shore and the engines have filters.
posted 09-11-2005 03:12 PM ET (US)
I guess what I meant by saying marine setting was that the boat is removed once from the water and stored inside at a constant temperature or outside at a slowly changing temperature. My understanding of condensation is that warm moist air has to be cooled to cause condensation. The greater the temperature range and cycles the more condensation you get. That was my vehicle in winter example,constant temperature change and adding fuel. Planes are subject to extreme temperature variations depending on the altitude they fly at. Is that why there is more condensation in that setting? But you also mention that planes are stored full. For how long ? My boat will sit here for seven to eight months so my concern is mostly old fuel. Thanks , Ken<
posted 09-13-2005 04:23 AM ET (US)
I knew it would sidetrack us--sorry-- aircraft stored also see temp variations if in an unheated hanger. This is where I have seen the most condensation. Aircraft are typically stored full/full for numerous reasons including eliminating condensation. Av gas will be good for months. Private aircraft may sit idle for long periods between use, well, private boats often sit idle for long periods too. I would not worry much about it. If you have not had condensation problems in the past then you are OK. Fuel last longer than people think it does if stored correctly, now premix, that is a different animal, premix gas I would not use after several weeks if that long. Good luck.
posted 09-13-2005 03:48 PM ET (US)
Store the boat full and use Sta-Bil or other product to keep the fuel fresh.
In MN, and other locations in the Midwest, we often have very volatile temperature swings in fall and spring--you may have put the boat away and get a cool spell of 50-60 degree days, but then cycle through a week of humid an 80 degrees (allowing your tank to warm up again) and then a dramatic drop to the 40's (while your fuel tank still has that warm, moist air in it). Same (in reverse) in the summer.
Store it full, use the stabilizer and then in the spring, go USE THE BOAT to burn off last year's fuel.
As for care for the engine, you definitely need to remove the prop, grease the hub and spindle and re-attach.
Then change the lower unit gearcase oil. At this time, inspect existing oil for presence of any water intrusion.
Run the engine and pull the gas line - allow the engine to run dry (Carburated motors).
Pull the cowling on your motor and pull the spark plugs. Spray fogging oil directly into the cylinders via the spark plug hole (liberally coating the cylinder). Turn the flywheel by hand a few times so that the pistons cycle, and do it again. Replace the plugs.
Use a rag and wipe grease/dirt off the powerhead, then use a silicone spray on all rubber/plastic components on the powerhead, lightly coating these components. Replace cowling.
Pull your batteries (or attach a float charger). I recommend pulling the batteries and storing them in your basement or perhaps a laundry room or other climate-controlled but work-oriented room in our house. Use a float charger ($29 from SEARS) to keep the batteries full without over charging them.
Go back out and give your motor a good cleaning with soap and water. If touch-up paint is needed, do it. Now WAX the motor - cowling, lower unit. (This should be done in the spring as well). Treat the motor just like you would the hull - it requires cleaning and waxing just as often, or it will fade just like gelcoat.
Check your zincs for corrosion and replace as necessary.
Lubricate your steering system - hydraulic rams, etc.
Clean and replace components as necessary. - the off season is the perfect time for little projects and replacements of corroded fasteners, etc. You can take your time and do it right.
Finally, tilt the engine so it is as upright as possible, with very little stress on the hydraulic rams.
posted 09-13-2005 03:49 PM ET (US)
Swap "Spring" for "summer" above.
I've still got summer on the mind....
posted 09-16-2005 12:49 PM ET (US)
Keep in mind too that the temperature changes under those dark blue shrink-wraps will be even more severe than the outside temperature changes. I always store my boat with a full tank and use Sta-Bil
posted 09-17-2005 11:10 AM ET (US)
My winterization process is about the same as Dave's process, with one exception. Mercury now recommends squirting Opti-oil into the cylinders rather than fogging oil. They are claiming fogging oil can clog injectors.
Here's a tip for changing spark plugs. The lower left plug can be difficult to change. Snap-On makes a 3/8 drive flex ratchet that's built on a 1/4 in. frame. It fits right in the space available. Also, I finally figured out that tilting the motor all the way up and then installing the plug was a bunch easier with gravity on my side. I slip a piece of 5/16 fuel line about an inch long over the end of the plug. That gives me something to hold onto, and the hose will turn free if the plug isn't started into the threads properly.
A little anti-seize on the plug threads - be sure you don't get anti-seize on the electrode - and you're good to go. Anti-seize works on propellors also.
posted 09-18-2005 03:28 PM ET (US)
I don't recall writing an article on winterization that said condensation was a myth. Can we have a pointer to it? My actual feeling is that condensation is a problem, and when storing your boat you need to prepare your fuel system and any fuel in it. However, this process is the same for all boats with internal fuel tanks, post-classic or classic, and it is well-covered in other articles.
Thanks for the tip about special tools needed to change the spark plug on the OptiMax V-6 engines. Also the trick of tilting the engine sounds like it would be helpful, too. These are good things to know.
I don't put anti-seize on the threads of the spark plugs because in general they get changed so often that I do not think it is a problem. For the propeller shaft, most service manuals recommend using a marine lubricant, which is cheaper than anti-seize by about a ten-to-one ratio.
[Editor's note: in several places corrected spelling of seize, one of just a few English words in which the rule "I" before "e" except after "c" unless sounded like "a" as in "neighbor" or "weigh" is violated. Others are "weird" and "plebeian".]
posted 09-18-2005 11:12 PM ET (US)
Jimh, I apologise as the article on condensation apparently did not come from you...maybe not from CW . I must have read it on another forum or in a boating magazine.
It had a lot of technical informatiom and calculations to show that the actual condensation in most situations would be minimal. It did not say condensation was a myth but rather that the amount produced would be mimimal and not a concern. I will try to find the article and its link.
.....so now I need to decide if I should leave my tank 1/2 full and stabilize, fill it and stabilize or ....
posted 09-18-2005 11:44 PM ET (US)
I would love to see the article; if you find it, by all means give us a pointer to it.
Yes, filling half way does provide a reasonable position to take on this question! That is about what happened to me last winter.
The yard where I store my boat asks that you not top off the tank to the brim as they apparently have had some problems with fuel sloshing out the vent line from really full tanks when boats get move into and out of the indoor storage building.
posted 09-19-2005 03:54 AM ET (US)
I have an acessory question along these lines. I plan on still using my nantucket off and on throughout the winter should I worry alot about trying to do all the normal "winterizing" or just keep it at dry as possiable?
posted 09-19-2005 09:25 PM ET (US)
Sory aboot the speling.
I anti-seize the plugs once, to keep them from corroding. After the first time, the residual seems to be enough. I like using it on the prop because it doesn't have to be re-done every season.
I tend to use it anytime anything screws into aluminum - it resists galvanic (sp?) corrosion.
It is more expensive than grease, but so little gets used the average person won't use up a can in ten years.
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