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Author Topic:   Anchor locker liner
Milepost43 posted 11-19-2005 08:19 PM ET (US)   Profile for Milepost43   Send Email to Milepost43  
Have tried a couple of different things to "pad" the anchor locker in my 220 Dauntless. Not really satisfied.

Would appreciate any ideas others may have used. Thanks.

Chuck Tribolet posted 11-20-2005 08:14 AM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
How about this approach (last picture):


rumrunner posted 11-20-2005 09:14 AM ET (US)     Profile for rumrunner  Send Email to rumrunner     
I like that idea, nice.
Also, a few squares of Dri-Deck cut to fit work well too if you're worried about scuffs/chips etc.
K Albus posted 11-20-2005 05:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for K Albus  Send Email to K Albus     
I have a 180 Dauntless, and I tried to use a couple of squares of Dri-Deck to line my anchor locker. The arms of my Danforth anchor kept poking through the Dri-Deck and scratching the gelcoat. I remedied this by getting two tennis balls, drilling holes in them, and using them as caps for the ends of the arms on the anchor. (I take the tennis balls off when I need to use the anchor.)
DBOutrage17 posted 11-20-2005 08:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for DBOutrage17  Send Email to DBOutrage17     
I'll second the tennis balls. That plus 150' of anchor line pads my bow locker.
BobL posted 11-20-2005 10:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for BobL  Send Email to BobL     
The ends of a Danforth anchor can be tamed with a couple short lengths of rubber tubing. Select a diameter of tubing that will fit snugly over the ends and cut them a quarter inch longer than the metal ends. The rubber will not affect the performance of the anchor. It will reduce the amount of dings it inflicts on the gelcoat.
montaukman posted 11-21-2005 08:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for montaukman  Send Email to montaukman     
Hi Everyone,

Has anyone ever hung their danforth or similar anchor from the bow rail on the 170 Montauk? There is no center post for the rail so i am a tad nervous in that it may not be strong enough after time to support an anchor.

I was fishing about 3 weeks ago next to the third wantagh bridge on long island and saw a gentleman that had a new 170 that employed two of those hanging hooks for anchors (one on either side) and i wasn't able to contact him as to whether he had any issues. Didn't want to spook the fish or piss off other fisherman.

If you happen to be on this forum, please write back and let me know if you you experienced any problems. If anyone else has advice, i'll listen

I want to use the anchor locker for other storage and might actually mount the anchor via starboard to my deck on the bow. not sure if that will interfere with the mills shelter i may buy and if it will allow itself to be deployed easily when the shelter is up.

Thanks for any help.


Chuck Tribolet posted 11-21-2005 11:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
There have been several reports of Montauk 170 bow rails
breaking WITHOUT having an anchor on them. My buddy Kawika
has had his break twice. First time BW fixed on warantee.
Second time he took it off.

Kawika keeps his anchor in chocks on the raised part of the


Riverwhaler posted 11-21-2005 08:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for Riverwhaler  Send Email to Riverwhaler     
Chuck I used your bucket idea and it works great. When you close the cover on it the anchor stays in place. The bucket I used is leftover from sheetrock joint compound and hasn't split yet. Remember to tie the end of line to the eye so the whole thing ends up over the side in an emergency.
Riverwhaler posted 11-21-2005 08:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for Riverwhaler  Send Email to Riverwhaler     
doesn't end up over the side. No matter how many times I read before posting......
Chuck Tribolet posted 11-22-2005 02:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
That's why that end of the anchor line is called the bitter
end -- if it goes over the side, you'll be bitter. ;-)

It should certainly be secured to the lifting eye. Don't
splice it directly to the eye though, because you may want
to get underway NOW. There's an eye splice in mine, with
a thimble to simplify the annual turning of the rode. It's
attached to the lifting eye with an SS carabiner. If I need
to go NOW, unclip, clip to a fender (also stored in the bow
locker, toss overboard, and GO). We've done this under
duress a couple of times when one of the nearby commercial
dive boats had a medical emergency, and it make the decision
really easy because you can always come back and collect the
anchor later. No worries, mate.


swist posted 11-22-2005 07:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for swist  Send Email to swist     
Doesn't this strike you as a little silly? Whaler promotes the gelcoated interior of lockers, bilges, etc as a feature ("just wipe it clean" says the brochure). Looking for ways to protect that gelcoat against dings maybe suggests it is the wrong material for the application???

While I am not suggesting they go back to "ugly rough-finished resin work with shards of glass sticking out", surely there is a compromise - a smooth resin surface easy to clean yet hard enough to take abuse.

Diver Dan posted 11-22-2005 08:19 AM ET (US)     Profile for Diver Dan  Send Email to Diver Dan     
Montaukman: have a Danforth mounted on the vertical rail at the bow of my 1993 Montauk (17)using a Windline Vetical Anchor Bracket Model No 48853, $42.99 , page 713, West Marine 2005 catalog. Covered the shank of the anchor with a piece of clear vynl tubing to prevent scratching the deck or the raised portion of the bollard pin base. Ran the 6'of vynl covered anchor chain through a Windline Anchor Lock, Model no 143961, PAGE 713 West Marine catalog. Just in front of the Anchor Lock I glued a piece of rubber none-skid to prevent the shackle of the anchor from dinging the top of the bow locker hatch. I cut a hole in the bow hatch cover and installed a hinged hawse pipe to feed the anchor rode and chain through. Lined the bow locker with dri-dek, drilled a hole through a piece of hardwood which is large enough to prevent it from going thru the hawse pipe, fed the bitter end of the anchor rode thru and tied a know. I pull the anchor chain as tight as I can and secure with by feeding the locking pin on the anchor lock thru one of the chain links. In the ten 12 years I've had my Montauk, including some 5-6 footers on Lake Michigan, and use by my teenage son, who swears he never took the boat over 40 mph, absolutely no problem with this anchor stowage configuration. the anchor locker holds 150' of line plus chain and still room left over. Hope this gives you something to think about.
Diver Dan posted 11-22-2005 08:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for Diver Dan  Send Email to Diver Dan     
Sorry, didn't register that you have a newer Montauk,. Perhaps there may be a way to install a vertical rail at the bow. Juswt a thought.
SEGrin posted 11-23-2005 09:35 AM ET (US)     Profile for SEGrin  Send Email to SEGrin     
I wonder if Rhino lining for pickup beds would work. I haven't scratched the gelcoat, but the anchor (Fortress aluminium) leaves gray skidmarks all over the inside.
Backlash posted 11-25-2005 07:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Backlash  Send Email to Backlash     
I also use Dri-Deck in my anchor locker and it does a great job of protecting the gelcoat. I also coil my anchor rode (250' of 3/8" stranded) on the Dri-Deck and the Fortress and chain rest on this so there is almost no way the anchor can scratch the gelcoat.

Good idea on the rubber tubing on the anchor.

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