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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
Conquest 305 Reverse Cycle Air
|Author||Topic: Conquest 305 Reverse Cycle Air|
posted 12-14-2005 12:18 AM ET (US)
As I narrow in on a boat purchase, which is down to the Conquest 305 and the Pursuit 3070, I have one piece of data I have not been able to verify yet. Its around using the 305's factory reverse cycle air as a source of heat.
I live in the Seattle area, and this will be out on the sound. I have taken a sister of the 305 I am contemplating out, but she didn't have air/heat, so I still don't know how well using reverse cycle air will work in this enviornment. If anyone has any experience using the reverse cycle to heat the boat I would love to hear about it. Both on how well it keeps the the cabin warm and how well it overflows into the helm. Thanks, jerry
posted 12-14-2005 11:59 AM ET (US)
I would guess that you are shopping at Lake Union Sea Ray. I was the parts manager there for years. Eric Olson is the service manager, he started out as a rigger and worked his way up. Talk to him, I don't think he will steer you wrong. The same with your bottom paint, he may not agree with my suggestion for the Pettit that I answered to on your other post but having worked with Eric I would go with his suggestion.
posted 12-14-2005 01:03 PM ET (US)
Two Very nice products, lemee see, eeinee meenee miney moe,
with the Pursuit I would go.
posted 12-14-2005 09:52 PM ET (US)
I've got an 05' Conquest 305, but being a Florida boater, I have no idea how the heater works.
I love the boat. It's not without it's flaws, but for my family purposes as well as a great all around fishing platform, it's super. Fit and finish are great and I love the Verado's. (just don't run them over 4500 rpm's. The fuel burn will kill you) The DTS is awesome.
Enjoy the process. You can't lose with either boat. I don't regret my choice.
posted 12-14-2005 10:13 PM ET (US)
I grew up in florida in a 18 hydrasport CC. I envy you. It's taken me 7 years to acclimate to the NorthWest and figure out how to get back out on the water.
I still long for being able to just jump out of the boat and into the water any time of the year. Well those days are gone, and I find myself trying to figure out the best solution for a family of 5 out here to enjoy the Sound.
Its different up here but beautiful. HEAT is key. So is room. The 305, while it has quite a few shortcommings to the Pursuit, is shaping up to be the right compromise.
I am getting to the point where I have gotten all I am going to get out of the dealer and keep it a good deal for all involved, and want to make sure the reverse cycle really works for Heat.
posted 12-14-2005 11:34 PM ET (US)
Are we talking about a heat pump? high sierra
posted 12-15-2005 12:23 AM ET (US)
I guess you're not going to get a response from a 305 owner, so I'll tell you what I know. I've got a 28/295 with Cruiseair reverse cycle and I'm on the water in the San Juans and north from early June until late Sept. I only use my heat a few times a year, but find it heats the cabin very well. I haven't tried leaving the cabin door open to heat the cockpit, but I wouldn't expect too much. I find mine will raise the cabin temp from the low 50s to 70 in 1/2 hour or so. If you were fishing you could certainly keep the cabin warm for people to warm up, or as I do heat the cabin in the evening before bedtime. The 305 unit is mounted in the bow and may be different from my unit, but I would expect about the same performance.
posted 12-15-2005 12:28 AM ET (US)
Yes. Same idea as a heat pump. On a boat it takes heat out of the water via an exchanger and dissipates it into the boat. The boating industry seems to like to call it reverse cycle operation on the ac units. Most of what I have read is that it works well until the sea water temperature reaches around 38f degrees. Well the Sound around here can get down to 42f in February. Gut says that a diesel/karosene furnace is going to be way warmer, but I'd like to know first hand from someone who has run a heat pump/reverse cycle air.
posted 12-15-2005 12:32 AM ET (US)
Thanks Kemp. Just the type of feedback I was looking for.
By the way, this site is great. If I follow through I this thing I will sure to be a regular.
posted 12-15-2005 09:55 AM ET (US)
I'm sure that there's a point that the temp is low enough that it won't work. I'd check with a Cruisair dealer. I'm sure there a several in Seattle. Where do you plan to moor your boat?
posted 12-15-2005 11:25 AM ET (US)
I have a slip lined up in Elliot Bay(hense my other thread on bottom paint). I am on the wait list for Meydenbauer Bay as its really close to home (but I don't think I am going to want to deal with the locks). Depending on how we end up using it, I might also move it up to Anacourtes area. But for now it looks like Elliot Bay to get my legs and figure out what to do longer term.
posted 12-15-2005 03:36 PM ET (US)
We have a reverse air/heat unit on our larger boat (Tiara 36). It works quite well as long as the water temp isn't below about 45 degrees. As the water temp falls, the amount of heat that can be extracted from it goes way down.
At the dock, we keep a small ceramic heater plugged in and running in the cockpit at night. That small amount of heat virtually eliminates fogging and condensation on the canvas, vinyl seats, windshield glass, and eisenglass. Everything is nice and dry when you get up in the morning.
posted 12-18-2005 09:36 AM ET (US)
I have a 305 and boat in Mexico. No heat needed, gracias El Dio. There is a setting on the thermostat for heat so I guess the boat has it, but don't base your purchasing decision on my word.
Try writing Chuck Bennett at Boston Whaler, he knows everything.
The air conditioning output is quite robust. With a full canvas enclosure installed, you would get some heat at the helm. Moreover, with the genrator running, you would have sufficient output to run an electric space heater, for sure at 750 watts, probably at 1500, if you weren't running the microwave or making coffee on the stove. There are safe places to mount a space heater, you can get a small cube.
The diesel generator is cold blooded and won't like starting at below 50 degrees. The generator engine manual says there is a compression release that aids cold starting. I have squirted either in balky diesels but don't think that is a good idea below decks. I have not had to use the compression release, my generator starts fine at 70+
I love my 305. You will like yours if you buy one. Hank Ellwood
posted 12-20-2005 09:00 AM ET (US)
I have a 305 fitted with the factory reverse cycle airconditioning. Given that the boat is in Queensland Australia I am yet to run it on the heat cycle, only ever on the cooling cycle. Having owned quite a few various other brand boats I believe that the 305 cabin definately maintains a more stable temperature than any other boat I have owned. I definately think that the foam filled hull provides insulation and therefore eliminates extremes in temperatures. Perhaps other Whaler owners might agree with me. I have only used the airconditioning on few occasions and it worked very well so I would assume the same applies to heating. Love the boat, exceeded my expectations.
posted 12-27-2005 06:41 AM ET (US)
The heat/ac on my 28 Conquest works great. It gets cold in northern Florida so we rely on the reverse air alot.
posted 12-28-2005 07:38 AM ET (US)
My A/C just failed today. Don't know why but doesn't run for more than 2 minutes before shutting down.
posted 12-28-2005 08:38 AM ET (US)
Sideshow, check your sea strainer and hoses (assuming it has a raw water intake). I'll bet that either the strainer is plugged up or you have a hose crimped somewhere.
posted 12-28-2005 09:08 AM ET (US)
Sounds like your ac shut down because it wasn't getting cooling water. The air conditioner sea water pump is not self primiming. If it looses prime, for instance if it is pulled out of the water with the seacock open, you will have to reprime it, easiest is with a deck hose. Also cooling pump runs on auxillary breaker that and ac breaker both have to be on to run ac.
posted 01-03-2006 10:48 AM ET (US)
The boat is kept out of the water so it does sound like it needs to be primed. How do I do this? I have checked the seacock and the strainer, no problem there. I can see the pump however no idea how to prime it.
posted 01-04-2006 09:17 AM ET (US)
If the boat is pulled out of the water with the a/c sea cock open, all the water will run out of the system and it will loose prime. Water will stay in the system if the sea cock is closed when the boat is taken out of the water.
To reprime, put a hose on your salt water washdown with a nozzle with a small tip. Take off your a.c. cooling hose forward of the sea strainer. Put the washdown nozzle inside of the a.c. cooling hose. Turn on the a.c. and the auxillary a.c. switch which runs the pump. At the same time turn on the washdown. (You need an assistant to do all this.) When a.c. cooling water starts running out the drain forward on the starboard side, turn off the a.c. and the pump and then the washdown. Quickly, put your thumb over the a.c. hose and re attach it to the strainer. Check to see that it running properly by turning on the a.c. and the pump. A continuous small stream of water must run out of the drain.
I have seen the system reprimed, by taking off the hose at the air conditioner and sucking on the hose until it is full and then attaching it to the a.c. This is cumbersome, but if you are alone, it may be the only method possible.
posted 01-04-2006 05:05 PM ET (US)
Thanks for that. I checked to see if water was draining out of the forward Starboard drain yesterday and it wasn't. Therefore I think you are correct. I keep my 305 on an air lift and hence the problem. I had suspected the a/c pump had failed, however I will prime it today. When you say the a/c auxillary switch do you mean the ones on the main switch panel? Or is there another switch hidden somewhere?
posted 01-04-2006 06:10 PM ET (US)
The switch is labled ACC standing for accessory and is on the right side of the 120 volt panel below the breaker switch for air conditioning.
It is unlikely you burned out either the air conditioning unit or the pump. Without cooling water, the air conditioning will run about two minutes and shut down.
posted 01-07-2006 05:17 AM ET (US)
Pump needed priming, A/c works again!!! Thank You
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