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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
1998 OUTRAGE 20 Through-hull Drain
|Author||Topic: 1998 OUTRAGE 20 Through-hull Drain|
posted 04-13-2006 07:57 AM ET (US)
I'm in the process of replacing a through hull drain on my 1998 Outrage 20. The drain is for the foward storage compartment. It is a two-piece through hull and retaining nut. I ordered the parts directly from the Boston Whaler company. Does anybody have any tips on installing this? It appears that the two pieces just squeeze together. Thanks in advance.
posted 04-13-2006 10:20 AM ET (US)
I have the same boat so I am curious as to how it turns out for you. There are a bunch of those plastic through hulls on these boats that are probably getting close to needing replacement. When you get done it would be really cool if you documented the process. Where do you live? There may be someone near you that wants to help.
posted 04-14-2006 07:34 AM ET (US)
Phatwhaler thanks, I'm in NY. There are two pieces, that seem to just snap togeather, and compress. I'm hoping that there is just an easier way then just using force, and a rubber mallet. according to my BW dealer, the part is supposed to be a perfect fit, but it seems long to me. I will try and keep everyone posted, any tips will be appreciated.
posted 04-14-2006 03:06 PM ET (US)
With instructions and parts sent to me last summer I changed the thru-hull in the anchor locker on my new 04 nantucket.It wasn`t done properly at the factory and I had virtually pulled it apart with my fingers.
Its a two piece ribbed friction fit poly plastic fitting .On this style there is no retaining nut.Once fitted together the pieces are hard to pull apart.You measure the hull thickness and trim the fitting before installing. The male fitting goes on the outside of the hull. I put a bead of 3M 5200( there is also a fast cure version if you want to have the boat in the water sooner) on each side and pushed the two together. (I did need two people for this.)
One thing I did that made for a nice finish was I cut a round circle in a piece of paper just slightly larger than the flanges and taped it over the holes. When the excess glue squeezed out, I ran a finger around the flange,then pulled the tape off for a perfect clean finish.
The whaler rep told me that the plastic thru-hulls are as good as the brass/stainless ones though I don`t they don`t look as good. And as I think T. Clark explained to me the metal tubing thru-hulls have the advantage of being able to give a better flush finish on an angled surface by way of their installation.That depends on the location and model, so if you had the plastic ones to start then they`ll be good.
Do a search on thru-hulls .Derf had a series of pics on the metal ones.
posted 04-14-2006 08:56 PM ET (US)
kencvit- thanks for the info. So you did have to trim it. When I ordered the 2 piece set, I specifically asked if they needed to be cut to fit, and the answer was no. But dry fitting them it looks to long. I figured I would need to cut the hull side piece to fit. Thanks for the reassurance, I did not recieve instructions, just the 2 pieces.
posted 04-15-2006 01:13 AM ET (US)
I installed one of these on my Outrage 22 Cuddy, in the cuddy drain sump. It takes quite a bit of force to get the follower part to cinch up tight against the hull. I made a crude tool out of some scrap plywood that allowed my to pound the follower home with a rubber mallet while my wife held the the tube in place with her foot from inside the boat. The tool was simply some plywood scabbed together with a hole drilled in the center that was larger than the tube, but smaller than the follower. The outer layer of plywood was solid to receive blows from the rubber mallet. Use lots of 5200 and be sure to get a good seal.
posted 04-15-2006 01:19 AM ET (US)
I cut mine to finished length after installing it. I rough cut it about an inch long, before putting the follower on, then trimmed it flush once the follower was set.
posted 04-15-2006 08:07 AM ET (US)
You might check this, but I believe that 3M-5200 cures in contact with water.
posted 04-15-2006 09:22 AM ET (US)
I haven't had to undertake this (yet), but just out of curiosity, instead of pounding on the fitting could you use a long bolt/big washer combo to draw the fittings snug?
posted 04-15-2006 02:16 PM ET (US)
I was just about to suggest the same thing. I would make a plywood disk for each side with the center drilled for a long bolt. Put a fender washer on the outside of the plywood for the bolt to be tightened against. If you want them to self center on the fitting glue a smaller disk to larger one.
posted 04-15-2006 06:19 PM ET (US)
Rum,Dave14, Thats a real good idea.Makes it a one person job and tight fit. I`ll do that next time. Thanks
posted 04-22-2006 08:58 PM ET (US)
Thanks everyone for the helpful advice. I used rumrunners suggestion. I ended up taking a section of threaded rod, and a couple of large washers and nuts. I needed to cut the male end down about 1/2". I then placed both male and female ends in place, I ran the rod, through, and slowly tightened the washers against both ends and it came togeather perfectly. By doing it this way it became an easy one man job. I used 5200 to seal both sides inside and out. Phatwhaler, I tried taking pictures however it was a rainy evening, and the pics came out very dark. So you cannot really tell what is going on.
posted 04-24-2006 10:13 PM ET (US)
same boat as yours-glad to hear it went smoothly!
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