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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
Broken Bow rail joint on 2006 Montauk
|Author||Topic: Broken Bow rail joint on 2006 Montauk|
posted 05-31-2006 09:21 AM ET (US)
Just wanted to let you know how surprised to find that my bow rail broke at the front port side base where it is welded. I was really surprised to hear a rattle while driving on Monday and to find the weld had failed.
I called the dealer Gage marine. they are great. they offered to weld it as a temp. fix and then will order a whole new bow railing for me.
The bow rail and some trim peeling off of the center console are the only quality problems I have experienced so far.
I am still happy with the boat-
posted 06-01-2006 07:49 PM ET (US)
My bow rail on my 170 had a broken screw.
I will remove the bow rail during the off season and remove the broken screw. Its not a big issue.
Ken (170 montauk / 22 hydrasports vector wa)
posted 06-02-2006 12:41 PM ET (US)
Mine broke due to the weld.
I thought that the welded railing would be better than the old Montauk railings that had screws to hold the vertical railing to the base fitting. the old montauk railings would loosen up all the time.
Now I am not so sure.
|Tom W Clark||
posted 06-02-2006 12:56 PM ET (US)
The weld failure on your rail is the result of metal fatigue. The forward portion of those rails flexes quite a bit when running and the bending is the greatest at the first stanchions which is where it broke on your boat.
The bow rails of the MT 170 are a but under-designed in my opinion. It is almost as if there should be another stanchion at the bow.
posted 06-02-2006 12:59 PM ET (US)
The guys at Gage's Marine are stand up fellas. I'm glad they're dealers now, but I wish they weren't the only authorized dealer for the whole Chicago area, since they're 1. Not in the same state that Chicago resides in, and 2. not even on a lake that is accessed by many Chicagoans.
At the same time, I've spoken with them on several occasions and have nothing but positive experiences in those interactions...
I'm glad they're treating you right.
While many businesses treat something like that as an expensive way to do business (I doubt Whaler will reimburse them for the welding that they do, just for the failed rail), I submit that it's ultimately much less expensive to do business that way because if the customer is comfortable and happy with your business, he/she will come back.
It's good to know that those guys are that kind of business.
Unfortunately, off the top of my head as I write this, I can only think of about 10 businesses I know that are that way...and none of them, off the top of my head, are within the city limits....and two of them are in Canada!
posted 06-04-2006 04:48 AM ET (US)
Maybe this is a solution:
posted 06-05-2006 06:57 PM ET (US)
Now THAT'S the way Whaler should have done it, in my humble opinion.
Imko, would you be willing to share the list of materials and modification instructions for the added staunchion you installed? I for one would like to consider doing the same mod.
posted 06-06-2006 10:06 PM ET (US)
Thanks for posting your photos of your bow rail modification. I have had two classic montauks and they both had the center support post on the bow rail. I was VERY surprised to see that my boat came without one! It vibrates a lot and seems flimsy underway.
Whaler definately needs to incorporate the additional support brace on future models.
The dealer wants to weld the railing back together. I'll give it a try.
They will order an entire new railing if i am not happy.
Buckda-I checked out your web page photos of your boat. SHarp rig!
posted 06-07-2006 04:52 PM ET (US)
The bow rail on my 2003 Montauk 170 also broke at the base of the port side forward stanchion. I haven't contacted the dealer to have it fixed yet, so I don't know what they'll say about it being out of warranty. Hopefully they will still fix it, but even still I will have to drive over 2 hours each way for a total of nearly 9 hours of driving to drop off and pick it up. In addition to the time involved, the fuel to run my truck that far will be over $100. I sure wish there was a Whaler dealer in the Monterey Bay area.
posted 06-07-2006 05:00 PM ET (US)
While this may not make you feel better,
check out the stanchion spread on the 190 Montauk,
particularly those shots jimh attached on 06.04.06 at 12:38 am:
Perhaps this discussion should be forwarded to BW Designers...
posted 06-07-2006 09:02 PM ET (US)
It still puzzles me why Whaler abandoned what, at least in my opinion, was a clearly superior Montauk bow rail design somewhere between the "classic" and the "post-classic" eras.
Interestingly, I have a 2003 Whaler brochure that says:
"GRAB RAILS. Grab rails on competitors' designs are few and far between. Whaler owners are confident about taking their boats into conditions where others won't venture. So we make sure they have plenty of sturdy, well-positioned grab rails..."
The accompanying picture in the brochure compares the 4-screw rail mounting bases of the Whaler rails to the obviously inferior 3-screw mounts of "other boats".
Ironically, the very next model year, 2004, Whaler changed to a 3-screw mount. Little things like this are what I miss from my classic Montauk, compared to my '04 model. The '04 is a great boat, but the rails are no match at all for the ones on a classic. Anybody ever hear of a bow rail break on a classic?
posted 06-07-2006 09:11 PM ET (US)
yes, I have a 97 montauk that I busted the bow rail right at the T section.
Fixed under warrenty and it still broke later.
I believe from 1996 on the rails were all welded not peiced together.
ken (170 montauk / 22 hydrasports vector wa)
posted 06-13-2006 02:16 PM ET (US)
New bow rail pics:
you need: 1 plate t=3mm , and about 0,5 mtr seamless
Drill the holes from the clamp into the plate
Use sealing under the plate (i used Sikaflex 221 white)
Than weld the other side on the bow rail.
You must measure the dimension for yourself. No whaler
posted 06-14-2006 04:52 PM ET (US)
An excellent modification/improvement to the poorly designed 170 bow railing.
I'll wager that it does not vibrate as configured.
posted 06-26-2006 04:19 AM ET (US)
That's a great modification you made to the bow rail. Simple yet very professional. Thanks for sharing the information. It's now one of the things on my to-do-list.
posted 06-29-2006 12:27 AM ET (US)
posted 07-28-2006 04:11 PM ET (US)
IMKO, sorry to hijack the thread but I see what looks like a bench seat in your Montauk. True? If so, how did you fab it up or where did you source it? This may solve my wife's concerns about our 19mos-old not being able to sit w/us.
posted 07-28-2006 08:52 PM ET (US)
If you are talking about imko's boat (the only pix posted
in the thread), that's a standard Montauk 170 seat.
posted 07-29-2006 10:36 PM ET (US)
I am waiting for a new railing.
Gage marine is great!
Whaler however sent them the WRONG bow railing so now i have to wait for another.
Here are the other warranty repairs being taken care of when I take the boat in for the railing:
2)Back rest of cooler seat has been cut through by rod holders. new back rest is being installed
3)trim falling off of center console
4)Mercury binnacle control cover fell off and broke (second time) new one ordered.
I bought a new boat so that I would not have to bring it in to dealer for repairs. This boat has a lot of little things that have broken or fallen off that I would not expect to have happen to a high priced boat such as a Whaler.
The boat will be one year old on August 15th.
posted 09-04-2006 11:08 AM ET (US)
I just picked up my Montauk 170 with the new railing installed. It has been redesigned so that the forward most vertical rails have a greater angle so that they support the rail about 3" further towards the bow to reduce vibration. This is the railing new 170s will now have. I am glad that they gave me the improved railing.
posted 09-04-2006 11:32 AM ET (US)
Do you have any pictures? I'm very interested to see what it looks like. Thanks,
posted 09-12-2006 11:15 AM ET (US)
I will get them the next time I get the boat out of the storage building.
posted 09-12-2006 05:25 PM ET (US)
I've always thought that the bow rail on my 170 would be most functional if there was a 18" pass through above the bow cleat. Not a removable piece of railing, but a true pass through with each side of the bow railing ending in a stantion foot. I believe Arima boats has a similar set up. Although it may not be the most aestetically pleasing railing it would make it easier to anchor, enter from a beaching, and pull my shrimp pots.
posted 09-13-2006 01:41 AM ET (US)
My 2006 Montauk bow rail just broke in the same place. The dealer repaired it free of charge. Sounds like a common problem. He says other ones have broken too. I agree a walk through area in the front would be nice for easy access. Anyone do that to a Montauk?
posted 09-13-2006 02:42 PM ET (US)
Here's my solution for easy access to the bow of my 170 Montauk. :-)
posted 09-13-2006 04:37 PM ET (US)
My buddy Kawika has broken the rail on his 170 twice. First
time the dealer fixed it. Second time he took it off.
posted 09-21-2006 11:43 AM ET (US)
I have photos of new installed railing. If anyone wants to see photos please email me directly.
posted 11-15-2006 09:19 AM ET (US)
Anybody ever hear of a bow rail break on a classic?
My 2000 Montauk had major problems with its bow rail. The first was that Whaler cheaped out in the mounting screws. The factory installed #10 screws which sheared off at a regular interval. The fix for that was to replace them with 1/4"x20 screws tapped into the phenolic backing. This worked.
Because of all of the bouncing around the rail took when it sheared the screws, the weld where the bow vertical stantion met the horizontal rail let go.
Whaler ended up being nice enough to replace the rail in its entirety, at no cost to me.
As to the rail itself, I think it is a little too slender for the height. I still see a lot of vibration in the rail, even with the properly upsized mounting screws and always have the thought in my mind that someday it is going to go again.
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