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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
Adding Trailer Brakes
|Author||Topic: Adding Trailer Brakes|
posted 07-06-2006 07:43 PM ET (US)
I am looking for suggestions on a trailer with brakes for my Montauk 170. It came from BW with the standard one without brakes in 2002. But the more I think about it, the more I think having brakes on the trailer makes sense. Calling multiple outlets in town and no one is really interested in retrofitting the trailer with brakes.
Should I abandon the idea. I have even thought of buying a new trailer with brakes and then selling what I have. Am I being too cautious fellow whalers?
posted 07-06-2006 08:22 PM ET (US)
I ordered brakes as an option on my "03 Montauk 170, and it came with brakes. One day when ordering parts from EZ Loader I was asked for the SN and read it to the salesman. Part of the SN was the suffix "NB" which I was told means "no brakes". I would imagine that my BW dealer installed them locally. To go a little further- the brakes have a wash out port and I use it at the ramp after retrieving and again at home for 10/15 minutes again. This spring I went to move the boat from it's winter storage and it would not budge. Both brakes were a mass of rust. I purchased new assemblies (backing plates, shoes, springs - all assemled [$60. per side]) from Trailer Parts Superstore in Delaware and changed out the old ones. All you would have to do is run brake lines and change the coupler. Easy job! I do think that next time I'll go with Kodiak discs but I'm a little hesitant about the reversing solenoid. (You need one with discs, not drums)
posted 07-06-2006 08:24 PM ET (US)
PS: Are you being overly cautious? If you're towing with a Tahoe - maybe. I tow with a Jeep GC and feel that the few extra feet the trailer brakes give me may just make the difference some day.
posted 07-06-2006 08:54 PM ET (US)
Jimm Thank you.
I tow with a Pilot.
Looking into it more now. I really want it for saftey reasons. I will call the BW dealer in the am.
posted 07-06-2006 09:23 PM ET (US)
Check your trailer first before doing anything, if you have a flat plate with four holes at the corners , you can probably add brakes. If there is no plate, then you have to get new axles with the mounts, starting to get expensive. I think brakes on a 170 Montauk are a good idea, but they do rust in the salt!...Jack
posted 07-06-2006 09:29 PM ET (US)
Yes the championtrailer website mentions that you need what you mention.
I just wish BW had done this in the first place. Now it will cost an extra 600-800 to retrofit
posted 07-06-2006 09:30 PM ET (US)
Pull a wheel or crawl under the trailer and see if there is a flange with 4 holes on the outside of the axel to bolt the brake assembly onto.
posted 07-06-2006 09:54 PM ET (US)
Yes it does.
posted 07-06-2006 11:21 PM ET (US)
I would recommend electrically actuated disk brakes. They are easiest to install.
Something like this:
posted 07-07-2006 12:20 AM ET (US)
Electricity and water don't mix. We have enough trouble
keeping the trailer lights working without also trying
to keep the trailer brakes working.
And that URL to West Marine is for hydraulic brakes, not
posted 07-07-2006 07:45 AM ET (US)
I don't think there is a consensus here at all in favor of Tie Down brakes *or* Kodiak Brakes. I have read favorable remarks here about both (and I have made favorable remarks about both, having tried both and having been impressed by both.)
posted 07-07-2006 11:20 AM ET (US)
Hence, the sentence:
My trailer lights work just fine, and I leave them plugged in while they're in the water, also.
posted 07-07-2006 06:29 PM ET (US)
John, there have been reports of the Tie-Down stainless rotors warping due to heat, with CW members going to ventalated cast rotore instead. Chuck, electric and water don't mix but the actuator is mounted seperate from th ecoupler and is high and dry.....Jack
PS The "best value" but still best way to go is Stainless discs with a surge coupler
posted 07-07-2006 08:24 PM ET (US)
The BW dealer wants about a $1000 to do the brakes.
posted 07-07-2006 09:08 PM ET (US)
If that is so, that still does not make anything resembling a concensus in favor of Kodiak brakes (which was my stated point, and continues to be my point). Tie Down Engineering makes vented rotor brakes also, as well as stainless rotor brakes. And, for what it is worth, I ran many thousands of miles, over mountains and at occasional warp speeds with my Tie Down stainless rotor brakes, and they never warped on me. I don't happen to think that constitutes a concensus for Tie Downs though. When my Tie downs wore out, I installed Kodiaks out of curiosity; I am running on those Kodiaks now and they also seem to work satisfactorily.
They seem both to be good companies with good brakes of various types; it may be one particular type of brake that one or the other company sells is not the best choice for some given individuals and/or the type of trailering they do.
posted 07-07-2006 09:39 PM ET (US)
That price seems about right. Just had my actuator, brake lines, drums, backing plates, bearings, and bearing buddies replaced, $890.
posted 07-07-2006 11:40 PM ET (US)
I would like to hear comments from people with first-hand experience with UFP brakes and the UFP brake actuator. I am seeing this UFP system used on many trailers sold as part of boat/trailer packages on rather high-end boats. It is a very interesting actuator which is built right into the trailer's main channel structure, rather than bolted on top of the main channel or tongue of the trailer.
posted 07-08-2006 09:36 AM ET (US)
"gorji posted 07-07-2006 08:24 PM ET (US)
The BW dealer wants about a $1000 to do the brakes. "
Gorji, as stated above - I got the drum/back plates assembly for $60 a side "on sale". A new actuator was $99.,brake lines are about $100. What am I missing here? The total price I added seems too low. No matter, it's a very easy job. If need be roll under a trailer that already has brakes and do it step by step. The Championtrailers.com site has a technical section to answer any questions you may have. Either way keep the brakes flushed.
KINGFISH - do you boat/trailker in fresh or salt water?
posted 07-08-2006 10:34 AM ET (US)
Primarily in fresh water, but once or twice a year (except this year) in salt water. The salt water trips are in excess of 1000 miles each way, while the fresh water runs are anywhere from 60 miles to 500 miles each way. I try to rinse all aspects of the trailer as well as I can with fresh water as soon as possible after a salt water dunking.
posted 07-08-2006 11:07 AM ET (US)
If your axle has the square 4-hole flange as seen here http://tinyurl.com/z4bow then you do not have to replace your axle to install brakes.
Champion Trailer Parts http://www.championtrailers.com/ has the Tie Down Engineering vented-rotor disc brake kits (Part #1129) for $420. This is kit contains everything you would need to convert your trailer to disc brakes. They also have the Tie Down Engineering SS rotor disc brake kits for the same price.
Last summer I replaced my SS rotor disc brakes with the vented-rotor disc brakes. IMO, the vented-rotor disc brakes are far superior to the SS rotor disc brakes. The vented-rotor brakes use much larger and thicker brake pads (available at any GM dealer or auto parts supplier) and the vented-rotors are much beefier (much like on your car) than the thin SS rotors. I have been very pleased with these brakes.
I concur with kingfish that I don't believe there is a consensus here that favors either Tie Down or Kodiak brakes. I believe the Kodiaks are the "Cadillac" of the disc brake manufacturers and offer various alloys in the different components offered - all at a premium price.
My SS rotor disc brakes worked fine and failed only because of neglect (stupidity) on my part - the inner pads wore down to the backing plates while the outer pads still looked fine. All brakes (car or trailer) need periodic inspection and maintenance.
The conversion to disc brakes is an easy job if you have any mechanical ability and the right tools.
posted 07-08-2006 11:33 AM ET (US)
I do not like my stock trailer that came with my 2004 Montauk. You have to realize that the stock trailer is part of the "value pricing" that is the cheap part of the Boston Whaler package.
Your trailer is 4 years old. Installing $1000 brakes on your trailer is like putting lipstick on a pig. You still have a pig.
Look into getting a new Continental or Pacific trailer.
Just my 2 cents.
posted 07-08-2006 06:34 PM ET (US)
I appreciate the very useful points and hints regarding my issue. When I initially posted this topic, I knew it was going to be a hot topic. Perhaps the CW forum should contain an area regarding trailer, and other support equipment for out whalers.
posted 07-08-2006 07:07 PM ET (US)
If you've got the EZ Loader:
posted 07-08-2006 07:08 PM ET (US)
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