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Author Topic:   Trailering & Motor Support
rbm posted 07-24-2006 06:26 PM ET (US)   Profile for rbm   Send Email to rbm  
I've a 2006 150Sport. Ideas/pictures/comments on how to arrange an outboard motor support on the stock trailer and a 60 HP Mercury. The rear rail of the trailer is inboard of the transom..I cannot find an aftermarket motor support that works.
bsmotril posted 07-24-2006 06:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
This curved transom saver would probably work: indexId=cat420011&navAction=push&navCount=1&cmCat=MainCatcat21276& parentType=index&parentId=cat420011&id=0001894


RFK posted 07-24-2006 07:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for RFK  Send Email to RFK     
Funny you should ask. I have a new trailer for my 16SL and the only negative point was the engine support needed to be attached to a cross member which meant kneeling and detaching it. I found My-Wedge which is a rubber piece which goes around the piston arm of the tilt. It seems to be working well. I am going to Door County and Hayward Wisc. in several weeks so I will get a more experince with it.

My-Wedge has a website.

RFK posted 07-24-2006 07:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for RFK  Send Email to RFK     
More correctly it is Some other CWers are using it and finding it satisfactory. The company is Raveling OutdoorS.
swist posted 07-25-2006 07:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for swist  Send Email to swist     
I would note in some other threads on this subject that many people just use the trailer lock on the engine. Yes the manual says not to do it, but my local dealer (a high-volume sales/service place with a good reputation) says he's never seen a transom failure on a Whaler from not using a trailer support. I would note however that Whalers have prety beefy transoms compared with some boats.
bigjohn1 posted 07-25-2006 08:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for bigjohn1  Send Email to bigjohn1     
rbm, your trailer is not unique in its inability to mount up with a transom saver. If you are dead-set on going with a transom saver, you'll need to buy a few extra parts and bolt/weld them onto the rear rail (crossmember) of your trailer. I have done this a few times on different trailers and it usually only involves buying a bow roller and U-bolt clamps to affix that roller to the rearmost trailer crossmember. I'm sure there are better or more elaborate methods but a bow roller bolted/welded to the rear crossmember works just fine. If that still will not get close enough to the end of the transom saver, you might consider a few options:

1. Moving your boat further forward on the trailer (by moving the wench stand up)
2. Look through the trailer parts at a local dealer and buy appropriate length brackets to give that bow roller extra standoff distance from the trailer's rear crossmember.
3. Have a welding shop fabricate a bracket that places this roller at the correct distance rearward from the crossmember.

If it were me, I'd say to heck with all that and just buy a my-wedge and use that.

mark9199 posted 07-25-2006 08:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for mark9199  Send Email to mark9199     

I also vote for the my-wedge. I've got the same boat/motor/trailer as you and had the same problem trying to find a motor support to fit my trailer. I finally decided to try the my-wedge and it is working well. It's easy to put on and take off and supports the motor.


bsmotril posted 07-25-2006 03:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
On an old OMC V4 for instance, the tilt lock is two pretty heavy metal arms that support both sides of the motor. On a newer merc, it is a very thin metal arm on one side only. You can easily bend the Merc arm by hand. I would not trust it to a bouncing motor. What you say is totally dependant on the particular motor in question. BillS
bluewaterpirate posted 07-25-2006 04:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for bluewaterpirate  Send Email to bluewaterpirate     
Attwood Corporation makes a Lock & Stow transom saver specifically for the Opti 200 - 225. It is nicely designed and easy to use. I use one & it works as advertized.
Too bad they don't make them for other motors.



sportroyalwulf posted 07-25-2006 04:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for sportroyalwulf  Send Email to sportroyalwulf     
I use a support on my 2003 150 Sport that is exactly like the Cabelas model. I needed to drill one hole in the plate that bolts to the trailer. The shop (traverse bay marine) was kind enought to drill the hole using a heavy duty drill press. A ss bolt, nut and washer was all that was needed. Have used it to trailer 400 plus miles w/o problem.
Tom W Clark posted 07-25-2006 08:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
It's funny this topic should come up now. At the recent PNW Rendezvous I saw a m-ywedge for the first time and was very impressed by this simple, effective solution to the problem of supporting a Mercury outboard.

It is a shame my birthday is so far away because a pair of these would make a GREAT gift to me for my twin Mercury 150s!

Barney posted 07-25-2006 08:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for Barney  Send Email to Barney     
I use a wooden block, actually 4x4 scrap, two chunks nailed together side to side, holes drilled with a spade bit to fit the four "stick outs" on the outboard bracket. I'm sure that is very clear! Jim
gorji posted 07-26-2006 09:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for gorji  Send Email to gorji     
I'm sorry for being ignorant but is the transom "saver" really necessary on our whalers? Aren't the boats designed to take trailering?
Matthew posted 07-26-2006 09:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Matthew  Send Email to Matthew     
I have never used anything but the tilt lock, and have never had a problem; but have never had any heavyweights with a 1981 2 stroke 70 hp OMC and a 2002 2 stroke 90 hp Mercury.
dmeswi posted 07-27-2006 10:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for dmeswi  Send Email to dmeswi     
I have a 130 sport with a 40 hp motor. I just trim the motor up and put a 2x4 between the motor bracket and the mounting bracket on the boat. I then let the motor down on the 2x4 and secure the 2x4 by wrapping a bungee cord around it and hookin it to the lifting eyes.

This way I have plenty of road clearance and don't have to rely on the hydraulics to hold the motor up while trailering.


Boboe posted 07-29-2006 08:15 AM ET (US)     Profile for Boboe  Send Email to Boboe     
When I asked my BW dealer about trailering, he sold me a device very similar to the my wedge device and said it is what is recommended. The little red piece of plastic cost me about $24. Simple to use and I assume it's doing the job.
highanddry posted 07-31-2006 03:02 AM ET (US)     Profile for highanddry  Send Email to highanddry     
I stick a sawed off 2X4 between the motor and the bracket. We have done this since I was a child with no problems.
rbm posted 07-31-2006 11:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for rbm  Send Email to rbm     
Thanks for all the feedback, recommendations, and ideas.
I like the EPDM wedge idea. Simple, no modifications to trailer required. Simple friction fit and very small item. I let ya'll how it works later on
disneycaber posted 08-01-2006 02:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for disneycaber  Send Email to disneycaber     

disneycaber posted 08-01-2006 02:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for disneycaber  Send Email to disneycaber     
Hi again,

Came late to this post but for what it's worth I have a 2005 150 Sport with a 60hp Mercury BigFoot. I found that the motor was being tossed around too much for my comfort and I bought the angled, frame mounted support from Cabellas that a previous poster sugested.
It required no trailer modification as I just added the bracket provided to the center of the trailer's crossmember via the bolt that is already there. The motor is now solidly held even on the roughest roads.

RFK posted 08-05-2006 08:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for RFK  Send Email to RFK     
One additional comment on the wedge. I initially ordered the wedge that the company has for Yamaha 90s. They designed it to be put on the port support for the tilt. After putting it on I did not like supporting the motor from one side. I asked about it and the folks at Ravelling traded me for a universal wedge.

I recommend you skip their "specialty" wedges and just order the universal.

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