Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
posted 10-16-2006 10:02 AM ET (US)
What steps do you go through when winterizing your Whaler? This is my first year with this boat and want to make sure I don't miss anything. I called the dealer and at 37 a foot, paying them to do it was a little out of the question. I have winterized my previous boats. But the whaler is larger and has more to it. BTW it is a 240outrage with a opti on the back.
posted 10-16-2006 10:56 AM ET (US)
Depends on where you are located. For me, winterizing means I add Stabile to the fuel because instead of using the boat every week, it may be 2-3 weeks between uses.
For an Opti, you don't want to spray anything inside the air plenum because of the throttle position sensor located there. Add Stabile to the fuel tank, top off the fuel tank, then run the motors for a good 15-20 minutes to get the stabile up into the fuel system. A quicker way of doing this is to remove and empty the under cowl spin on fuel filter, dump the fuel inside, then refill the filter with a mix of stabile and fuel before you run the motor. After running, drain the motors completely for a good 15 minutes with them fully trimmed in as far as they will go to remove all water from the leg and pump. Tilt them up, remove the props, grease the splines, and cover the prop shaft/exhaust outlet with a plastic bag that will last through the winter. You want to keep water out of the exhuast outlet so it won't freeze and expand. If you can store the boats with the motors trimmed full down, you can bypass this. Now grease the tilt tube, steering tube, and tilt support bracket zercs. Remove the spark plugs, and spray fogging oil into the spark plug holes. Turn the motor over by hand, or with the starter 5 revs or so to distribute the oil inside the cylinders. If you use the starter, ground out the plug wires first. Replace the plugs finger tight since you will repeat this part in the spring when you start it the first time. Now is also a good time to drain and replace the lower unit lube with fresh oil. That's it for the motor. I'll leave the rest of the boat to others since I don't have much of a winter in South central Texas to reference. BillS
posted 10-16-2006 12:29 PM ET (US)
Winterizing the boat and motor are separate topics.
posted 10-17-2006 12:22 PM ET (US)
I am ok with the motor, I am more concerned with the boat. I assume i need to put antifreeze in the fresh water, but do I need to blow anything out? remove anything?
BTW I live in the northeast
posted 10-17-2006 12:57 PM ET (US)
I am all done with my winterization.
Yup, put those sweatshirts on board last weekend just in case. We did not use them. And removed the snorkel gear, I'll have to put that back on if I go the springs though...hummm?
Good luck with that winter thing.
posted 10-17-2006 01:48 PM ET (US)
You do have to make sure to winterize the boat systems that circulate water through them.
Fish box pumpouts
Raw water washdown: I remove the hose off the seacock, place a funnel in it and pour non toxic water system antifreeze in the funnel. Run the washdown pump until the antifreeze comes out for a while, the color is solid and not diluted.
Fish box pumouts: I just pour a couple of gallons of non toxic water system antifreeze in the fishboxes and run the pump until the fishbox is empty.
Fresh water system: Run all the fresh water out via the pump, put a gallon or two of the non toxic antifreeze in the tank and run it dry to circulate the antifreeze through the system.
Bilge pump: pull plug, remove water from bilge, replace plug, dump a gallon in, run bilge pump until bilge is clear, remove hull plug.
Livewells will also need attention.
I pour a little antifreeze in my cockpit deck drains also.
That is what I do on my 1997 21 Outrage, I live in New Jersey.
posted 10-20-2006 02:02 PM ET (US)
Thanks Rich just what I was looking for.
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.