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Author Topic:   Rage 15 hull ride

kamie posted 12-03-2006 06:07 PM ET (US)
I know all about the jet problems, what I am interested in is how the hull rides compared to say a dauntless 15 or compared to the older style hulls?
Is the boat stable when drifting. How does it behave in a chop, does it pound?
I am considering looking for a Rage, rather than a 13 or 15 because I like the seating arrangement of the rage. The use would be on shallow creeks and occasionally out to the river, but not often.
Thanks

madfinnhockey posted 12-04-2006 10:40 AM ET (US)
My Rage 15 is my first whaler, so I can't compare it to any others, but I did have a Wellcraft 18 Fisherman, deep vee, and the Rage is a bit smoother ride, didn't seem to pound nearly as much as the Wellcraft, which was a bit heavier, especially with 50 gal of fuel and a 150 on it.
where2 posted 12-04-2006 11:10 PM ET (US)
Come visit me in January. We'll put my 15_Sport and the 15_Rage in the water and you can drive them back to back, and head to head...
I'd say the Rage is marginally better in a chop, but mainly because you have a backrest and a thicker cushioned seat. If you're under 6' tall, you can run the Rage standing up, which improves rough water comfort drastically. In rough water with the 15_Sport, I usually just sit on the floor.
At rest, they are about the same stability. The Rage is slightly beamier, which should add stability, but its difficult to notice on such a small boat. I like the ability to adjust trim on the outboard powered hull.
An interesting quirk of the Rage hull with the 115Hp Turbojet. It porpoises through much of the RPM range. I just obtained a spare "ride plate", so I can begin trying to modify it to reduce or eliminate the porpoise. I intend to put wedge on the ride plate to act as a trim tab.
sraab928 posted 12-05-2006 06:19 AM ET (US)
I cannot comment on the ride as I have only ever been on the 15 Rage. I have never been on a standard 15. I do notice that when we are crabbing or fishing that putting two to three people on one side of the boat really gets it to lean. The rubrail has come pretty close to the water. I always thought/heard that the standard 15 was pretty stable at rest. Based on Where2's response maybe I am wrong. Since he has both boats Im sure he would be the best judge.
kamie posted 12-05-2006 05:54 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the info. I like the rage for the backrest and the cushions for comfort. Nice to know about the porposing issues with the 115. I was mainly considering this for a project boat, probably to do a jet to outboard conversion. Unless the right one falls in my lap, this project is way down on the list.
where2 posted 12-05-2006 09:20 PM ET (US)
One additional note about the Rage, the side scuppers tend to take on water when you are at rest and you step to the edge of the boat. I've heard you can fit the ball stoping scupper covers to the scuppers, but I haven't tried it.
The flip side is that the freeboard is much lower in the Classic. So, sitting at rest, with waves approaching from the side of the boat will be more alarming.
Running into a head sea at idle speed in the Rage, I find I get more spray over the bow than I think I do in the Classic. I think the smirk on the classic hull takes more spray and directs it down out of the way.
BADAZGN posted 12-05-2006 09:26 PM ET (US)
where2
I have a question. Did they change the hull design of the smaller Rages through the years?
I was curious if the earlier years had the AccuTrack hull deign as well.
I was wondering if that would make a differance as far as the spray is concerned.
Thanks,
Matthew
sraab928 posted 12-06-2006 06:23 AM ET (US)
Mark,
Do not put on the ball type scupper covers. My Rage had them - they worked ok at rest keeping the water out. To be honest not much better than the flap type. The problem with them on the Rage is when you are under power, especially in a chop, then tend to spray the heck out of people sitting on either side of you. That plastic cone sticking out tends to grab the water and it shots inside through the scupper hole. I had to take mine off to get my wife to agree to go back on the boat. They really made it quite unpleasant. Now of course my static trim might be a bit different with the outboard but I think the result in choppy water will be the same. Just my .02
BOB KEMMLER JR posted 12-06-2006 06:38 PM ET (US)
I never really noticed that Scott,but it makes sense.I had a Rage and currently have a Mischief 15.I thought the Rage took a chop really nice,but i have to say the same about my Mischief 15 too.I think the Mischief might ride a little better than a regular 15 due to the cushy seats and the seat placement.Both are MUCH better than our 1969 13 sport
sraab928 posted 12-06-2006 07:26 PM ET (US)
Bob,
I thought the first time out it was just a fluke - but every time you got in a chop or boat wake the water would shoot in those things... crazy stuff. Im very happy to be rid of them. Still chomping at the bit to get my new home done so I can start the next crazy Rage project...
where2 posted 12-06-2006 08:45 PM ET (US)
I always wondered about the water issue with those things hanging out the side of the boat... There's $20 I saved. (ought to do it right, plumb the drains through the transom...).
My Rage current Rage project with Scott's spare parts is far less intensive than Scott's next project. I'm trying to determine exactly how much wedge needs to be added to the ride plate to stop the porpoise problem. I gotta finish building my floating dock before 1/1/07.
sraab928 posted 12-07-2006 07:18 AM ET (US)
My new Rage project will probably do just that - drain through the transom. I plan on building a completely one of a kind ride.
You Florida guys make me jealous.. Dock building in December... Yesterday at the bus stop with my Daughter at 6:30 it was 28 degrees... UGH!
kamie posted 12-08-2006 09:36 AM ET (US)
I agree, the high will be in the 30's with 20 MPH winds. I am hoping that the weekend will break 50 so I can get out and work on the Outrage. Thanks for all the good info on a rage project, I am glad there are a few among the crowd that have worked on these unique Whalers.
PS, if you have sent me an email on a rage project boat, my email program ate my email. Feel free to send it back to me. I do warn you, this project is down the road for me, first is putting a 150HP E-Tec on my 18 Outrage
sraab928 posted 12-10-2006 08:28 PM ET (US)
Kamie, I resent the email this evening. Let me know if you got it.
Scott
kamie posted 12-11-2006 08:36 PM ET (US)
Scott,
got them. Thanks
ktm1 posted 01-17-2007 08:24 PM ET (US)
Where2
How much fuel should I expect to be burning pulling the kids around tubing?
Love the Rage layout, I haven't had it in the water yet.
Can,t wait till spring!
Thank
Keith
where2 posted 01-19-2007 11:09 PM ET (US)
Rage pulling tubes and hydroslides: 4 gallons per hour. It's a thirsty engine with that jet drive. I still marvel that I can ski on roughly 2/3 the fuel with my 15_Sport. My usual ski trip lasts from 8AM until noon (90 minutes of that is at idle in my canals). I can do that on a little over 6 gallons in the Sport, or about half that 23 gallon tank in the Rage.
Still pondering the best way to add the wedge to the ride plate.
Dock building has been going slow these past few weekends. So, I haven't had much opportunity to put the winter boat (The Rage) in the water. (I did get a permit extension) The dock is looking nice though, some things pay to take your time on...
ktm1 posted 01-20-2007 12:19 AM ET (US)
Where2
Thanks for the info. Should I antisipate the overheating that seems to be common? I've been following all the Rage talk, very interesting projects. The outboard is slick and looks great.
I picked up the Rage because of the jet drive and the safty of no prop around the kids. I hope I didn't make a mistake. This is my first jet driven boat and very excited about it.
Thanks again,
Keith
where2 posted 01-20-2007 06:42 PM ET (US)
Certainly anticipate the overheating, even expect it. I'm still trying to determine a feasible way to monitor the head temperatures on both heads simultaneously while running. The new Lowrance multi-function gauge has the ability to display two temperature readings at the same time, but their sensors are not suitable for the temperature range we need to measure head temps. When my overheat alarm goes off, it's generally the "right" head as you face the engine compartment with it open, looking at the engine. Not sure if the sender is getting lame, or what the reasoning is as to why this head in particular overheats.
I carry my handy Radio Shack non-contact IR thermometer with me when I run the rage. I can tell which head is overheating by pointing it at the head and comparing the temperature of the two. They really shouldn't run above 163°F under normal circumstances.
ktm1 posted 01-21-2007 09:19 PM ET (US)
What is the reason for the overheating?
Poor water circulation? Constantly running wide open?
I understand that the water circulation is incorperated into the jet pump. Is there any way to correct this problem. I'm sure you have played with the thermostats. How long should I expect to run before overheating?
Did OMC ever address this problem? My motor is a fresh rebuild, less than 10 hrs on it. How much life should I expect out of it? The pump was also rebuilt, maybe that will help with the overheating.
Thanks
Keith
where2 posted 01-21-2007 10:10 PM ET (US)
Fresh engine rebuild, fresh pump rebuild, I know about both of those. I only have ~34 to 40 hours on my own Rage since the engine rebuild. (can't remember what the hour meter said last time I used the boat)
The overheating is odd. I've gotten it at idle twice. I got it after I stopped the engine to pickup a skier (you learn to shut the engine off to keep from sucking up your rope while you're drifting with the wind in neutral). When you shut the engine off, you drain the water out of a good portion of the engine which doesn't help the cooling aspect. I've gotten it after I hit a patch of sargasso weed, and stopped the engine to clear the intake grate of the weed jam. (she started sounding when I restarted the engine).
I replaced the thermostats just before the engine rebuild. I really haven't tracked down what the main issue is in cooling. I've got a strainer to catch sea weed and sand. I don't generally catch very much of either on most outings.
A couple of the other Rage owners have completely removed their thermostats with the thought that more cooling water everywhere is better. I have not. My thermostats and poppet valves are all still in place. I've even considered installing some sort of auxiliary cooling pump to circulate cooling water when the engine is not running to keep from having to sit for 30 minutes while the engine transfers it's excess heat to the air.
The one thing I have not been able to check is whether my overpressure bypass valve in the impeller assembly is stuck open. There is a bypass valve that is supposed to open only if you are making more than 20psi of pressure in the cooling system. My water pressure gauge rarely shows more than 15psi, maybe 20-22 if I am running wide open. At idle, it shows 0-2psi which seems a little weak if you ask me. Unfortnately, I have not found anyone else with a pressure gauge on their Rage to compare it to.
ktm1 posted 01-23-2007 09:59 PM ET (US)
Where2
What I realy need is a shop manual for this engine.
I don't know how the pump assembly works. From what I've heard the jet pump is allways "engaged", allowing water to circulate to the motor. Low idle = low cooling pressure, worn pump also means low water pressure.
Any idea where I might find a manual. I posted a request on this site and also checked Ebay. I saw one for sale before I owned the boat. Can't remember where.
Thanks Keith
where2 posted 01-23-2007 11:02 PM ET (US)
The OMC Turbojet Service Manual is occasionally offered on Ebay. You might also check with Lisa at http://www.turbojetmarineproducts.com/home.htm
I've dealt with them, they are legit, but you won't find a phone number on their website because they actually do other things to make a living during the day. Use their "Contact Us" page, they'll get back to you.
Yes, the impeller is always engaged and spinning if the engine is running and the drive is latched closed. Low speed does = low water pressure. I just don't know how low is acceptable. Obviously, if the O-ring going into the transom on the cooling water plumbing section leaks, you're losing cooling water pressure.
The impeller assembly is really not all that complicated when you disassemble it. I had mine apart last winter to replace the bearings inside it.
Here's some HUGE photos of what it looks like disassembled:
Remove the 4 allen head screws (6mm) to get this chunk off: http://www.tfn.net/~wendtm/Nozzle%20Side%20View.JPG
Remove the 3 smaller metric allen screws to get this off:
http://www.tfn.net/~wendtm/Stock%20Bearing%20Cone.JPG
Put a socket on the large hex:
http://www.tfn.net/~wendtm/ Impeller%20Assembly%20Quarter%20View%20wo%20Cone.JPG
Find some way to hold this still:
[URL]http://www.tfn.net/~wendtm/Stock OMC Impeller.JPG[/URL] (I put it face down on a piece of sacrificial plywood, and used an air wrench on the hex bolt). Your objective is to get to this point:
[URL]http://www.tfn.net/~wendtm/Impeller Assembly wo Impeller Closeup.JPG[/URL]
At this stage, you can see the first of two seals that keep the water out of the bearings. There's also an O-ring around that center shaft, inside the sleeve bushing. With the central bolt out, and the seals removed, pressing the bearings out is a little bit of a challenge, but any good machine shop should be able to do it no problem in just under an hour. I did it in my garage without a bearing puller or press. I had to get creative with some scrap metal and a long bolt with washers to use as a puller. (flat side the washers so they fit through the center of the bearing, but allow you to flat stack them to pull against).
If I keep this up, I'll just need to write a How-To...
ktm1 posted 01-26-2007 11:18 PM ET (US)
Where2
Thanks for the info. Spoke with a BW dealer today. Shop manual $72.00, Seems a little high. Also found a fresh water motor flush.
What do you think about the after market performance kit for $ 450.00? I don't know if is worth it.
Thanks
Keith
BOB KEMMLER JR posted 01-27-2007 07:19 PM ET (US)
Has anyone tried to swap a 140 v4 powerhead in when the 115 takes a crap on them?That along with the performance upgrades to the impellar and grate might make the OMc Rages run fairly quick.You can even upgrade those omc v4's to around 180-220 hp with aftermarket builders.
where2 posted 01-27-2007 10:53 PM ET (US)
Nick, My block was not far enough gone to benefit from scrapping it in favor of a 140Hp block...
As for the Performance Kit, someone had to be the guinea pig, I was it. If I could get my intake grate off, I'd really be able to tell you how much difference it makes. As it is, I have the spacer installed at the transom, and the different nozzle after the impeller assembly, but I cannot change out the intake grate to the higher flow unit. (might just hog mine out with a dremel one day! I have the real high performance unit to compare it to.). If anyone has suggestions on getting those Allen bolts out, I'm listening.
It seems to have slightly better hole shot, but nothing drastically better. Obviously, trying to gulp more water and having a restrictive screen in front of the suction is an issue. It seems to top out at 34mph on the GPS, but it will never keep up with the new 3 seater Kawasaki Jet Ski with 250hp... (unless you are in a 25mph speed limit area!)
$72 for the service manual sounds high, but that's only equivalent to 1 hour of shop time in my area. So, in that respect, it's cheap at $72 if it simply shows me how to change the gear lube. It will pay for itself if you can replace the bearings in the impeller housing yourself using it, which is what I did...

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Author	Topic: Rage 15 hull ride
kamie	posted 12-03-2006 06:07 PM ET (US) I know all about the jet problems, what I am interested in is how the hull rides compared to say a dauntless 15 or compared to the older style hulls? Is the boat stable when drifting. How does it behave in a chop, does it pound? I am considering looking for a Rage, rather than a 13 or 15 because I like the seating arrangement of the rage. The use would be on shallow creeks and occasionally out to the river, but not often. Thanks
madfinnhockey	posted 12-04-2006 10:40 AM ET (US) My Rage 15 is my first whaler, so I can't compare it to any others, but I did have a Wellcraft 18 Fisherman, deep vee, and the Rage is a bit smoother ride, didn't seem to pound nearly as much as the Wellcraft, which was a bit heavier, especially with 50 gal of fuel and a 150 on it.
where2	posted 12-04-2006 11:10 PM ET (US) Come visit me in January. We'll put my 15_Sport and the 15_Rage in the water and you can drive them back to back, and head to head... I'd say the Rage is marginally better in a chop, but mainly because you have a backrest and a thicker cushioned seat. If you're under 6' tall, you can run the Rage standing up, which improves rough water comfort drastically. In rough water with the 15_Sport, I usually just sit on the floor. At rest, they are about the same stability. The Rage is slightly beamier, which should add stability, but its difficult to notice on such a small boat. I like the ability to adjust trim on the outboard powered hull. An interesting quirk of the Rage hull with the 115Hp Turbojet. It porpoises through much of the RPM range. I just obtained a spare "ride plate", so I can begin trying to modify it to reduce or eliminate the porpoise. I intend to put wedge on the ride plate to act as a trim tab.
sraab928	posted 12-05-2006 06:19 AM ET (US) I cannot comment on the ride as I have only ever been on the 15 Rage. I have never been on a standard 15. I do notice that when we are crabbing or fishing that putting two to three people on one side of the boat really gets it to lean. The rubrail has come pretty close to the water. I always thought/heard that the standard 15 was pretty stable at rest. Based on Where2's response maybe I am wrong. Since he has both boats Im sure he would be the best judge.
kamie	posted 12-05-2006 05:54 PM ET (US) Thanks for the info. I like the rage for the backrest and the cushions for comfort. Nice to know about the porposing issues with the 115. I was mainly considering this for a project boat, probably to do a jet to outboard conversion. Unless the right one falls in my lap, this project is way down on the list.
where2	posted 12-05-2006 09:20 PM ET (US) One additional note about the Rage, the side scuppers tend to take on water when you are at rest and you step to the edge of the boat. I've heard you can fit the ball stoping scupper covers to the scuppers, but I haven't tried it. The flip side is that the freeboard is much lower in the Classic. So, sitting at rest, with waves approaching from the side of the boat will be more alarming. Running into a head sea at idle speed in the Rage, I find I get more spray over the bow than I think I do in the Classic. I think the smirk on the classic hull takes more spray and directs it down out of the way.
BADAZGN	posted 12-05-2006 09:26 PM ET (US) where2 I have a question. Did they change the hull design of the smaller Rages through the years? I was curious if the earlier years had the AccuTrack hull deign as well. I was wondering if that would make a differance as far as the spray is concerned. Thanks, Matthew
sraab928	posted 12-06-2006 06:23 AM ET (US) Mark, Do not put on the ball type scupper covers. My Rage had them - they worked ok at rest keeping the water out. To be honest not much better than the flap type. The problem with them on the Rage is when you are under power, especially in a chop, then tend to spray the heck out of people sitting on either side of you. That plastic cone sticking out tends to grab the water and it shots inside through the scupper hole. I had to take mine off to get my wife to agree to go back on the boat. They really made it quite unpleasant. Now of course my static trim might be a bit different with the outboard but I think the result in choppy water will be the same. Just my .02
BOB KEMMLER JR	posted 12-06-2006 06:38 PM ET (US) I never really noticed that Scott,but it makes sense.I had a Rage and currently have a Mischief 15.I thought the Rage took a chop really nice,but i have to say the same about my Mischief 15 too.I think the Mischief might ride a little better than a regular 15 due to the cushy seats and the seat placement.Both are MUCH better than our 1969 13 sport
sraab928	posted 12-06-2006 07:26 PM ET (US) Bob, I thought the first time out it was just a fluke - but every time you got in a chop or boat wake the water would shoot in those things... crazy stuff. Im very happy to be rid of them. Still chomping at the bit to get my new home done so I can start the next crazy Rage project...
where2	posted 12-06-2006 08:45 PM ET (US) I always wondered about the water issue with those things hanging out the side of the boat... There's $20 I saved. (ought to do it right, plumb the drains through the transom...). My Rage current Rage project with Scott's spare parts is far less intensive than Scott's next project. I'm trying to determine exactly how much wedge needs to be added to the ride plate to stop the porpoise problem. I gotta finish building my floating dock before 1/1/07.
sraab928	posted 12-07-2006 07:18 AM ET (US) My new Rage project will probably do just that - drain through the transom. I plan on building a completely one of a kind ride. You Florida guys make me jealous.. Dock building in December... Yesterday at the bus stop with my Daughter at 6:30 it was 28 degrees... UGH!
kamie	posted 12-08-2006 09:36 AM ET (US) I agree, the high will be in the 30's with 20 MPH winds. I am hoping that the weekend will break 50 so I can get out and work on the Outrage. Thanks for all the good info on a rage project, I am glad there are a few among the crowd that have worked on these unique Whalers. PS, if you have sent me an email on a rage project boat, my email program ate my email. Feel free to send it back to me. I do warn you, this project is down the road for me, first is putting a 150HP E-Tec on my 18 Outrage
sraab928	posted 12-10-2006 08:28 PM ET (US) Kamie, I resent the email this evening. Let me know if you got it. Scott
kamie	posted 12-11-2006 08:36 PM ET (US) Scott, got them. Thanks
ktm1	posted 01-17-2007 08:24 PM ET (US) Where2 How much fuel should I expect to be burning pulling the kids around tubing? Love the Rage layout, I haven't had it in the water yet. Can,t wait till spring! Thank Keith
where2	posted 01-19-2007 11:09 PM ET (US) Rage pulling tubes and hydroslides: 4 gallons per hour. It's a thirsty engine with that jet drive. I still marvel that I can ski on roughly 2/3 the fuel with my 15_Sport. My usual ski trip lasts from 8AM until noon (90 minutes of that is at idle in my canals). I can do that on a little over 6 gallons in the Sport, or about half that 23 gallon tank in the Rage. Still pondering the best way to add the wedge to the ride plate. Dock building has been going slow these past few weekends. So, I haven't had much opportunity to put the winter boat (The Rage) in the water. (I did get a permit extension) The dock is looking nice though, some things pay to take your time on...
ktm1	posted 01-20-2007 12:19 AM ET (US) Where2 Thanks for the info. Should I antisipate the overheating that seems to be common? I've been following all the Rage talk, very interesting projects. The outboard is slick and looks great. I picked up the Rage because of the jet drive and the safty of no prop around the kids. I hope I didn't make a mistake. This is my first jet driven boat and very excited about it. Thanks again, Keith
where2	posted 01-20-2007 06:42 PM ET (US) Certainly anticipate the overheating, even expect it. I'm still trying to determine a feasible way to monitor the head temperatures on both heads simultaneously while running. The new Lowrance multi-function gauge has the ability to display two temperature readings at the same time, but their sensors are not suitable for the temperature range we need to measure head temps. When my overheat alarm goes off, it's generally the "right" head as you face the engine compartment with it open, looking at the engine. Not sure if the sender is getting lame, or what the reasoning is as to why this head in particular overheats. I carry my handy Radio Shack non-contact IR thermometer with me when I run the rage. I can tell which head is overheating by pointing it at the head and comparing the temperature of the two. They really shouldn't run above 163°F under normal circumstances.
ktm1	posted 01-21-2007 09:19 PM ET (US) What is the reason for the overheating? Poor water circulation? Constantly running wide open? I understand that the water circulation is incorperated into the jet pump. Is there any way to correct this problem. I'm sure you have played with the thermostats. How long should I expect to run before overheating? Did OMC ever address this problem? My motor is a fresh rebuild, less than 10 hrs on it. How much life should I expect out of it? The pump was also rebuilt, maybe that will help with the overheating. Thanks Keith
where2	posted 01-21-2007 10:10 PM ET (US) Fresh engine rebuild, fresh pump rebuild, I know about both of those. I only have ~34 to 40 hours on my own Rage since the engine rebuild. (can't remember what the hour meter said last time I used the boat) The overheating is odd. I've gotten it at idle twice. I got it after I stopped the engine to pickup a skier (you learn to shut the engine off to keep from sucking up your rope while you're drifting with the wind in neutral). When you shut the engine off, you drain the water out of a good portion of the engine which doesn't help the cooling aspect. I've gotten it after I hit a patch of sargasso weed, and stopped the engine to clear the intake grate of the weed jam. (she started sounding when I restarted the engine). I replaced the thermostats just before the engine rebuild. I really haven't tracked down what the main issue is in cooling. I've got a strainer to catch sea weed and sand. I don't generally catch very much of either on most outings. A couple of the other Rage owners have completely removed their thermostats with the thought that more cooling water everywhere is better. I have not. My thermostats and poppet valves are all still in place. I've even considered installing some sort of auxiliary cooling pump to circulate cooling water when the engine is not running to keep from having to sit for 30 minutes while the engine transfers it's excess heat to the air. The one thing I have not been able to check is whether my overpressure bypass valve in the impeller assembly is stuck open. There is a bypass valve that is supposed to open only if you are making more than 20psi of pressure in the cooling system. My water pressure gauge rarely shows more than 15psi, maybe 20-22 if I am running wide open. At idle, it shows 0-2psi which seems a little weak if you ask me. Unfortnately, I have not found anyone else with a pressure gauge on their Rage to compare it to.
ktm1	posted 01-23-2007 09:59 PM ET (US) Where2 What I realy need is a shop manual for this engine. I don't know how the pump assembly works. From what I've heard the jet pump is allways "engaged", allowing water to circulate to the motor. Low idle = low cooling pressure, worn pump also means low water pressure. Any idea where I might find a manual. I posted a request on this site and also checked Ebay. I saw one for sale before I owned the boat. Can't remember where. Thanks Keith
where2	posted 01-23-2007 11:02 PM ET (US) The OMC Turbojet Service Manual is occasionally offered on Ebay. You might also check with Lisa at http://www.turbojetmarineproducts.com/home.htm I've dealt with them, they are legit, but you won't find a phone number on their website because they actually do other things to make a living during the day. Use their "Contact Us" page, they'll get back to you. Yes, the impeller is always engaged and spinning if the engine is running and the drive is latched closed. Low speed does = low water pressure. I just don't know how low is acceptable. Obviously, if the O-ring going into the transom on the cooling water plumbing section leaks, you're losing cooling water pressure. The impeller assembly is really not all that complicated when you disassemble it. I had mine apart last winter to replace the bearings inside it. Here's some HUGE photos of what it looks like disassembled: Remove the 4 allen head screws (6mm) to get this chunk off: http://www.tfn.net/~wendtm/Nozzle%20Side%20View.JPG Remove the 3 smaller metric allen screws to get this off: http://www.tfn.net/~wendtm/Stock%20Bearing%20Cone.JPG Put a socket on the large hex: http://www.tfn.net/~wendtm/ Impeller%20Assembly%20Quarter%20View%20wo%20Cone.JPG Find some way to hold this still: [URL]http://www.tfn.net/~wendtm/Stock OMC Impeller.JPG[/URL] (I put it face down on a piece of sacrificial plywood, and used an air wrench on the hex bolt). Your objective is to get to this point: [URL]http://www.tfn.net/~wendtm/Impeller Assembly wo Impeller Closeup.JPG[/URL] At this stage, you can see the first of two seals that keep the water out of the bearings. There's also an O-ring around that center shaft, inside the sleeve bushing. With the central bolt out, and the seals removed, pressing the bearings out is a little bit of a challenge, but any good machine shop should be able to do it no problem in just under an hour. I did it in my garage without a bearing puller or press. I had to get creative with some scrap metal and a long bolt with washers to use as a puller. (flat side the washers so they fit through the center of the bearing, but allow you to flat stack them to pull against). If I keep this up, I'll just need to write a How-To...
ktm1	posted 01-26-2007 11:18 PM ET (US) Where2 Thanks for the info. Spoke with a BW dealer today. Shop manual $72.00, Seems a little high. Also found a fresh water motor flush. What do you think about the after market performance kit for $ 450.00? I don't know if is worth it. Thanks Keith
BOB KEMMLER JR	posted 01-27-2007 07:19 PM ET (US) Has anyone tried to swap a 140 v4 powerhead in when the 115 takes a crap on them?That along with the performance upgrades to the impellar and grate might make the OMc Rages run fairly quick.You can even upgrade those omc v4's to around 180-220 hp with aftermarket builders.
where2	posted 01-27-2007 10:53 PM ET (US) Nick, My block was not far enough gone to benefit from scrapping it in favor of a 140Hp block... As for the Performance Kit, someone had to be the guinea pig, I was it. If I could get my intake grate off, I'd really be able to tell you how much difference it makes. As it is, I have the spacer installed at the transom, and the different nozzle after the impeller assembly, but I cannot change out the intake grate to the higher flow unit. (might just hog mine out with a dremel one day! I have the real high performance unit to compare it to.). If anyone has suggestions on getting those Allen bolts out, I'm listening. It seems to have slightly better hole shot, but nothing drastically better. Obviously, trying to gulp more water and having a restrictive screen in front of the suction is an issue. It seems to top out at 34mph on the GPS, but it will never keep up with the new 3 seater Kawasaki Jet Ski with 250hp... (unless you are in a 25mph speed limit area!) $72 for the service manual sounds high, but that's only equivalent to 1 hour of shop time in my area. So, in that respect, it's cheap at $72 if it simply shows me how to change the gear lube. It will pay for itself if you can replace the bearings in the impeller housing yourself using it, which is what I did...