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Author Topic:   Bilge Pump
mfclapp posted 03-22-2007 09:05 PM ET (US)   Profile for mfclapp   Send Email to mfclapp  
Jim,

The article and info post was very interesting and very helpful in understanding the pre Post Classic Whaler designs. These articles can be sometimes used to modify the factory installed Post Classic Whaler designs implemented in the 1990s.

For example I plan on changing the factory installed wiring and switch to the earlier model shown with the two position switch which is ultimately more practical than what was installed by the factory on Post Classic Whalers. Plan to install a plug in the bilge area for later replacements and waterproof connectors.

Unfortunately a lot of the rest of the article did not pertain to any of the unmodified factory Post Classic Whalers that are owned by Whaler Owners but was still fantastic reading.

I also noticed with great interest the bilge area discussion in the article and unlike the bilge area in the boat that this was written for the bilge area in my particular Outrage is an intrical part of the below deck water removal and drain system from the bow to the stern.

Also I noted with interest the statement that seemed to imply that you can leave out the bilge plug and that the bilge area would be self draining with the plug out while under way. On these particular units my factory installed bilge pump and auto switch are mounted at exactly the same height on the very bottom of the bilge area directly in front of the bilge drain transom hole. The bilge area is not self draining at trolling speeds and WILL fill with water and it really becomes a mute point simply because the bilge drain plug is totally inaccessible from the inside and unless you stand on your head the plug when inserted from the outside cannot be reached from the inside and not at all while underway.

I sure wish there were more people with Post Classic Whalers that did their own work so that they could contribute updated installation documentation and how to's that applies to these units. I guess as time goes by the info and data base will slowly expand as these units themselves become classics.

Thanks
Big Red

Chuck Tribolet posted 03-25-2007 06:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
In your earlier (now closed) thread, you asked what connectors
were appropriate in the bilge. Ans: none. Solder the
connections, and cover with Ancor's great hot-melt-glue-lined
heat shrink tubing. A connector in the bilge will corrode.

Since you reported that the wires were corroded green, you
have a wire cancer and the wires will need to be replaced.
Use the good Ancor wire. They have a bilge pump cable that
has three wires with the right color code.


Chuck

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