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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
190 Montauk, Mooring, Drift, Bimini Top
|Author||Topic: 190 Montauk, Mooring, Drift, Bimini Top|
posted 12-07-2007 12:55 PM ET (US)
This website is a wonderful resource. Just some additional questions since I'm seriously considering [a Boston Whaler 190 MONTAUK].
Any [problems] with keeping [a Boston Whaler 190 MONTAUK] in a slip? Drainage?
How does [a Boston Whaler 190 MONTAUK] drift? Stern first, sideways, bow first? I like to drift rip lines, my present boat likes to drift stern first which is not good since it has a cut out stern (staying at the throttle works fine to keep the stern out of the rip line).
Review on the bimini top? My goal is to add a T-top but if the boat is as dry as everyone claims the bimini maybe fine just for hot sunny days.
Quality and need for the bow cushion?
Does anyone order factory installed electronics? I see the options on the Boston Whaler site. Typically I like to select my own electronics, but it is nice to get a turn key package. Any reviews on factory installation and Navman units are also appreciated.
Comments on the 135? I never pictured myself going back to Mercury but I had them for around a decade and never had any significant [problems].
Thanks - Jack
posted 12-07-2007 02:26 PM ET (US)
I'm also thinking about [the Boston Whaler 190 MONTAUK] for us.
I tested [the Boston Whaler 190 MONTAUK] with the 115-HP two days ago in mirror flat water--lousy conditions for a sea trial.
Regarding drainage while in the slip, the scuppers in the transom are just completely above the water with 1/2 fuel and no gear or people on board. With me standing in the boat by the motor and looking over the stern the top of the scuppers are at the water's surface.
With the 115 and two on board the boat popped up on a sort of plane surprisingly quickly (by that I mean the bow started to come down) in about 3 seconds, but it didn't feel like we were really up on top till 4000 rpm.
At 3500 rpm we were on sort of a somewhat mushy plane. Kind of like an airplane in slow flight. Mind you the water was glassy so one could sense these picky things. Fuel burn according to BW is not significantly different between 3500 and 4000.
The 115 HP was, at 3500 rpm, in a zone making a low frequency noise that I found objectionable. This diminished greatly by 4000 rpm.
The steering was neutral (boat went arrow straight with hands off the wheel), harder to turn in one direction due to prop torque but easily handled. Sharp turns were very precisely carved and flat.
Regarding the choice of 115 or 135 HP, It is all in what you are used to from previous boats, or like or don't like, versus the big price difference.
I'm used to a classic Montauk with 90 HP, which is much more spirited. This boat weighs 100-percent more and has, with the 115, only 20% more horsepower, and is somewhere along the path of heavier bigger boats. There's no free lunch.
The increase in interior space on this boat is stunning.
There will be lots of experienced boaters who will choose the 115 over the 135. Its all a matter of personal preference.
posted 12-07-2007 03:31 PM ET (US)
For myself, I feel the up charge of $4,500 for the 135 was well worth it. I had experience with a 190 with a 115 as one of four fishermen. We also had onboard 60 gallons of fuel and plenty of gear. The 115 had to work too hard in my opinion. I also like the feedback options from the SmartCraft gauges that come with the 135 and the DTS throttle which is smooth and responsive. The boat is dry, very dry, in most conditions. I thought about a t-top but decided against it. As we speak ,however, I am having front and side curtains made for the bimini. I want them for early Spring and November through December fishing on the Chesapeake Bay. The cost for the curtains is about $1,500 using Sunbrella and high quality vinyl window material and zippers. I agree with boatdryer, the additional room is outstanding, especially coming up from a 170 Montauk. I did not purchase the bow cushion, did not feel I would use it much, and after one season I still feel the same way.I did not buy the built in Navman. I have a Garmin 545S, bracket mounted, which I can adjust the angle for sunlight, which I have found by the way is seldom necessary and use a hand held radio. I am very happy with the entire package.
posted 12-07-2007 08:16 PM ET (US)
My [Boston Whaler 190 MONTAUK] has been great. The 115 has been good with about 80 hours on it. Four people and gear get the 135. I didn't want to wait and it was $9,000 more for an 2008 combo. I was guessing 4-MPH fast but it seems it may be more of a gain. Boat is dry and Bimini is good, but in rough water you will need to drop it as the plastic buckles will break.
I don't do any fishing, just cruising and running it in the rough. I float in the inlet in 5-6 waves and have a snack and it drifts parallel with the waves. I sit up on the bow and lean against the rail. Dry solid boat and I put it though it's paces in the rough dropping off some big waves. It's a big great running boat for 19-feet. Transom shows no sign of stress and I looked closely. I used to race offshore boats but I can find some good thrills at 40-MPH if it rough enough. I raced all typed of Skaters up to 40-feet and some at 145-MPH. Funny I still have fun in the Whaler and always wanted one.
Rough deck surface is not as easy to clean as I thought it would be. That is the only thing wrong I can find if you can call it a fault. Top quality materials and construction in the boat. Fuel consumption is great also and I can't wait to see published performance from Mercury.
posted 12-07-2007 08:46 PM ET (US)
Since I have the experienced users kicking in - another question - built in boarding ladder/swim platform - I don't do any water sports but carry a portable ladder in my present boat in case someone falls over and we can't get them back in the boat. So my option is to keep carrying a portable ladder or get this option - what's the verdict?
Bimini top - thanks for the feedback - I don't envision running with it but its nice when your fishing on a bright sunny day. My present T-top has most likely reduced my chance of skin cancer.
For me I think I need the 135, I sometimes have 4 anglers on my present boat, I realize 4 will be crowded and we carry about 200 pounds of gear and could come back with another 100 pounds of fish. (Max power is nice.)
Thanks for all the feedback. Jack
posted 12-07-2007 08:50 PM ET (US)
Dry boat, lots of fun. I have a bow cushion and back seat for the family trips. They like them a lot and goes along way in keeping everyone happy when I take off fishing by myself. Wood duck, I too fish the bay in Spring and Fall, and I was thinking about some sort of curtains. I have a bimini, but did not realize a curtin could be made for this and allow fishing. Could you help me out with the details of your upgrade and a pic would be great also. Thank you.
ps. I put tackle boxes under the rear steps! Works great!
posted 12-07-2007 09:34 PM ET (US)
Mudkap1, curtain addition will be complete in about three weeks. I will post pictures and details. I, too, was skeptical about losing fishing space, however the way it will be designed will be functional and work for me.
posted 12-12-2007 11:42 AM ET (US)
I just picked up my 190 Montauk. I would like some info on putting the extra tackle storage under the rear steps.
posted 12-14-2007 10:47 AM ET (US)
Does anyone have photos of a front and side curtain set for the bimini sun top for the 190 Montauk.
posted 12-14-2007 06:35 PM ET (US)
I reviewed the plans for front/ side curtains for the bimini on my 190 Montauk. Too cumbersome to work with and will seriously get in the way while fishing. I decided not to go forward and will wear warmer clothing.
posted 12-20-2007 11:52 PM ET (US)
Mine has been great with the redesigned Honda 90 and the Honda kicker. The Bimimi is a pain for fishing and I'm thinking about a t-top.
posted 12-21-2007 08:40 AM ET (US)
I'm thinking about the T-top also! I just hate the idea of drilling into the floor. There are a few quality guys in the Houston area. I really like the fiberglass top but, they say the glass might be too heavy for a 19' boat. Any thoughts??
posted 12-23-2007 10:36 PM ET (US)
T tops - I would go for the canvas top versus the fiberglass for a 19 footer. I have installed a T top on my present boat (21 Hydrasport Ocean Skiff) - it has a glass top but a very light one. It is getting old looking. (10 years on it) but still does the job. The nicer hard tops are substancial and putting one on a 19 might be a bit risky. I did notice a big performance difference with my boat with the T top and even had to reprop. (comfort comes at a price) The hydra sport ride was a bit different with the top (still a good ride but it was better without the T top).
In the northeast the top is great at keeping you somewhat warmer in the cold weather and the spray off you and the sun off you during July/August. Guests on my boat use it to keep the wind/spray off them when running out through snotty water as well. Years ago I had a 17 aquasport with full canvas. (bow dodger, clear window, and bimini) - it was a good setup until the canvas shrunk.
I think the issue with t tops versus the bimini is really an issue of ease of use and running with the bimini "up". My guess is a bimini offers better sun protection when you stop the boat but no protection when running and you have it down. If you do a great deal of casting - flats, fish on top - a Top can be a pain but a bimini even worse. (I do a great deal of bottom fishing so the bimini might work for me.)
I need to run the 19 in the near future. Whaler should off a t top option with this boat (wish for the new year).
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