posted 03-23-2008 09:51 AM ET (US)        

Docking and getting the boat on the trailer was more difficult with the 170M than the Sport. Mostly because the sport seems to have much finer (forward, neutral, reverse) control with the throttle. With the 170M, the slowest forward speed (before popping into neutral) was still faster than I would have liked when doing tricky docking manuvers like manuvering around a crowded marina in wind and current and driving the boat onto the trailer. Also, wind effects the 170M more during such manuvers and it is harder to control the boat by hand due to its larger size and wind impact. With the S130, the trailer was much shorter and I used to easily manuver the boat on to the trailer by hand. This required me to wade into water up to about my knees. With the M170 the trailer is a lot longer which makes wading into water less desirable (especially in 40 degree water) because I have to wade further down the ramp into deeper water. My solution was to drive the boat onto the trailer. That was OK since I had help (like tossing a line to my wife after pulling onto the bunks) but I will need to improve my retreiving-to-trailer technique when I have to do it alone. Its hard to compare towing because my wife forced me to get a new tow vehicle for this boat (Toyota Tundra). Previous tow vehicle for the S130 was a Volvo XC70. This combination seemed to tow very well. Although only a TWD, the Tundra pulled the boat up the ramp with no problem.

posted 03-23-2008 03:45 PM ET (US)            

To make it easier to position the trailer at the optimum depth, I use a depth gauge mark on the trailer to indicate the depth of immersion. The mark is positioned so that it can be seen in the rear view mirror of the tow vehicle. When backing the trailer down the ramp, the water depth is easily observed and the trailer is easily position to the best immersion.

On launching it is hard to be too deep, but it is easy to be not deep enough. As long as my mark is submerged I know the boat will come off the trailer.

Loading can be more difficult if the trailer is too deeply submerged. I position the trailer right at my depth mark, and I find the boat loads very consistently and easily.

Also, my loading technique may involve adjusting the trailer position during the loading. On some ramps I find that the last few feet of travel of the boat onto the trailer can be made much easier if I back the trailer in another foot or two. This gives more buoyancy at the stern and lightens the boat on the trailer bunks so that it can be pulled forward by the winch more easily. The need to do this depends generally on the slope of the ramp.

posted 03-23-2008 05:00 PM ET (US)            

Works for me every time at every ramp.

^@^ (that's for you deep)

posted 03-23-2008 07:01 PM ET (US)            

Has anyone mastered a technique where they do not have to wade into water to launch and/or retrieve the boat when boating alone? I find that crawling over the bow on to the trailer is very difficult when the boat has bow rails.

posted 03-23-2008 07:18 PM ET (US)            

To aid in trailering, install roller guides on the back of the trailer. It makes loading, unloading so much easier. I do not recommend the PVC poles if you use a unprotected ramp.

Mine look like this http://picasaweb.google.com/CascoBayOutrage/OutrageTrailer/ photo#5077894157687870178

With these installed my time putting in or taking out went down to < 10 minutes, regardless of waves or wind.

As for driving on, (a.k.a. power loading) note that some ramps do not allow this due to the prop wash damage on the ramp. With a boat that size, I do not think you need to power load.

I never get in the water. Try walking on the trailer frame to hook/unhook the bow strap. If uneasy doing this you can install steps.

Practice will help you find the sweet spot for the trailer and the techniques.

You might want to casually watch other owners and observe them. Note the things they do right and wrong.

posted 03-24-2008 04:16 AM ET (US)            

Erik

posted 03-24-2008 07:38 AM ET (US)            

But I prefer these

posted 03-24-2008 12:31 PM ET (US)            

I trailer all the time in the ocean and rivers. Conditions are often crummy, to put it mildly. A few weeks after getting my first whaler, a 1987 Montauk, I was loitering off my local ramp practicing low speed maneuvering. (Someone here suggested practicing maneuvering up to a bouy from different angles).

I watched two boats being loaded on trailers. Both boats were 16-20 ft and the same dual console type I/0. The guy with the guides went forward and was pushed by the wind. Once he touched the stern roller, the boat centered and he kept moving forward. He hopped out and did the drill. Total time ~ 5 minutes. The other boater got the boat loaded but it took him 3 attempts. The stern kept getting pushed off due to the wind. Total time ~ 20 minutes and frustrated.

While I have mastered trailering, rigging the trailer with guides makes it somewhat idiot proof (I consider myself to be one). If a new boater, it allows you to overcome one of the more anoying things to master.

As for PVC guides, they do work well. I find they don't work well if it is really windy and there are waves. My ramp is exposed and often it is blowing 15 with 2'ft waves and ship wakes. When I retrieve, I want/need to hit the trailer 1st time, scoot, hookup and get out fast.

An installation tip - I would mount them as far back on the frame and as close to the hull as possible, 1 1/2- 2" is good.

Seth - I obtained mine from http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo& productID=5190&categoryID=220 because my boat sits inside the frame and wanted a heavy duty set.

posted 03-30-2008 06:03 PM ET (US)            

I have no reason to get a slip when I have a place to store the boat (back yard) 1 mile away form a free ramp with access to the ocean.

A friend at work offered a free mooring last year. I had to turn him down based on the same points I outlined above. If I ever sell my boat, the new owner will love me for it.

Let the debate begin! ;-)

posted 03-30-2008 07:35 PM ET (US)            

Don't feel to bad. It is a new skill that takes time to learn.

Each person has their own "technique" and you just need time and practice to find yours. When I got my Montauk I spent several days over a few weekends early in March practicing unloading and loading. While the ramp was practically deserted, I got some funny looks. I figured it was better to make mistakes with no one around to see. For what it is worth, here is mine "routine".

At the launch prep area: (dock is on starboard side)

I get out of the truck, unplug the lights, walk down the port side get in the boat, install plug, turn on master power (under the stern seat). Get out and walk around the stern checking the engine is tilted correctly, up the starboard side, unfurl stern line, pull stern bumper, raise the VHF antenna, pull out bow bumper, unfurl bow line. At the bow I loosen bow strap by 6" and re-lock, take off safety chain from bow eye.

Launching:

I back down next to the floats as close as possible. 6-12 inches is good. (this takes a lot of practice) When at the proper distance, open door, step on the door sill and up onto the float. I walk back to the rear, step on bumper (SUV), holding on to the air dam on the roof. With both feet on the tongue and holding on to the bow rail, loosen bow strap and unhook. Push bow up and out, Walking on the trailer frame, I push the boat 1-2 feet out and grab bow line and step off trailer frame on to the float. Secure boat to dock.

Retrieving:

After docking, I shut down the electronics, kill the engine, tilt up. After retrieving the trailer and positioning it in the water. I untie bow, then stern. To move the boat, I take the stern line, walk up to about next to the console. I pull on the stern line and use my other hand on the bow rail to fend off the boat.

When she is 1/2 way on the trailer, I throw the stern line in the boat. I walk forward to the bow, hold on to the bow rail and step on to the trailer frame and walk up the trailer frame, grabbing the bow line as I pass it. When at the head of the trailer, loosen winch and play out winch while still holding bow line just in case. Pull boat in by hand till she stops and hook up. Winch in the boat while standing on rear bumper and trailer frame. Step from bumper onto float, holding on to the air dam.

Setup area:

Reverse of launch prep.

Note - I do not let people help me because it messes me up and I always forget something. While some may feel I am unthankful, it is actually faster for me to do it all myself. I have only slipped and stepped in the water 4 times in 5 years. I think most of these were due to being distracted.

Regardless of what I described, use the boat and you will find the routine that works. Just don't get discouraged.

posted 03-31-2008 10:10 AM ET (US)            

Erik

posted 03-31-2008 01:09 PM ET (US)            

Float refers to the courtesy floats.

I too have issues with launching locations having different setups. The Eliot ramp (on a tidal river) has courtesy floats that are 1-2' higher than my local ramp. It is a real bear to climb up. They also have pilings on one side of the floats. Depending on timing, you have to launch or retrieve on the side with the pilings. That can be hairy with the strong current.

For the 4 or 5 ramps, I tweek the routing to suit the ramp just as you said.

Sounds like you are in good shape!

C B O

BTW - Hey Feejer and GB - Why don't you guys take your conversation off-line.

posted 03-31-2008 01:19 PM ET (US)            

Then again, maybe I haven't really observed it closely enough. 23 mph just seems might slow for a planing speed. Best I recall, mine is closer to 27 or 28 before planing off. I find that 34-35 is an ideal cruising speed for me, and, like you, am often pleasantly surprised at fuel consumption of less than expected amounts.

posted 03-31-2008 01:44 PM ET (US)            

Sapple,
here is a article in the reference section regardng trailering if you have not read it already. If you have I appologize in advance.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/trailering/twoSchools.html

posted 03-31-2008 05:38 PM ET (US)            

GreatBayNH, thanks for providing that link about different ramp configurations. I had not seen that before and found it to be most informative. I am certainly glad that Virginia ramps have service docks. I boat alone a lot and would not want to launch and retrieve without a dock.