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Author Topic:   Hauling a 190 Outrage/Nantucket

RonB posted 09-27-2008 04:38 PM ET (US)
Wmeier posted a few days ago looking for suggestions about launching and retrieving his new 190 Outrage by himself. Many of us responded and gave him some valuable tips.
Well, I was down at the marina this morning to pull my 190 Outrage out of the water for a little upcoming maintenance in my driveway and grabbed my camera so I could post some pics. I know everybody's situation is different, i.e., tow vehicle, angle of ramp, current, tide, wind, weather, etc., but I hope these pics help some of you.
1. At the loading dock, high tide, no wind and a TON of seagrass, I cleaned the ramp the best I could but couldn't clear it from the front of the boat/ramp.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rbuchholz63/Boston%20Whaler/ 2007%20Outrage%2019/?action=view¤t=haulingboat003b.jpg
2. Back trailer in water, top of trailer fenders are just above the water. I place a 4x4 piece of wood under the front tire of my truck too, just as a precaution. I also pull out about 4 or 5 feet of strap from the trailer and lay it over the top of the winch.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rbuchholz63/Boston%20Whaler/ 2007%20Outrage%2019/?action=view¤t=haulingboat005b.jpg
3. I idle the boat away from the dock, engage into forward, and at idle drive the boat between the bunks. I then give a little more throttle to ease the boat a little further up the bunks. I shut the motor off, and tilt it out of the water. I climb over the bow and onto the trailer, I hook up the strap and winch her up, and then connect the safety chain.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rbuchholz63/Boston%20Whaler/ 2007%20Outrage%2019/?action=view¤t=haulingboat008b.jpg
4. At this point I hop in the truck and slowly pull the boat and trailer out of the water. With this boat and truck, I do not need to engage four wheel drive (I do turn overdrive off), I just ease the boat out of the water. After moving about a foot, I stop to pull the 4x4 out from under the truck.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rbuchholz63/Boston%20Whaler/ 2007%20Outrage%2019/?action=view¤t=haulingboat013b.jpg
5. Finally, I attach the 'My-Wedge', and stern tie down straps and prepare the boat for highway travel.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rbuchholz63/Boston%20Whaler/ 2007%20Outrage%2019/?action=view¤t=mywedge.jpg
Ron
My next

highanddry posted 09-27-2008 07:17 PM ET (US)
About the same thing I do except if the wateri s deep and a good angle Iwill drive most of the way on to the trailer.
You guys would have much less trouble with steep and slippery ramps with 4WD.
The positionof your fenders, just slightly above the water is how I do as well. That is just about perfect.
Good job, nice boat too.
alfred posted 09-27-2008 08:12 PM ET (US)
Wow you guys are lucky! To get my fenders in like that my rear wheels are in the water!
Haven't seen a My Wedge before. You happy with it? I use a block of wood at the moment.
RonB posted 09-27-2008 08:40 PM ET (US)
Alfred,
Check out:
http://www.m-ywedge.com/
I heard about it either here or Glen's website (veradoclub.com) and decided it was the right solution for me.
It works like a charm.
I had to pull the boat because I'm draining my tank tomorrow (if it's not raining)to deal with a little water/phase separation. I'll take pics of that operation too.
Ron
highanddry posted 09-27-2008 09:04 PM ET (US)
Why is there a problem with the rear wheels being in the water as long as you don't go so deep as to ge saltwater on your vehicle. With a high clearence vehicle you should be able to backdown quite a way with the wheels in the water before you are in far enough to get the bumper and fenders of the vehicle wet.
You can get a short extension, a drawbar extension, not a trailer extension. I have seen these from 6 to 24 inches long. One up on dry, level ground you can remove the extension all the while keeping your chains connected and the wheels chcoked.
RonB posted 09-27-2008 09:11 PM ET (US)
Don't think there is a problem with putting the back wheels in the water. I've done it at other ramps, but I'd be careful about a slick ramp and not having four wheel drive. I think most of us have seen this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FshOpPqj88
alfred posted 09-28-2008 06:25 AM ET (US)
I don't like it when the exhaust is burbling. Cooling the exhaust in salt water can't be good for it and if the motor dies, salt water will be sucked in!
highanddry posted 09-28-2008 12:04 PM ET (US)
Since my truck is a high cleanence vehicle I can back my rear wheels several feet into the water depending on the ramp without getting the exhaust pipe or bumper in the water. Route your exhaust out the side as is done on most modern vehicles just behind the rear wheel. It is very helpful having a vehicle that can wet the rear wheels.
I guess if your trying to tow with a car or a low sitting vehicle it could present a problem at the ramp. The Outrage 190 has a deep hull and the trailer sits the boat pretty high it seems (even though the engine when lowered only clears the ground by a few inches) and these things along with a poor vehcile choice could lead to problems since this boat/trailer combo needs to be backed down quite aways before it will set itself free of the trailer.
As was pictured in the OPs photos, the trailer wheel fenders just above the surface is the depth the trailer needs to be at to load/unload. I usually don't go quite that deep as pictured but he is in the sweet spot there.
Perry posted 09-28-2008 12:49 PM ET (US)
My 2000 F150 4X4 has rear drum brakes and I made the mistake of getting the rear wheels in the salt water once. I rinsed the hubs but it still rusted out the brake components. It was a costly mistake.
Now I may get my rear tires wet but not the hubs.
WT posted 09-28-2008 02:10 PM ET (US)
RonB:
I don't know if you do this, but you might want to give it a try.
Leave your tailgate down as you are backing down the ramp, it's easier to see. Also with the tailgate down you can hop into the truck bed from your trailer so you don't slip on the seagrass. From the truck bed, climb out and put your foot on top of the rear tire to step onto dry pavement.
Warren
RonB posted 09-28-2008 07:15 PM ET (US)
Warren,
That's a great tip that I hadn't thought about, I normally just open the drivers door. Next time, the tailgate will be down.
Thanks!
Ron
wmeier posted 09-28-2008 07:52 PM ET (US)
Thanks, the pics are definitely helpful. I was watching the whaler clips showing how to launch and retrieve and got the impression that 3/4 covered would do. However like your pics you really need to submerge the whole wheel to get the boat to float or retrieve. I bought the M-ywedge and very happy with it...just wish I didn't wast the money on that transom saver that was probable good only for a bass boat or small ski boat.

alfred posted 09-28-2008 09:59 PM ET (US)
Where are the links for the Whaler clips on launching?
alfred posted 09-28-2008 11:19 PM ET (US)
Found it. Cheers.

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Author	Topic: Hauling a 190 Outrage/Nantucket
RonB	posted 09-27-2008 04:38 PM ET (US) Wmeier posted a few days ago looking for suggestions about launching and retrieving his new 190 Outrage by himself. Many of us responded and gave him some valuable tips. Well, I was down at the marina this morning to pull my 190 Outrage out of the water for a little upcoming maintenance in my driveway and grabbed my camera so I could post some pics. I know everybody's situation is different, i.e., tow vehicle, angle of ramp, current, tide, wind, weather, etc., but I hope these pics help some of you. 1. At the loading dock, high tide, no wind and a TON of seagrass, I cleaned the ramp the best I could but couldn't clear it from the front of the boat/ramp. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rbuchholz63/Boston%20Whaler/ 2007%20Outrage%2019/?action=view¤t=haulingboat003b.jpg 2. Back trailer in water, top of trailer fenders are just above the water. I place a 4x4 piece of wood under the front tire of my truck too, just as a precaution. I also pull out about 4 or 5 feet of strap from the trailer and lay it over the top of the winch. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rbuchholz63/Boston%20Whaler/ 2007%20Outrage%2019/?action=view¤t=haulingboat005b.jpg 3. I idle the boat away from the dock, engage into forward, and at idle drive the boat between the bunks. I then give a little more throttle to ease the boat a little further up the bunks. I shut the motor off, and tilt it out of the water. I climb over the bow and onto the trailer, I hook up the strap and winch her up, and then connect the safety chain. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rbuchholz63/Boston%20Whaler/ 2007%20Outrage%2019/?action=view¤t=haulingboat008b.jpg 4. At this point I hop in the truck and slowly pull the boat and trailer out of the water. With this boat and truck, I do not need to engage four wheel drive (I do turn overdrive off), I just ease the boat out of the water. After moving about a foot, I stop to pull the 4x4 out from under the truck. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rbuchholz63/Boston%20Whaler/ 2007%20Outrage%2019/?action=view¤t=haulingboat013b.jpg 5. Finally, I attach the 'My-Wedge', and stern tie down straps and prepare the boat for highway travel. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rbuchholz63/Boston%20Whaler/ 2007%20Outrage%2019/?action=view¤t=mywedge.jpg Ron My next
highanddry	posted 09-27-2008 07:17 PM ET (US) About the same thing I do except if the wateri s deep and a good angle Iwill drive most of the way on to the trailer. You guys would have much less trouble with steep and slippery ramps with 4WD. The positionof your fenders, just slightly above the water is how I do as well. That is just about perfect. Good job, nice boat too.
alfred	posted 09-27-2008 08:12 PM ET (US) Wow you guys are lucky! To get my fenders in like that my rear wheels are in the water! Haven't seen a My Wedge before. You happy with it? I use a block of wood at the moment.
RonB	posted 09-27-2008 08:40 PM ET (US) Alfred, Check out: http://www.m-ywedge.com/ I heard about it either here or Glen's website (veradoclub.com) and decided it was the right solution for me. It works like a charm. I had to pull the boat because I'm draining my tank tomorrow (if it's not raining)to deal with a little water/phase separation. I'll take pics of that operation too. Ron
highanddry	posted 09-27-2008 09:04 PM ET (US) Why is there a problem with the rear wheels being in the water as long as you don't go so deep as to ge saltwater on your vehicle. With a high clearence vehicle you should be able to backdown quite a way with the wheels in the water before you are in far enough to get the bumper and fenders of the vehicle wet. You can get a short extension, a drawbar extension, not a trailer extension. I have seen these from 6 to 24 inches long. One up on dry, level ground you can remove the extension all the while keeping your chains connected and the wheels chcoked.
RonB	posted 09-27-2008 09:11 PM ET (US) Don't think there is a problem with putting the back wheels in the water. I've done it at other ramps, but I'd be careful about a slick ramp and not having four wheel drive. I think most of us have seen this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FshOpPqj88
alfred	posted 09-28-2008 06:25 AM ET (US) I don't like it when the exhaust is burbling. Cooling the exhaust in salt water can't be good for it and if the motor dies, salt water will be sucked in!
highanddry	posted 09-28-2008 12:04 PM ET (US) Since my truck is a high cleanence vehicle I can back my rear wheels several feet into the water depending on the ramp without getting the exhaust pipe or bumper in the water. Route your exhaust out the side as is done on most modern vehicles just behind the rear wheel. It is very helpful having a vehicle that can wet the rear wheels. I guess if your trying to tow with a car or a low sitting vehicle it could present a problem at the ramp. The Outrage 190 has a deep hull and the trailer sits the boat pretty high it seems (even though the engine when lowered only clears the ground by a few inches) and these things along with a poor vehcile choice could lead to problems since this boat/trailer combo needs to be backed down quite aways before it will set itself free of the trailer. As was pictured in the OPs photos, the trailer wheel fenders just above the surface is the depth the trailer needs to be at to load/unload. I usually don't go quite that deep as pictured but he is in the sweet spot there.
Perry	posted 09-28-2008 12:49 PM ET (US) My 2000 F150 4X4 has rear drum brakes and I made the mistake of getting the rear wheels in the salt water once. I rinsed the hubs but it still rusted out the brake components. It was a costly mistake. Now I may get my rear tires wet but not the hubs.
WT	posted 09-28-2008 02:10 PM ET (US) RonB: I don't know if you do this, but you might want to give it a try. Leave your tailgate down as you are backing down the ramp, it's easier to see. Also with the tailgate down you can hop into the truck bed from your trailer so you don't slip on the seagrass. From the truck bed, climb out and put your foot on top of the rear tire to step onto dry pavement. Warren
RonB	posted 09-28-2008 07:15 PM ET (US) Warren, That's a great tip that I hadn't thought about, I normally just open the drivers door. Next time, the tailgate will be down. Thanks! Ron
wmeier	posted 09-28-2008 07:52 PM ET (US) Thanks, the pics are definitely helpful. I was watching the whaler clips showing how to launch and retrieve and got the impression that 3/4 covered would do. However like your pics you really need to submerge the whole wheel to get the boat to float or retrieve. I bought the M-ywedge and very happy with it...just wish I didn't wast the money on that transom saver that was probable good only for a bass boat or small ski boat.
alfred	posted 09-28-2008 09:59 PM ET (US) Where are the links for the Whaler clips on launching?
alfred	posted 09-28-2008 11:19 PM ET (US) Found it. Cheers.