Forum: WHALER
  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
  210 Outrage Anchor Type

Post New Topic  Post Reply
search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   210 Outrage Anchor Type
SJUAE posted 02-23-2009 02:55 PM ET (US)   Profile for SJUAE  
Will a Bruce Claw type anchor fit the standard bow roller on a 210 Outrage 2006 ? or do you know the OEM supplier of the roller so I can ask them.

I currently have a galvanised Danforth type but have the chance to buy via mail order a S/S Bruce type (see link to pic below)

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/518/brucestyleclawanchordim.jpg

Regards
Steve

SJUAE posted 02-23-2009 02:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for SJUAE    
On the linked picture, the dimenesions are as follows:

A = 410mm/16"
B= 180mm/7"
C= 180mm/7"
Frank O posted 02-24-2009 05:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for Frank O  Send Email to Frank O     
I'm not familiar with the 2006 Outrage 21, but on my 1995 Outrage I've been using a Bruce, albeit a small one.

Here is my bow roller with the Fortress anchor that came with the boat when I bought it three years ago:

http://www.inkbox.net/whaler/parts/anchor-hardware.jpg

Here's a Bruce that my dive buddy donated:

http://www.inkbox.net/whaler/parts/anchor.jpg

This is a 5-kilogram Bruce. I'd prefer the next size up, and am keeping my eye out for one.

The only issue I've had is that one of the claws has a tendency to hit the boat's hull. I keep meaning to work on readjusting the roller to try to avoid this.

Is the setup on the 2006 model very different?

SJUAE posted 02-24-2009 07:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for SJUAE    
Frank

Many thanks, set-up is similar if not the same roller, but my locker arrangement is not as nice

http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/7341/anchor1.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/4221/anchor2.jpg

Do you think by adding a rubber block say from a trailer part bolted on the lower flares each side would solve the problem ?

Maybe one of these modified slightly or something similar

{url]http://shop.easternmarine.com/images/product/thumbnails/sm_4852.jpg[/url]

regards
Steve

SJUAE posted 02-24-2009 08:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for SJUAE    
Link fixed

http://shop.easternmarine.com/images/product/thumbnails/sm_4852.jpg


Indicative picture of rubber blocks

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/4963/anchor5.jpg

regards

Frank O posted 02-24-2009 10:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for Frank O  Send Email to Frank O     
Well, the place where I was getting the anchor rubbing against the hull is out at the end of the claw. You can see in the picture of the Bruce that I put some red tape there.

My concern, though, is that anything I install on the anchor itself can either fall off or interfere with the functioning of the anchor. The best solution, at least for my configuration, would be to adjust the roller or add something else there to make the anchor stand a little bit farther forward of the bow. It doesn't have to be very much, just a half inch or so.

Good luck with your anchor situation.

SJUAE posted 02-25-2009 09:29 AM ET (US)     Profile for SJUAE    
Frank

Sorry maybe I missled you the lower flares on the roller not the anchor is where I would attach some blocks to both keep the anchor further forward and stop it jumping up as this is how it works on the Danforth.

I think I will get it regardless and find a soulution.

Thanks again for your pictures at least I know it's not a major problem

regards
Steve

Frank O posted 02-26-2009 12:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for Frank O  Send Email to Frank O     
Sorry! Just a little slow -- that sounds like a feasible idea. I'll take a look at mine and see how it might work out.

SJUAE posted 02-26-2009 11:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for SJUAE    
May be a simpler solution would be a s/s square U bolt bent open to suit the roller lower flared wings.

As this would be adjustable, give a flat surface for the inside of the anchor main blade to land against and at the same time allows the anchor shaft to pull tight against the roller.

Jordi posted 02-27-2009 04:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jordi    
Steve,
I use a Lewmar Galvanized 11lbs Claw ($40) from West Marine and it works perfectly. The anchor fits without added padding. I use a bungee cord to wrap from the chain to the cleat to secure tightly when cruising. I have found the anchor easier to retrieve and use. I pad the anchor locker with a few PFD's or plenty of rope and it fit's nicely. This set up is both economical and practical for the 210. Loosing very expensive claw type anchors in cable's and structure by bridges while fishing is frustrating and expensive.
Good luck,
Jordi

SJUAE posted 02-28-2009 02:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for SJUAE    
Jordi

Thanks for your comments, fortunately it’s almost always sandy bottoms here and there is only 2 bridges that cross the shallows on to the main Island of Abu Dhabi although a new one is being built to another island Al Reem, that may be worth a visit.

Apart from the fact the Stainless steel will look nice it will be much easier to take my boat cover off each time, as the bars on the Danforth always snag.

Although it’s sunny 360 days of the year here the cover is not only essential for protecting against UV but the constant fight against the sand/dust in the air. It’s that bad most people have their cars washed every day, the good news is it only costs 25USD a month and boat cleaning is included with my mooring/parking so the boat is cleaned constantly.

As I can’t get these claw anchors here galvanized or stainless it was opportune that when I purchase a Yam 9.9 high thrust kicker I have a spare 70lbs of cargo weight I can utilise.

I’ve had my custom kicker bracket made and installed now. I will update this thread once finished for future reference.

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/015601.html

Regards
Steve

Post New Topic  Post Reply
Hop to:


Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.