posted 06-19-2010 10:26 AM ET (US)            

Just did this on my 2009 190. On my boat, and probably on yours, there are two rigging tunnels, one on each side of the boat.

The starboard tunnel is full of all the stuff running from the helm to the engine. I found the port tunnel to be unused. This made it very easy to use the port tunnel to pull the transducer cable from the transom into the console. Easy access is available via the deck plate just forward and to the right of the port aft seating space beside the engine. Due to the location of the tunnel I mounted the transducer on the port side of the engine.

When you use the existing "pull string" I suggest you tie another cord to the end so you can pull the "pull string" back to the rear of the rigging tunnel.

Good luck.

posted 06-22-2010 12:47 PM ET (US)            

If I ever replace my GPS/fishfinder, I hope I am able to buy a unit compatible with my cable, because I surely do not want to try R&R'ing me existing cable.

Hopefully your 190 will be easier.

posted 07-02-2010 07:34 PM ET (US)            

On reflection I'm not sure that was the best choice. It is not always easy to read while underway. I hope to get used to it. On the former boat my GPS/Sounder was gimbal mounted directly in front of the steering wheel and the angle of the device could be adjusted as required. Your compass arrangement may not allow that spot for mounting.

I suggest you use some Gorilla tape and the gimbal to mount the GPS in various places until you find the one that suits you best. You can run the power and transducer cables out through the console door until you make a decision. Just remove the door while you try things out. The Sun's angle may impact your decision. Try different directions of travel and cloud conditions before deciding.

Due to the requirement to drill some pretty large holes (1/4 inch or so) to gimbal mount the unit it's best to be sure. Changing the location after a full installation can look pretty messy.

posted 07-03-2010 07:51 PM ET (US)            

Another trick you may try is to make a bend in the transducer cable by bending back the first foot or two and taping it to the cable. This will put that large fitting well behind the bend in the cable. Then secure your pull rope to the cable at the bend. This will enable you to pull a smaller diameter piece through the bottleneck at the floor of the console.

Also, before trying to pull the cable ensure the loop around the cables entering the console has been loosened. If the loop has been loosened you will be able to put a couple of fingers into the mess of wiring and hydraulic hoses where they enter the console. Once everything is loose try to get your pull rope untangled from all the other stuff. You'll know when it's ready to pull because you'll be able to easily find slack in the rope.

Once everything is free you should have no trouble pulling the transducer cable into the console. It may help if you can have a friend place some gentle resistance on the transducer cable so that you are not trying to pull any kinks. It will be up to the friend to keep the cable feeding straight and true.

Once you have the cable where you want it tighten the loop at the floor of the console where all the cables enter.

posted 07-04-2010 11:27 AM ET (US)            

I taped up the bulge to make a nice taper to the fitting which it 7/8". I have no clue why they cannot leave a lot more room to run stuff in the boat Seems like I can't even find a spot to stick my finger in at the rear. I will have to get my mechanic mirror and see if I can look better. PO'ed on the 4th I ended up like this with the boat apart.

posted 07-04-2010 04:33 PM ET (US)            

Man, that has to be frustrating!!

If I understand you correctly you are not able to even get the transducer cable started at the stern end of the port side rigging tunnel which is empty. The rigging tunnel is approximately two inches in diameter and there should be absolutely no resistance to pull until you reach the area beneath the console floor when other cables make the area a little crowded.

Did you find the pull cable at the stern end of the rigging tunnel was secured to the open end of the tunnel with a wire tie? This is difficult to see and to remove the wire tie by cutting it must be done by feel. You can get a decent view of the whole affair by sticking your head into the bilge space though the motor well panel above the bilge pump. Be careful. When I was trying to work in there I got over balanced and had to struggle to get out.

The only two things I can think of are that the rigging tunnel may have some foam in it or possibly the pull rope is somehow remaining stuck at the rigging tunnel stern entrance. Perhaps when the wire tie was removed the rope became wrapped around the tunnel opening. Does the pull rope move easily when it is not attached to the transducer cable? If so, I believe the tunnel may be partially obstructed. If not, the rope is probably catching somewhere.

Get someone to give you a hand with this. If the tunnel seems to be obstructed get your helper to help you pull the pull rope back and forth for a while to try and loosen any obstruction. If it is foam the back and forth action may cut it just like a two man saw. Also try to ensure the pull rope is totally free at both ends. Mine had a wire tie holding the pull rope at both ends. Because there were two pull ropes side by side in the console it took a moment for me to determine which rope was for which tunnel. For that reason when I got it worked out I used an indelible marker to indicate on the label which rope was for which tunnel.

posted 07-04-2010 06:09 PM ET (US)            

I wired it up and plugged it in and it does not turn on. So I figure may be I have a bad crimp connection. Take out my test light to check the plug end that goes into unit and I have power to one of the female pin receptacles unfortunately. Fixing a connection would be easier than sending this unit back. No luck with this project. You press light button and hold for 3 seconds to turn on and off. Had the honey try it with no luck either. Well the wire did not defeat me the rest is someone else's problem. Thanks for all the support while I was going crazy. Keep you posted on the rest of the repairs.

posted 07-05-2010 10:32 AM ET (US)            

By all means check those crimps. I found that I'd done a poor job on one of my crimps because when I was working inside the console to pull cable and do some bundling for appearance a little too much pressure on my VHF ground pulled the wire right out of the crimp-on ring connector. It took me a while with a voltmeter to get it figured out because the end of the wire remained in the connector but without touching the metal ring.

posted 07-28-2010 10:04 AM ET (US)            

I hope this does not mean you will have to pull another transducer cable.

If it does you will at least be highly experienced in that enterprise and it should be easy for you.

posted 07-29-2010 10:01 AM ET (US)            

Since this issue is no longer limited to Post Classic Whalers is it time to move it to Electrical?

Sounds as if the problem is not in the head unit. It is waaay unlikely you would get two defective units in a row.

As you are reading 12.5 volts at the female plug your wiring sounds right.

Assuming you did not receive a second defective unit AND that everything is wired correctly what remains to be checked? I would suspect that the final connection is the next logical item to examine.

Sometimes these connectors can be tricky. Once they are correctly aligned and pushed together it is important to ensure the connector is fully engaged with the receptacle and that the tightening ring is completely tight. It could be useful to use a little contact cleaner before connecting to lubricate the pins and sockets. Use the cleaner on both the plug and the socket and take the opportunity to carefully examine the pins to be certain none are bent. If you find a bent pin be very careful when you straighten it. A broken pin can be an expensive problem.

posted 07-29-2010 04:15 PM ET (US)            

Now I look at the two plugs side by side and see some of the 6 female receptacles are buried back in the rubber molded plug. Some are flush to the surface of the plug and looking straight at it you can see a metal end ring showing. Pin recess is at different pin locations on each of the harnesses I have. I am guess manufacturing flaws.

So I call back Lowrance and Matt (the tech) said don't worry if it powers up install it. I said the other pins are for the sonar so what happens if I put this in and the sonar doesn't work due to that pin not connecting because it is recessed? I told him I am not very pleased at this point and if I do an install again and have another dead function I will really be MAD!

So he comes back again with a harness in hand which he said all the receptacles are flush to the surface. He said I better wait for this harness to come and install it.

They bench tested the first unit and said it was dead so in a strange way I was happy about that. So as I wait for another harness the summer slips away week by week. I really wanted to go to some unfamiliar places in the Great South Bay and all around Long Island before summers end.

The construction project I have is 90 miles each way or 2.5-3 hr with traffic each way. Boating will curtailed as I will be very tired after working and driving.

My next thought is to hook the new harness up (not through hull just temp) and just hold the transducer in the water to see if it works.

posted 08-02-2010 09:05 AM ET (US)            

The problem is availability from a well know and reliable supplier. I would hesitate to buy a refurbished item from a supplier not previously known to me or as a minimum not previously know to members of a forum in which I have some confidence.

Unfortunately there are a lot of stolen or counterfeit items for sale on the net.

posted 08-14-2010 07:18 PM ET (US)            

Did seem to see some things are not exactly where charted. Some bouys were mot as shown and up to 75+ feet off. I was past a bridge about 75' and it showed me right under it. Then other things like a dock corner were right were shown when I passed it.

Boat did 34.xx mph near full of fuel, one person, no gear, and bottom paint. No clue why they had 115 maximum power when I bought it. They should of did the 150 right off the bat.