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Author Topic:   2007 190 MONTAUK: Running Wiring Through Rigging Tunnel
Whalerdog posted 06-17-2010 05:37 PM ET (US)   Profile for Whalerdog   Send Email to Whalerdog  
I was looking to put a GPS with transducer in my 07 19' Montauk. I see where the controls are run back and exit. I was looking for some tips on snaking it through to the transom. I see a string coming out is than a pull cord to pass wires through? If I use a snake any particular type to use? Thanks!
Nauti Tauk posted 06-17-2010 07:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for Nauti Tauk  Send Email to Nauti Tauk     
The string you see is meant to be used to pull additonal cables/wires from the console to the stern of the boat. If you use it as intended it's a good idea to fasten two new pull strings to the cable/wire you're installing and pull them through and leave them in the tunnel for the "next time". Using nylon as a pull cord is a good idea since the rigging tunnel is often wet.
contender posted 06-17-2010 07:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for contender  Send Email to contender     
Either use an electrical fish tape, or use the string in your tunnel. When you pull the line/fish tape through attach another line to it so you have one in the tunnel for next time
Whalerdog posted 06-17-2010 07:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
Thanks it looks tight but I'll give it a shot.
jimh posted 06-17-2010 08:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Jefecinco posted 06-19-2010 10:26 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     

Just did this on my 2009 190. On my boat, and probably on yours, there are two rigging tunnels, one on each side of the boat.

The starboard tunnel is full of all the stuff running from the helm to the engine. I found the port tunnel to be unused. This made it very easy to use the port tunnel to pull the transducer cable from the transom into the console. Easy access is available via the deck plate just forward and to the right of the port aft seating space beside the engine. Due to the location of the tunnel I mounted the transducer on the port side of the engine.

When you use the existing "pull string" I suggest you tie another cord to the end so you can pull the "pull string" back to the rear of the rigging tunnel.

Good luck.


Marsh posted 06-22-2010 12:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for Marsh  Send Email to Marsh     
I did this task several years ago on my 2004 Montauk 170...only one rigging tunnel, and it was already fairly full...I used a length of soft copper ground wire as a "snake". Also found it helpful to squirt about 1/2 bottle of dishwashing liquid down the hole. The soap lubed everything up nice and slick. It still required a couple hours of push/pull/stop/go until I got the transducer cable up to the console. Quite an ordeal.

If I ever replace my GPS/fishfinder, I hope I am able to buy a unit compatible with my cable, because I surely do not want to try R&R'ing me existing cable.

Hopefully your 190 will be easier.


Whalerdog posted 06-24-2010 09:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
Should have the GPS next week. Thanks for the tips keep you posted.
Rick U posted 06-24-2010 11:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Rick U  Send Email to Rick U     
Someone mentioned that the 190 has 2 tunnels. The port tunnel should have more room and might be a better option for the transducer cable because you wont be running parallel to other wires. Less potential electrical interference. I'm not sure where the cable would exit in the splash well. If it exits on the starboard side, the transducer cable will end up be bundled with all the other rigging anyways. I wonder how Whaler does it when the boat is rigged with the electronics package. It might be worth calling their customer support. They are very very helpful.
Graumann posted 06-24-2010 11:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for Graumann  Send Email to Graumann     
The port tube doesn't exit in the spashwell; rather it exits into the bilge area. I reached mine through the port side circular inspection port next to the baitwell (if you have a baitwell). It wasn't easy to run the transducer cable through the empty port tube because of my transducer connection. Good luck!
Whalerdog posted 06-29-2010 06:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
Still waiting for the unit I should have it by the weekend.
Whalerdog posted 07-02-2010 07:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
Got the unit any tips on where to place it? Should I angle it towards the wheel position or is it better at 90* angle to the sides so two can see it? Also when I drill a 3/4" hole to get the wire coupler up to the unit what is the best way to seal the hole around the wires which are way smaller then the hole? I was thinking a grommet and some sealant? Thanks!
Jefecinco posted 07-02-2010 07:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
I flush mounted my GPS/Sounder on the "dash" just to starboard of the binnacle control. It looks a lot like the arrangement in the pictures on the Whaler site. I flush mounted the VHF just to the starboard of the GPS/Sounder. This avoided having anything on the top of the console except the antenna for the VHF which I put on top by choice for good range. The only holes in the console are for the units and the antenna cable and ratchet mount. The antenna cable feeds through the starboard side of the console near the top. All other wiring is done inside the console. It looks good even if it's not optimally usable.

On reflection I'm not sure that was the best choice. It is not always easy to read while underway. I hope to get used to it. On the former boat my GPS/Sounder was gimbal mounted directly in front of the steering wheel and the angle of the device could be adjusted as required. Your compass arrangement may not allow that spot for mounting.

I suggest you use some Gorilla tape and the gimbal to mount the GPS in various places until you find the one that suits you best. You can run the power and transducer cables out through the console door until you make a decision. Just remove the door while you try things out. The Sun's angle may impact your decision. Try different directions of travel and cloud conditions before deciding.

Due to the requirement to drill some pretty large holes (1/4 inch or so) to gimbal mount the unit it's best to be sure. Changing the location after a full installation can look pretty messy.


Whalerdog posted 07-03-2010 09:29 AM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
thanks Butch
davej14 posted 07-03-2010 11:25 AM ET (US)     Profile for davej14  Send Email to davej14     
Use a stainless marine clamshell to cover the hole and cables as they exit. You will not see the hole and there is no need to seal around the cables.

Whalerdog posted 07-03-2010 03:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
Well I got a 5/16 piece of nylon through but no luck getting the transducer line back up to the console. Fitting is 7/8" diameter. Wrap it in tape and tapered it then soaped it but I can't even get my pinkie finger it the tube where the line exits the tube.
Jefecinco posted 07-03-2010 07:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     

Another trick you may try is to make a bend in the transducer cable by bending back the first foot or two and taping it to the cable. This will put that large fitting well behind the bend in the cable. Then secure your pull rope to the cable at the bend. This will enable you to pull a smaller diameter piece through the bottleneck at the floor of the console.

Also, before trying to pull the cable ensure the loop around the cables entering the console has been loosened. If the loop has been loosened you will be able to put a couple of fingers into the mess of wiring and hydraulic hoses where they enter the console. Once everything is loose try to get your pull rope untangled from all the other stuff. You'll know when it's ready to pull because you'll be able to easily find slack in the rope.

Once everything is free you should have no trouble pulling the transducer cable into the console. It may help if you can have a friend place some gentle resistance on the transducer cable so that you are not trying to pull any kinks. It will be up to the friend to keep the cable feeding straight and true.

Once you have the cable where you want it tighten the loop at the floor of the console where all the cables enter.


jimh posted 07-04-2010 09:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
If the tube is really packed, you may have to pull out a couple of the existing cables to make enough room for the large connector to pass. Once it is through you can pull the smaller cables back through the tunnel.

One caution: if the tunnel is really packed with electrical cables, you may not want the SONAR cable running though there. The proximity to the engine harness and other electrical cables may induce interference into the SONAR.

alfred posted 07-04-2010 10:53 AM ET (US)     Profile for alfred  Send Email to alfred     
To pull the transducer connector thru, I fashioned a simple rig using a bead of the same or slightly larger diameter as the connector. I attached this to the pull line and then attached the connector trailing behind the bead. This way when I pulled, the tension was on the bead and if the bead could get pass, the connector would follow easily. Worked well for me.
Whalerdog posted 07-04-2010 11:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
I have to pull the cable from the rear forward as the cable is hardwired to the transducer and that is real large. I can't even get it started in the rear it all seems so tight, There is nothing else in the boat optional to crowd the tunnel. It is so hard to work through the little access plate in the rear it is like putting your arm in a grinder. I pulled the boot off in the console and the battery to have more room to work.

I taped up the bulge to make a nice taper to the fitting which it 7/8". I have no clue why they cannot leave a lot more room to run stuff in the boat Seems like I can't even find a spot to stick my finger in at the rear. I will have to get my mechanic mirror and see if I can look better. PO'ed on the 4th I ended up like this with the boat apart.

I ask my friend who has a marina to just get me a price to supply and install it. After 4 calls to him and yea I'll get back to you I gave up. Looks like I'll be in the Kayak today to blow off some steam rowing NY to Ireland!

alfred posted 07-04-2010 12:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for alfred  Send Email to alfred     
Oh - there might be some expanded foam in there! You will need to get in and take a good look. There was some in mine, once that was cleared, it was easier.
alfred posted 07-04-2010 12:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for alfred  Send Email to alfred     
Feed the plastic pull thru from the front, if you are going to use one, you can tie the installed pull thru to it, to pull it back.

What I did before trying to run any wires thru, was to pull thru another 2 strings, so that I had a couple spare ones in place, just in case I slipped up and pulled the original one out.

Jefecinco posted 07-04-2010 04:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     

Man, that has to be frustrating!!

If I understand you correctly you are not able to even get the transducer cable started at the stern end of the port side rigging tunnel which is empty. The rigging tunnel is approximately two inches in diameter and there should be absolutely no resistance to pull until you reach the area beneath the console floor when other cables make the area a little crowded.

Did you find the pull cable at the stern end of the rigging tunnel was secured to the open end of the tunnel with a wire tie? This is difficult to see and to remove the wire tie by cutting it must be done by feel. You can get a decent view of the whole affair by sticking your head into the bilge space though the motor well panel above the bilge pump. Be careful. When I was trying to work in there I got over balanced and had to struggle to get out.

The only two things I can think of are that the rigging tunnel may have some foam in it or possibly the pull rope is somehow remaining stuck at the rigging tunnel stern entrance. Perhaps when the wire tie was removed the rope became wrapped around the tunnel opening. Does the pull rope move easily when it is not attached to the transducer cable? If so, I believe the tunnel may be partially obstructed. If not, the rope is probably catching somewhere.

Get someone to give you a hand with this. If the tunnel seems to be obstructed get your helper to help you pull the pull rope back and forth for a while to try and loosen any obstruction. If it is foam the back and forth action may cut it just like a two man saw. Also try to ensure the pull rope is totally free at both ends. Mine had a wire tie holding the pull rope at both ends. Because there were two pull ropes side by side in the console it took a moment for me to determine which rope was for which tunnel. For that reason when I got it worked out I used an indelible marker to indicate on the label which rope was for which tunnel.


Whalerdog posted 07-04-2010 06:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
Got the wire in the other tube finally today. No clue why It didn't go yesterday and I tried 3 times and even walked away form it. Today it goes right in, I had to go it twice as I forgot it had to start from the engine well and I could no get the transducer through.

I wired it up and plugged it in and it does not turn on. So I figure may be I have a bad crimp connection. Take out my test light to check the plug end that goes into unit and I have power to one of the female pin receptacles unfortunately. Fixing a connection would be easier than sending this unit back. No luck with this project. You press light button and hold for 3 seconds to turn on and off. Had the honey try it with no luck either. Well the wire did not defeat me the rest is someone else's problem. Thanks for all the support while I was going crazy. Keep you posted on the rest of the repairs.

Jefecinco posted 07-05-2010 10:32 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
Congratulations on getting that cable pulled.

By all means check those crimps. I found that I'd done a poor job on one of my crimps because when I was working inside the console to pull cable and do some bundling for appearance a little too much pressure on my VHF ground pulled the wire right out of the crimp-on ring connector. It took me a while with a voltmeter to get it figured out because the end of the wire remained in the connector but without touching the metal ring.


Whalerdog posted 07-06-2010 12:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
Unit had power to the proper pin so I sent the unit back today to be fixed. Guess I got a lemon as usual. Probably take 19 days before I see it again, Sad saga but there are worse things in life for sure.
Whalerdog posted 07-19-2010 06:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
Now they say another 2 weeks to get this dam thing back. Boy am I MAD!
Rick U posted 07-19-2010 08:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for Rick U  Send Email to Rick U     
I put a Garmin 545s on my Montauk and the unit was buggy. I called West Marine and they exchanged the head unit with a new one. Great service and they price matched. I was back in action within an hour. Where did you buy your Garmin?
Whalerdog posted 07-20-2010 07:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
Star Marine It was over 160 cheaper than the local store. My luck I got a lemon. I went to the local store where they were 570 three weeks earlier and it was 620. I said I'll take it if he dropped below 600 but now he won't budge so I bought it online. As the summer passes I am mad but their are worse things in life,
Whalerdog posted 07-27-2010 08:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
They sent an entire new unit with brakets and transducer included. Guess I'll hook it up this week end.
Jefecinco posted 07-28-2010 10:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     

I hope this does not mean you will have to pull another transducer cable.

If it does you will at least be highly experienced in that enterprise and it should be easy for you.


Whalerdog posted 07-28-2010 10:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
Got the new unit and bingo second unit does not power up. I have 12.5 volts to the female plug and it still doesn't light up the GPS. No clue now. Glad I didn't cut console and mount bracket. I almost threw it in the water tonight. The honey can deal with them tomorrow when she calls!.
Rick U posted 07-28-2010 10:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for Rick U  Send Email to Rick U     
What a bummer. Did you try the new harness?
Mavenmatt posted 07-28-2010 10:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for Mavenmatt  Send Email to Mavenmatt     
WOW, I too just puchased a new to me 07 19 Montauk 115.
About your probem, have you checked polarity. It's hard to believe you can have two bad units not power up!! If you did what kind of GPS is it, so we can avoid!! One trick with with running the wires is to have two people. When it gets stuck, The front person keeps it tight as the rear backs it back a up a couple of inches and the start forawrd again. As far as placement,I wanted to put mine in the dash but you just cannt see when your standing up, unless you 5 foot nothing. I did the test run with double back tape and put in on top of the console and as far right as i could. Now if i do sit it's off to the right of my vision but i can still read it. I did have to drill the one inch hole. That hurt me more than the boat. When finished i put a short piece of RTV soaked rope in the remaing hole. Now it's sealed and will pull out easy! Any pictues??
Jefecinco posted 07-29-2010 10:01 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     

Since this issue is no longer limited to Post Classic Whalers is it time to move it to Electrical?

Sounds as if the problem is not in the head unit. It is waaay unlikely you would get two defective units in a row.

As you are reading 12.5 volts at the female plug your wiring sounds right.

Assuming you did not receive a second defective unit AND that everything is wired correctly what remains to be checked? I would suspect that the final connection is the next logical item to examine.

Sometimes these connectors can be tricky. Once they are correctly aligned and pushed together it is important to ensure the connector is fully engaged with the receptacle and that the tightening ring is completely tight. It could be useful to use a little contact cleaner before connecting to lubricate the pins and sockets. Use the cleaner on both the plug and the socket and take the opportunity to carefully examine the pins to be certain none are bent. If you find a bent pin be very careful when you straighten it. A broken pin can be an expensive problem.


Whalerdog posted 07-29-2010 04:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
Well here is the latest news. I took the new harness and new unit (2nd) and hooked it to a battery in the back of my truck and it powered up great.

Now I look at the two plugs side by side and see some of the 6 female receptacles are buried back in the rubber molded plug. Some are flush to the surface of the plug and looking straight at it you can see a metal end ring showing. Pin recess is at different pin locations on each of the harnesses I have. I am guess manufacturing flaws.

So I call back Lowrance and Matt (the tech) said don't worry if it powers up install it. I said the other pins are for the sonar so what happens if I put this in and the sonar doesn't work due to that pin not connecting because it is recessed? I told him I am not very pleased at this point and if I do an install again and have another dead function I will really be MAD!

So he comes back again with a harness in hand which he said all the receptacles are flush to the surface. He said I better wait for this harness to come and install it.

They bench tested the first unit and said it was dead so in a strange way I was happy about that. So as I wait for another harness the summer slips away week by week. I really wanted to go to some unfamiliar places in the Great South Bay and all around Long Island before summers end.

The construction project I have is 90 miles each way or 2.5-3 hr with traffic each way. Boating will curtailed as I will be very tired after working and driving.

My next thought is to hook the new harness up (not through hull just temp) and just hold the transducer in the water to see if it works.

thanks for the help!

Rick U posted 07-29-2010 09:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for Rick U  Send Email to Rick U     
A friend got an HD-10 and the display was beautiful. The maps fantastic and the sonar absolutely stunning. It just stopped working at about 1 year. After weeks of waiting, they replaced it with a refurbished unit for a price plus delivery charge. They seem to have quality control issues and the customer service could be better. If I were to buy one, I'd just buy refurbished because that's what you end up with anyway.
Marsh posted 08-01-2010 09:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for Marsh  Send Email to Marsh     
My $750.00 Lowrance crapped out after 2 years, so I took the danged thing off and now navigatge the old fashioned way...don't even miss it all that much, most of the time.


Jefecinco posted 08-02-2010 09:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
Buying refurbished electronics can be a very good way to save some serious money. Generally they are sold with a new product warranty. The fact that they have been through the service department provides some comfort.

The problem is availability from a well know and reliable supplier. I would hesitate to buy a refurbished item from a supplier not previously known to me or as a minimum not previously know to members of a forum in which I have some confidence.

Unfortunately there are a lot of stolen or counterfeit items for sale on the net.


Whalerdog posted 08-02-2010 11:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
still waiting for the harness
Whalerdog posted 08-05-2010 05:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
got the new harness and all the pin receptacles look as they should all out to the face of the plug. I'll try to post pictures if I get a chance of the plugs or a link to them. May be a few days as I have a lot going on this week.
Jefecinco posted 08-05-2010 07:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
Sounds like you are good to go.


Whalerdog posted 08-14-2010 07:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdog  Send Email to Whalerdog     
Well it is in and working finally. Funny I ended up with a extra navigation card for the unit when they shopped the new one. Now I need to learn how to use it. Tomorrow or Monday I will yank the boat to install the transducer so I have the sonar working properly.

Did seem to see some things are not exactly where charted. Some bouys were mot as shown and up to 75+ feet off. I was past a bridge about 75' and it showed me right under it. Then other things like a dock corner were right were shown when I passed it.

Boat did 34.xx mph near full of fuel, one person, no gear, and bottom paint. No clue why they had 115 maximum power when I bought it. They should of did the 150 right off the bat.

Thanks for the support, recommendations, and ears when I was very frustrated.

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