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Author Topic:   Generator Water Flow Problem
Ricky posted 01-10-2011 05:16 PM ET (US)   Profile for Ricky   Send Email to Ricky  
Interesting tidbit of problem solving I thought may have interest to other Conquest owners with diesel generators. (Mine is 2005 305 Conquest with Kohler genset)

My Kohler 4EOZ genset was not pumping as much water out the exhaust as it usually does so I thought I would take a look. Bought a new impeller for seawater pump but no help. Pulled a few hoses and poked around with a tie wrap to remove any pluggage which allowed minimal water to flow.

Completely solved the problem today however when I went to change the anode. The new anode would not go all the way into the hole where the old one came out. (The anode looks like a cylindrical piece of zince attached to a brass threaded plug which screws into the unit). Turns out the old anode had broken off where it attachs to the brass plug that screws into the genset. This "cylinder" of zinc had traveled and formed an almost perfect "plug" in the seawaterhose hose thus restricting seawater flow.

Fortunately, it never overheated because I noticed there was inadequate water flow and shut her down before the overtemp circuit engaged.

Moral of story is to change zinc anode frequently (as opposed to the five year interval I used). I have changed impellar routinely but not anode. Weird problem solved.

SouthFla posted 01-12-2011 11:22 AM ET (US)     Profile for SouthFla  Send Email to SouthFla     
Thanks for the heads up Ricky.

Can you post the part number and or link to the anode? And is it a reasonable DIY?? Pretty sure it hasn't been done for at least 4 years if ever on my 4eoz.

handn posted 01-12-2011 06:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for handn  Send Email to handn     
The annode on my Kohler generator wore out in a similar manner, i.e., near the base, with little wear on the top part.
After one near breakoff, I inspected my annode every hundred hours when I changed the oil.
The little impellers go fast also, I suggest changing it every year along with the annode if it lasts that long.
There is a thermal shutoff on the engine. It will shut off when it overheats before damage occurs.
Ricky posted 01-13-2011 08:56 AM ET (US)     Profile for Ricky  Send Email to Ricky     
Easy do-it-yourself job. A 9/16-inch wrench and pipe dope are all that is required. A 7-mm wrench or small socket for impeller.

Impeller PN GM 20852
O Ring PN GM 24031
Anode PN GM 20853

I included impeller and associated o ring since I had them handy.

If you want to be cheap like me, you can buy a Johnson Pump impeller PN 09810B for $22 vs Kohler $58. You still need the Kohler o ring because the Johnson o ring does not fit just right. Sine you should do this every year makes sense to use cheaper part which is identical.

Also, Kohler anode was $32 but for $3.50 at Boat Owners Warehouse you can buy an anode exactly like the Kohler except you have to cut off some of the zinc to specs in Kohler manual (3/4 inch). Again, if doing frequently worth the while.

Hope this helps. Rick

jimh posted 01-14-2011 09:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Great information. Thanks for sharing this with other Boston Whaler boat owners.

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