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Author Topic:   205 Eastport Battery Location

Blind Date posted 03-24-2011 08:59 AM ET (US)
I'm still in the discovery stage with my recently acquired Eastport 205. So far, I love it with one exception. The battery location and access. I know there are some CW folks out there with 205 Eastports/Conquests. What's you're solution to dealing with the batteries? It takes a midget, (Opps, little person) contortionist to see the batteries let alone service them. I'm considering adding an onboard charging system just so I don't have to deal with trying to give them an occasional charge. How have other owners dealt with the battery location?
One other question. I'm ready to install a 4' fiberglass, VHF antenna to the port side of the cuddy, just to the right of the instrument panel. Will that proximity to the smartcraft gages along with a fishfinder and GPS cause any interference? Also should I use a plywood backing plate to stiffen the antenna mount? The fiberglass seems a little thin in that area.
Thanks for any help,
Gary
Blind Date posted 03-24-2011 09:51 AM ET (US)
Make that Starboard side of the cabin. My bad!
Liteamorn posted 03-24-2011 11:29 AM ET (US)
I used a backer for my 8' antenna which I mounted on the starboard side of my cuddy. After I decided where I was going to place it and drilled my holes I actually found a very suitable block to use for backing (which I did not use) . Take your fire extinguisher holder out and look around.
I have a love/hate relationship with the battery location on our boats. They are centered very nicely so they don't affect how the boat sits in the water. They are,however a bear to get to. I did find that the job of installing and removing them is best done with the floor of the cabin as empty as you can get it. My Eastport has a completely removable Porta-Potty on board. My friends however has one permanently installed with pumpout capabilities. His makes the job a lot harder to get to. I have not had a need for a battery charging system. I find that I alternate the battery I use on each trip and they stay nicely charged. I plan to invest in new batteries before they get to the point where i will need to charge them.
Ed
Blind Date posted 03-24-2011 12:05 PM ET (US)
Yeah Ed, I have the installed head with pump out. I can't bend myself into the necessary position to have a clear view of what I'm doing. Mirrors and a flashlight might help but I am hoping for a permanent fix. Am I wrong, if I set the battery switch to "Both", won't the alternator charge both batteries, while underway?
Gary
Liteamorn posted 03-24-2011 12:39 PM ET (US)
Gary
It is never a good idea to run on "Both". If one of your batteries is bad it will take the other battery down with it. I only use "both" in starting situations when one or the other battery do not have the power to start my engine individually. Fortunately That has never happened to me.
When I replace my batteries I intend to use quality batteries. My Interstates have performed very well for me so far. I also make sure that I clean my terminals well before installing them and I do not use wing nuts.
You might want to reassess the necessity of an installed head. I can't tell you how much easier it is to access those batteries without the head. Sans that option I can only recommend a good contortionist.
Jefecinco posted 03-24-2011 06:51 PM ET (US)
Gary,
There are two approached to solve the difficult servicing location of your batteries. The first approach is to relocate them. The second is to replace them with AGM batteries which require virtually no service, you cannot add water.
Since your Eastport is newly acquired the batteries probably have some use on them, their condition is pretty unknown, and due to their location they have probably been neglected since installation. I recommend replacing them with good AGMs of the appropriate size and then pretty much forgetting them.
There is more than one opinion on the question of using the "Both" switch position while running your engines. Many of us, me included, use this method to ensure our batteries are maintained at a good level of charge. Others, as you have read, do not recommend the practice. I believe there is virtually no risk to the practice if the batteries being charged are very similar in age and are of the same make and model.
Instead of a four foot VHF antenna consider an eight foot or use the method recommended in the {"Reference Section" of this site. I use it and it is an outstanding method.
Butch
JMARTIN posted 03-24-2011 10:55 PM ET (US)
How about a gauge that shows you voltage?
John
Blind Date posted 03-25-2011 09:41 AM ET (US)
Thanks, guys, for the info and suggestions.
I don't think I'm going to try and relocate the batteries. Probably stuck with where they are. I may, however make the porta-potty removable to gain better access.
I like the AGM battery idea. Bite the bullet, spend the money and don't worry about them for a couple years. And Yes, the smartcraft gages allow me to monitor voltage.
As far as the antenna goes, I have always had 8 footers on my previous, larger, boats. However, I find that Whalers are not the smoothest riding boats around ( A small price to pay) and the 8' antennas tend to whip in a chop such as I find on many lakes. My use is strictly inshore and lakes, so the 4 footer seems adequate for most situations except Lake Powell. When you get back in the some of the canyons, no signal gets in or out. Even the National Park Service's VHF mega system can't reach out. Additionally, the shorter antenna is less of a problem when fishing so I think it's best for my purposes.
Regards,
Gary
andygere posted 03-25-2011 02:31 PM ET (US)
If you want to automatically charge both batteries and not have to fuss with switching back and forth between them, replace your 1-2-both switch with a switch or switch system that has an integral voltage sensing relay. Compact, easy to wire units are made by Blue Seas and BEP Marine. There are numerous threads on this topic, simply do a search on VSR.
Here's just one of them: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/000612.html
I second the recommendation to switch to AGM batteries when your current wet cell units need replacing. They don't lose charge over time, last a long time and are maintenance free. Easily worth the expense in my opinion.
Liteamorn posted 03-25-2011 04:35 PM ET (US)
What is the maximum cranking power available in AGM batteries? My 2005 150hp Optimax call for 1000 Cold cranking amps.
andygere posted 03-25-2011 05:19 PM ET (US)
Does the 150 Opti need 1000 CCA or MCA? Either way, this reference from Optima Batteries shows ratings for various AGMs that they manufacture. I'd trust the literature from my Outboard motor over this in terms of the battery spec for your application though.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/battery_selector/marine.php
For what it's worth, I've had a pair of Optima Blue Top batteries for several years now and have had great performance. Mine are Group 27s, but they fit easily into standard Group 24 battery boxes.
Blind Date posted 03-26-2011 08:51 AM ET (US)
Thanks Andy. Good information on the Optima Batteries. First time I've seen that kind of a starting requirement chart.
Gary
HawaiianWhaler posted 03-28-2011 10:04 AM ET (US)
At the risk of having this thread moved to the Electrical Forum, I wonder if an outboard motor will sufficiently and properly charge an AGM battery? I don't know; I'm just asking. Here's a link to Optima's requirements for battery charging: http://www.optimabatteries.com/product_support/charging.php
The requirement that an alternator have "no amperage limit" gives me pause, as does the finishing rate requirements for cyclic operation of the dual purpose models. What say ye, continuouswave experts?
andygere posted 03-28-2011 01:41 PM ET (US)
I think the term "no amperage limit" means the battery can handle the amperage output of any alternator. In other words, no alternator puts out to much current for this battery.
In terms of actual experience, the alternator on my E-TEC 200 has done a great job of charging a pair of Optima Blue Tops in my Outrage for several years now. I've yet to need to use any other charging source since installing them.
Dela329 posted 03-30-2011 05:30 PM ET (US)
I just had a similar experience last weekend removing the batteries on an Eastport I bought over the winter. I cursed my last Conquest for nearly breaking my back every time I had to get at the batteries. But this is a new kind of torture for a grown man to talk about! I did manage to get the cells out by laying flat on the cockpit floor and balancing my head on a box on the cabin deck.
I ended up snapping one of the plastic studs that hold the battery bracket in place - but they are out!
Probably good advice to put high quality cells back in it. This way I have a couple of seasons to think up a better location or rig up a rolling tray design.
Blind Date posted 03-30-2011 09:44 PM ET (US)
I've considered rolling trays myself. Has anyone out there rigged rolling trays for hard to reach batteries?
Jefecinco posted 03-31-2011 08:32 AM ET (US)
The problem with rolling trays in a marine environment is maintenance of the tray rollers. Certainly it would be possible to use them. Matter of fact a motorhome I just sold had a rolling tray for the two AGM batteries used for house DC power and generator starting. Access to the trays was good but the rollers required frequent greasing to remain free rolling. Perhaps a stainless steel version is available.
Due to the cantilever effect when the tray is extended you would want to install it with some robust hardware. Use of AGMs would eliminate any chance that electrolyte can boil over and damage a tray but would also be a consideration when choosing mounting hardware due to the added weight.
Just about any RV outlet would have or could get you a tray. I don't recall the brand name but a google search for sliding battery tray should get you pointed in the right way. Zee Dee comes to mind but use google.
Butch
Dela329 posted 05-09-2011 01:07 PM ET (US)
I finally decided to do something about the inconvenient battery location on my Eastport 205 by installing a sliding battery tray. I found one (Kwikee) from an RV parts supplier that should work fine in fresh water boats as it is only powder coated and not stainless.
Installation:
It's a royal pain to get in a semi-comfortable position to pull out the old trays and install the new one. Removing the head gave me enough room to get corkscrewed into the space and remove the old trays. Cleaned up the 5 years of crud in the hold, then sealed the old tray holes drilled a few new ones. All done in a couple of hours - easy stuff. The tray and glides didn't seem to have any issues with the weight when fully extended. It makes access much easier!
One thing I discovered in the hold was a drain and plug down there. The plug was removed but the drain opening was plugged up with leaves and other debris that collected at that low point. That could pose a real problem if you were depending on the cabin floor to drain in the event of a swamping.

https://picasaweb.google.com/108171148807025113196/RecentlyUpdated#
Liteamorn posted 05-14-2011 09:18 AM ET (US)
That's a real nice set up. my boat is in a salt water environment most of the time. I fear that if it isn't stainless I would eventually rust up .
David1877 posted 05-15-2011 11:56 PM ET (US)
I have an Eastport 205. I dread the spring install and fall battery removal.
Last year I pulled the plumbed porta potti and sealed the hoses. We never used it anyway. Having the extra space makes access to the batteries less troublesome.
I looked at RV battery trays as well. I questioned if it would have the space to slide out as the cuddy is curved. Even a few inches would help.

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Author	Topic: 205 Eastport Battery Location
Blind Date	posted 03-24-2011 08:59 AM ET (US) I'm still in the discovery stage with my recently acquired Eastport 205. So far, I love it with one exception. The battery location and access. I know there are some CW folks out there with 205 Eastports/Conquests. What's you're solution to dealing with the batteries? It takes a midget, (Opps, little person) contortionist to see the batteries let alone service them. I'm considering adding an onboard charging system just so I don't have to deal with trying to give them an occasional charge. How have other owners dealt with the battery location? One other question. I'm ready to install a 4' fiberglass, VHF antenna to the port side of the cuddy, just to the right of the instrument panel. Will that proximity to the smartcraft gages along with a fishfinder and GPS cause any interference? Also should I use a plywood backing plate to stiffen the antenna mount? The fiberglass seems a little thin in that area. Thanks for any help, Gary
Blind Date	posted 03-24-2011 09:51 AM ET (US) Make that Starboard side of the cabin. My bad!
Liteamorn	posted 03-24-2011 11:29 AM ET (US) I used a backer for my 8' antenna which I mounted on the starboard side of my cuddy. After I decided where I was going to place it and drilled my holes I actually found a very suitable block to use for backing (which I did not use) . Take your fire extinguisher holder out and look around. I have a love/hate relationship with the battery location on our boats. They are centered very nicely so they don't affect how the boat sits in the water. They are,however a bear to get to. I did find that the job of installing and removing them is best done with the floor of the cabin as empty as you can get it. My Eastport has a completely removable Porta-Potty on board. My friends however has one permanently installed with pumpout capabilities. His makes the job a lot harder to get to. I have not had a need for a battery charging system. I find that I alternate the battery I use on each trip and they stay nicely charged. I plan to invest in new batteries before they get to the point where i will need to charge them. Ed
Blind Date	posted 03-24-2011 12:05 PM ET (US) Yeah Ed, I have the installed head with pump out. I can't bend myself into the necessary position to have a clear view of what I'm doing. Mirrors and a flashlight might help but I am hoping for a permanent fix. Am I wrong, if I set the battery switch to "Both", won't the alternator charge both batteries, while underway? Gary
Liteamorn	posted 03-24-2011 12:39 PM ET (US) Gary It is never a good idea to run on "Both". If one of your batteries is bad it will take the other battery down with it. I only use "both" in starting situations when one or the other battery do not have the power to start my engine individually. Fortunately That has never happened to me. When I replace my batteries I intend to use quality batteries. My Interstates have performed very well for me so far. I also make sure that I clean my terminals well before installing them and I do not use wing nuts. You might want to reassess the necessity of an installed head. I can't tell you how much easier it is to access those batteries without the head. Sans that option I can only recommend a good contortionist.
Jefecinco	posted 03-24-2011 06:51 PM ET (US) Gary, There are two approached to solve the difficult servicing location of your batteries. The first approach is to relocate them. The second is to replace them with AGM batteries which require virtually no service, you cannot add water. Since your Eastport is newly acquired the batteries probably have some use on them, their condition is pretty unknown, and due to their location they have probably been neglected since installation. I recommend replacing them with good AGMs of the appropriate size and then pretty much forgetting them. There is more than one opinion on the question of using the "Both" switch position while running your engines. Many of us, me included, use this method to ensure our batteries are maintained at a good level of charge. Others, as you have read, do not recommend the practice. I believe there is virtually no risk to the practice if the batteries being charged are very similar in age and are of the same make and model. Instead of a four foot VHF antenna consider an eight foot or use the method recommended in the {"Reference Section" of this site. I use it and it is an outstanding method. Butch
JMARTIN	posted 03-24-2011 10:55 PM ET (US) How about a gauge that shows you voltage? John
Blind Date	posted 03-25-2011 09:41 AM ET (US) Thanks, guys, for the info and suggestions. I don't think I'm going to try and relocate the batteries. Probably stuck with where they are. I may, however make the porta-potty removable to gain better access. I like the AGM battery idea. Bite the bullet, spend the money and don't worry about them for a couple years. And Yes, the smartcraft gages allow me to monitor voltage. As far as the antenna goes, I have always had 8 footers on my previous, larger, boats. However, I find that Whalers are not the smoothest riding boats around ( A small price to pay) and the 8' antennas tend to whip in a chop such as I find on many lakes. My use is strictly inshore and lakes, so the 4 footer seems adequate for most situations except Lake Powell. When you get back in the some of the canyons, no signal gets in or out. Even the National Park Service's VHF mega system can't reach out. Additionally, the shorter antenna is less of a problem when fishing so I think it's best for my purposes. Regards, Gary
andygere	posted 03-25-2011 02:31 PM ET (US) If you want to automatically charge both batteries and not have to fuss with switching back and forth between them, replace your 1-2-both switch with a switch or switch system that has an integral voltage sensing relay. Compact, easy to wire units are made by Blue Seas and BEP Marine. There are numerous threads on this topic, simply do a search on VSR. Here's just one of them: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/000612.html I second the recommendation to switch to AGM batteries when your current wet cell units need replacing. They don't lose charge over time, last a long time and are maintenance free. Easily worth the expense in my opinion.
Liteamorn	posted 03-25-2011 04:35 PM ET (US) What is the maximum cranking power available in AGM batteries? My 2005 150hp Optimax call for 1000 Cold cranking amps.
andygere	posted 03-25-2011 05:19 PM ET (US) Does the 150 Opti need 1000 CCA or MCA? Either way, this reference from Optima Batteries shows ratings for various AGMs that they manufacture. I'd trust the literature from my Outboard motor over this in terms of the battery spec for your application though. http://www.optimabatteries.com/battery_selector/marine.php For what it's worth, I've had a pair of Optima Blue Top batteries for several years now and have had great performance. Mine are Group 27s, but they fit easily into standard Group 24 battery boxes.
Blind Date	posted 03-26-2011 08:51 AM ET (US) Thanks Andy. Good information on the Optima Batteries. First time I've seen that kind of a starting requirement chart. Gary
HawaiianWhaler	posted 03-28-2011 10:04 AM ET (US) At the risk of having this thread moved to the Electrical Forum, I wonder if an outboard motor will sufficiently and properly charge an AGM battery? I don't know; I'm just asking. Here's a link to Optima's requirements for battery charging: http://www.optimabatteries.com/product_support/charging.php The requirement that an alternator have "no amperage limit" gives me pause, as does the finishing rate requirements for cyclic operation of the dual purpose models. What say ye, continuouswave experts?
andygere	posted 03-28-2011 01:41 PM ET (US) I think the term "no amperage limit" means the battery can handle the amperage output of any alternator. In other words, no alternator puts out to much current for this battery. In terms of actual experience, the alternator on my E-TEC 200 has done a great job of charging a pair of Optima Blue Tops in my Outrage for several years now. I've yet to need to use any other charging source since installing them.
Dela329	posted 03-30-2011 05:30 PM ET (US) I just had a similar experience last weekend removing the batteries on an Eastport I bought over the winter. I cursed my last Conquest for nearly breaking my back every time I had to get at the batteries. But this is a new kind of torture for a grown man to talk about! I did manage to get the cells out by laying flat on the cockpit floor and balancing my head on a box on the cabin deck. I ended up snapping one of the plastic studs that hold the battery bracket in place - but they are out! Probably good advice to put high quality cells back in it. This way I have a couple of seasons to think up a better location or rig up a rolling tray design.
Blind Date	posted 03-30-2011 09:44 PM ET (US) I've considered rolling trays myself. Has anyone out there rigged rolling trays for hard to reach batteries?
Jefecinco	posted 03-31-2011 08:32 AM ET (US) The problem with rolling trays in a marine environment is maintenance of the tray rollers. Certainly it would be possible to use them. Matter of fact a motorhome I just sold had a rolling tray for the two AGM batteries used for house DC power and generator starting. Access to the trays was good but the rollers required frequent greasing to remain free rolling. Perhaps a stainless steel version is available. Due to the cantilever effect when the tray is extended you would want to install it with some robust hardware. Use of AGMs would eliminate any chance that electrolyte can boil over and damage a tray but would also be a consideration when choosing mounting hardware due to the added weight. Just about any RV outlet would have or could get you a tray. I don't recall the brand name but a google search for sliding battery tray should get you pointed in the right way. Zee Dee comes to mind but use google. Butch
Dela329	posted 05-09-2011 01:07 PM ET (US) I finally decided to do something about the inconvenient battery location on my Eastport 205 by installing a sliding battery tray. I found one (Kwikee) from an RV parts supplier that should work fine in fresh water boats as it is only powder coated and not stainless. Installation: It's a royal pain to get in a semi-comfortable position to pull out the old trays and install the new one. Removing the head gave me enough room to get corkscrewed into the space and remove the old trays. Cleaned up the 5 years of crud in the hold, then sealed the old tray holes drilled a few new ones. All done in a couple of hours - easy stuff. The tray and glides didn't seem to have any issues with the weight when fully extended. It makes access much easier! One thing I discovered in the hold was a drain and plug down there. The plug was removed but the drain opening was plugged up with leaves and other debris that collected at that low point. That could pose a real problem if you were depending on the cabin floor to drain in the event of a swamping. https://picasaweb.google.com/108171148807025113196/RecentlyUpdated#
Liteamorn	posted 05-14-2011 09:18 AM ET (US) That's a real nice set up. my boat is in a salt water environment most of the time. I fear that if it isn't stainless I would eventually rust up .
David1877	posted 05-15-2011 11:56 PM ET (US) I have an Eastport 205. I dread the spring install and fall battery removal. Last year I pulled the plumbed porta potti and sealed the hoses. We never used it anyway. Having the extra space makes access to the batteries less troublesome. I looked at RV battery trays as well. I questioned if it would have the space to slide out as the cuddy is curved. Even a few inches would help.