HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE STARBOARD FRAME INSIDE THE HARDTOP ELECTRONICS BOX CONQUEST 23

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  HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE STARBOARD FRAME INSIDE THE HARDTOP ELECTRONICS BOX CONQUEST 23

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Author Topic:   HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE STARBOARD FRAME INSIDE THE HARDTOP ELECTRONICS BOX CONQUEST 23

DONNA MARIE posted 04-08-2011 01:40 PM ET (US)
I am trying to fit an HDS8 in my Hartop electronics box. I 'almost' fits. If I could remove all the "starboard" I could get it to fit by making special cuts at home. Are those screws under the door seal?
Bella con23 posted 04-08-2011 03:26 PM ET (US)
On the 23 Conquest hardtop electronic box you need to remove the 12 or so screws holding the face and door into the fiberglass.
Careful removing the last screw as the face, door, and insert is heavy and wants to slide out of its fiberglass frame.
Joe
DONNA MARIE posted 04-09-2011 11:27 AM ET (US)
Am I correct in assuming that the screws are located under that rubber door seal? I didn't want to damage it just to look. The starboard does appear to be heavy (close to 1/2inch thick?) Thanks Joe very much for the advice, the ice is clearing and I am anxious to finish my projects.
David Pendleton posted 04-09-2011 06:15 PM ET (US)
Look at this picture, I have circled the screws you need to remove.
Remove the bottom ones first, then the top, leaving the top two corners for last. Use your hands to hold the box in place while remove the last two. Then let the box slide out. It weighs about 20 pounds.
http://members.tcq.net/davepen/images/dsc00626.jpg
DONNA MARIE posted 04-09-2011 07:42 PM ET (US)
I will give that a try. Nice to see a picture of my exact electronics box and making it idiot-proof for me. Thanks very much David. Cheers!
tom976 posted 04-11-2011 09:45 AM ET (US)
I you want to seperate the black starboard from the faceplate after it is removed, the black rubber seal gets removed. Before you remove anything, take the clear plastic door off and put it aside. (easy break, hard to replace)
Tom
David Pendleton posted 04-11-2011 02:29 PM ET (US)
Once you have the entire e-box out of the top, the back of the box is easily removed. It is held is place by four smaller strips of starboard and a dozen or so screws.
There's no need to remove the weatherstripping or the door (unless you're really concerned about breaking it). I remove my e-box several times a season and haven't broken it yet.
While you have the back out, make note of the exact measurements of it. The dimensions of mine at least were a little odd. When it comes time to install new or different electronics it's a pain to fit a new back without the original measurements.
I know this from experience.
DONNA MARIE posted 04-20-2011 10:14 PM ET (US)
I took the HDS8 template and cut it out of the sheet from the installation paperwork. I pressed it up against the starboard in the Electronics Box (with the cover glass removed). It was an exact fit, meaning with the starboard in tact, I couldn't get the HDS8 past the opening in the box. Using the hole saw in 4 corners and an Oscillating saw with a straight blade the plastic cut great (about 15-20minutes of buzzing away). The HDS8 fit like a glove and I was able to put the bezel on with no effort. Radar going in next week. Thanks everyone!
David Pendleton posted 04-22-2011 10:10 AM ET (US)
Glad to hear it worked out for you.
As you can see by my picture, there's no way in heck my display is fitting in there...

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Author	Topic: HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE STARBOARD FRAME INSIDE THE HARDTOP ELECTRONICS BOX CONQUEST 23
DONNA MARIE	posted 04-08-2011 01:40 PM ET (US) I am trying to fit an HDS8 in my Hartop electronics box. I 'almost' fits. If I could remove all the "starboard" I could get it to fit by making special cuts at home. Are those screws under the door seal?
Bella con23	posted 04-08-2011 03:26 PM ET (US) On the 23 Conquest hardtop electronic box you need to remove the 12 or so screws holding the face and door into the fiberglass. Careful removing the last screw as the face, door, and insert is heavy and wants to slide out of its fiberglass frame. Joe
DONNA MARIE	posted 04-09-2011 11:27 AM ET (US) Am I correct in assuming that the screws are located under that rubber door seal? I didn't want to damage it just to look. The starboard does appear to be heavy (close to 1/2inch thick?) Thanks Joe very much for the advice, the ice is clearing and I am anxious to finish my projects.
David Pendleton	posted 04-09-2011 06:15 PM ET (US) Look at this picture, I have circled the screws you need to remove. Remove the bottom ones first, then the top, leaving the top two corners for last. Use your hands to hold the box in place while remove the last two. Then let the box slide out. It weighs about 20 pounds. http://members.tcq.net/davepen/images/dsc00626.jpg
DONNA MARIE	posted 04-09-2011 07:42 PM ET (US) I will give that a try. Nice to see a picture of my exact electronics box and making it idiot-proof for me. Thanks very much David. Cheers!
tom976	posted 04-11-2011 09:45 AM ET (US) I you want to seperate the black starboard from the faceplate after it is removed, the black rubber seal gets removed. Before you remove anything, take the clear plastic door off and put it aside. (easy break, hard to replace) Tom
David Pendleton	posted 04-11-2011 02:29 PM ET (US) Once you have the entire e-box out of the top, the back of the box is easily removed. It is held is place by four smaller strips of starboard and a dozen or so screws. There's no need to remove the weatherstripping or the door (unless you're really concerned about breaking it). I remove my e-box several times a season and haven't broken it yet. While you have the back out, make note of the exact measurements of it. The dimensions of mine at least were a little odd. When it comes time to install new or different electronics it's a pain to fit a new back without the original measurements. I know this from experience.
DONNA MARIE	posted 04-20-2011 10:14 PM ET (US) I took the HDS8 template and cut it out of the sheet from the installation paperwork. I pressed it up against the starboard in the Electronics Box (with the cover glass removed). It was an exact fit, meaning with the starboard in tact, I couldn't get the HDS8 past the opening in the box. Using the hole saw in 4 corners and an Oscillating saw with a straight blade the plastic cut great (about 15-20minutes of buzzing away). The HDS8 fit like a glove and I was able to put the bezel on with no effort. Radar going in next week. Thanks everyone!
David Pendleton	posted 04-22-2011 10:10 AM ET (US) Glad to hear it worked out for you. As you can see by my picture, there's no way in heck my display is fitting in there...