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Author Topic:   Preparing Boat and Motor For Saltwater Use

Alanson posted 09-19-2011 01:13 PM ET (US)
After six wonderful years boating on northern Michigan's inland lakes, my 2005 Montauk and I are moving to a new home in Charleston, South Carolina. I'm extremely excited about the experiencing saltwater boating and fishing--especially in winter--but would like some advise on preparing my fresh water motor for saltwater use. I called [Boston Whaler]. The representative recommended I relax, get out on the boat, and flush after each use. He went on to explain that the main differences between my [outboard engine, a 2005 Mercury 90-HP FOURSTROKE model] and the Saltwater version were a few stainless steel parts and a big decal.
Are there other steps or modifications that I should consider before I launch? Thanks

macfam posted 09-19-2011 02:40 PM ET (US)
Alanson,
Trailered or in-water?
If it's in water for more than a week or two, anti-fouling bottom paint on your hull is mandatory.
If you trailer, be SURE to replace wheel grease caps with "Bearing Buddies" with grease zercs.
Make sure any sacraficial zincs (trim fin) on your engine are not painted.
Remove prop, and use TRIPLE GUARD GREASE (blue/purple)on splines and replace prop. (It sucks to have a prop corroded onto the shaft)
Grease all zercs on your outboards...(guess what grease I use)
Clean and lube all battery connections. Tighten the nut on battery terminals with a wrench. Salt air can corrode connections and terminals faster than you are accustomed.
You'll thank me for suggesting you add a STEERSMAN NUT to your steering, where the rod exits the tube. The o-ring will keep the corrosive salt water out ot the tube, and keep grease from harding. Again, use TRIPLE GUARD GREASE. How often have you seen threads that start "Help, Steering frozen"..........This will prevent it from happening.
Now.....go out and enjoy the best boating...........
ivansfo posted 09-19-2011 06:44 PM ET (US)
Got this tip from CW member bsmotril nearly a decade ago.
Take off the engine cowling and spray anti-corrosion spray on all rust prone parts. To me that's pretty much everything besides electrical. This regiment has worked out nicely on my 10 year old Conquest that is used exclusively in salt.
Alanson posted 09-21-2011 12:08 PM ET (US)
Thanks macfan & ivansfo for the info.
One question regarding Bearing Buddies.
I have a Karavan trailer that has the Sure Lube system. Under the rubber dust cap there's grease zerk that presses into a hole that goes all the way thru the center of the spindle & comes out by the back bearing. At that point it greases the back bearing and fills the inside of the hub. It then greases the front bearing and when you see grease coming out of the castle nut, the hub & bearings should be full.
Does this function the same way as the Buddy Bearings?
Thanks again for your help.
And macfan, I will use TRIPLE GUARD GREASE (blue/purple)!!!
L H G posted 09-21-2011 01:07 PM ET (US)
As for the possibility of engine powerhead corrosion itself, remember that it is a Yamaha built engine. So corrosion on/in that part of the outboard would be related to how well Yamaha's hold up in salt.
As for the Mercury components, such as the mid and lower units, the only real issues that I would recommend watching are the steering yoke and tilt tube. On salt water models, those were stainless. On yours, they are not.
Keep the tilt tube and steering ram well geased, and PROPERLY install a 1" size Steersman grease nut ($25). You could also have the tilt tube upgraded with an SS replacement. When installing the Steersman on a Merc, YOU MUST FIRST PULL THE STEERING AT LEAST HALF WAY OUT OF THE ENGINE AND REMOVE THE TILT TUBE FACTORY O-RING on the port exit. The Steersman replaces the factory port side nut also. This permits you to work grease into the tilt tube and gives the Steersman a chance to do it's job, work properly and be maintained easily.
At least once a year, remove the link arm and Steersman nut, clean up the old grease and steering ram, re-grease and re-install. Your steering will last and work well forever. Don't forget that the Steersman needs it's own new O-ring once a year, or more often if necessary.
I own a bunch of Mercurys and have found them to be excellent in corrosion resistance. Be sure to use Mercury/Quicksilver brand anodes only, which are aluminum based and provide the best salt protection. DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET ZINCS. They are old technology and provide only half the protection. If your engine has the blacked out trim tab, replace it with an aluminum one for extra protection.
K Albus posted 09-21-2011 01:29 PM ET (US)
Larry makes a good point. If your engine was properly set up for freshwater use, it will have magnesium anodes. Those should be switched to aluminum or zinc anodes for saltwater use.
macfam posted 09-21-2011 01:44 PM ET (US)
Alanson,
The Karavan lube system is a bit different that Bearing Buddies, and perhaps better.
The idea of the Bearing Buddies is to load with grease under slight pressure from a spring loaded diaphram.
When the warm/hot wheel is immersed in water, and there is some grease/air contraction, the spring keeps the diaphram tight not allowing intrusion of water or worse, salt water.
They just prevent the corrosive salt water form coming into direct contact with steel bearings.
I'm sure you are good with Karavan's system.
L H G posted 09-21-2011 02:20 PM ET (US)
The newer Spindle-Lube system has been around for about 10 years, and is now almost 100% used by the new trailer builders. My last two Continental keel roller trailers came with them, and I could not even order a plain spindle/Bearing Buddy system any longer.
Actually, I like them better, and they seem to keep water out better, and run better, no bearing covers needed. Plus, you have the knowledge that you have pumped brand new grease though the bearings, so re-packing becomes a thing of the past. For me, so far, so good.
Alanson posted 09-21-2011 09:04 PM ET (US)
Thanks to all for the great info. Continuous Wave help me choose my 1st Whaler and has been a great community helping me enjoy my BW Montauk.
Steve
Whalerdog posted 05-31-2012 09:33 PM ET (US)
Flush your motor after each use for 5 minutes or a bit longer.
whaler1234 posted 05-31-2012 10:05 PM ET (US)
Drop the lower unit and grease the splines religiously every year regardless of hours. This includes the prop. I definitely learned the hard way. The dealer was unable to remove mine, so I ended up buying a new motor. Sadly I only had less than a hundred hours on a perfectly good motor. Things I'll do differently with my new motor are: in addition to what was already mentioned.. use saltaway after EVERY outing and frequently check the water jackets for corrosion buildup, check the thermostat for corrosion, reverse flush the water pressure sender line, use only ethanol free fuel..now that its readily available for me, watch for chips dand repair as necessary before the rust spot gets any bigger.
JTC posted 06-05-2012 09:16 AM ET (US)
For what it's worth, I have two "salt water" whalers: My 28 Conquest, I keep in a slip and religiously flush the motors after each trip because I have access to fresh water (and because I just put brand new motors on it last year). However my '96 20 Dauntless is on a mooring with no fresh water nearby. Thus the motor (still the original Johnson 175 HP) NEVER gets flushed except at the end of the season. The Johnson is still running GREAT -- I did have to replace the tilt motor a couple of years ago, but otherwise it's been perfect.
So bottom line, don't worry too much. Obviously if you can flush the motors and rinse off the saltwater you should, but I woudn't freak out if you can't or miss it...
tom976 posted 06-05-2012 09:52 AM ET (US)
If the boat is NOT kept in the water, nothing is needed except flushing out the motor at the end of the day.
If its kept in the water, check your motor and see if it uses magnesium anodes or zincs. Magnesium is for freshwater and zincs are used for salt water. (although some do use them in freshwater)
Tom
SC Joe posted 06-05-2012 06:55 PM ET (US)
The water pressure sender tube orifice on the engine will clog up with salt after only a few times usage no matter how much the engine is flushed. Get used to taking it apart and manually cleaning it with a small awl or welding tip cleaners.
Whalerdog posted 07-03-2012 09:57 PM ET (US)
never had it clog since I got mine in 07
swist posted 07-05-2012 12:54 PM ET (US)
I've been through many years of OMC, Yamaha, & Merc outboards in exclusively saltwater. I flush my engines with freshwater once, at the end of the season. Never had any kind of salt buildup or water passage corrosion issues.
(The same cannot be said for the longevity of certain non-cooling related components of pre-"Saltwater Series" Yamahas)
I know that many people feel otherwise, but salt is soluble in saltwater and should flush the engine as well as freshwater - at least I never saw any buildup. My boats were always used regularly in season, and I'm sure that is a factor also.
surfkast posted 07-28-2012 05:06 PM ET (US)
I have a 2006 Montauk 170 that is used exclusively in salt water. I trailer it to launch in San Diego. After the last 6 years I'd say the only thing I do is make sure to flush the engine, and rinse all the metal (and dry the rails, etc). Boat is fine. The trailer springs are rusting as the trailer bunks have a lot of salt water on them and it's pretty hard to get it all out. I think it drips out slowly even after I rinse it. Other than that, no problems. Rinse the trailer thoroughly every time, replace zincs. One thing, the lower unit was very difficult to take off after 2-3 years. I'd make sure to take off and grease.

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Author	Topic: Preparing Boat and Motor For Saltwater Use
Alanson	posted 09-19-2011 01:13 PM ET (US) After six wonderful years boating on northern Michigan's inland lakes, my 2005 Montauk and I are moving to a new home in Charleston, South Carolina. I'm extremely excited about the experiencing saltwater boating and fishing--especially in winter--but would like some advise on preparing my fresh water motor for saltwater use. I called [Boston Whaler]. The representative recommended I relax, get out on the boat, and flush after each use. He went on to explain that the main differences between my [outboard engine, a 2005 Mercury 90-HP FOURSTROKE model] and the Saltwater version were a few stainless steel parts and a big decal. Are there other steps or modifications that I should consider before I launch? Thanks
macfam	posted 09-19-2011 02:40 PM ET (US) Alanson, Trailered or in-water? If it's in water for more than a week or two, anti-fouling bottom paint on your hull is mandatory. If you trailer, be SURE to replace wheel grease caps with "Bearing Buddies" with grease zercs. Make sure any sacraficial zincs (trim fin) on your engine are not painted. Remove prop, and use TRIPLE GUARD GREASE (blue/purple)on splines and replace prop. (It sucks to have a prop corroded onto the shaft) Grease all zercs on your outboards...(guess what grease I use) Clean and lube all battery connections. Tighten the nut on battery terminals with a wrench. Salt air can corrode connections and terminals faster than you are accustomed. You'll thank me for suggesting you add a STEERSMAN NUT to your steering, where the rod exits the tube. The o-ring will keep the corrosive salt water out ot the tube, and keep grease from harding. Again, use TRIPLE GUARD GREASE. How often have you seen threads that start "Help, Steering frozen"..........This will prevent it from happening. Now.....go out and enjoy the best boating...........
ivansfo	posted 09-19-2011 06:44 PM ET (US) Got this tip from CW member bsmotril nearly a decade ago. Take off the engine cowling and spray anti-corrosion spray on all rust prone parts. To me that's pretty much everything besides electrical. This regiment has worked out nicely on my 10 year old Conquest that is used exclusively in salt.
Alanson	posted 09-21-2011 12:08 PM ET (US) Thanks macfan & ivansfo for the info. One question regarding Bearing Buddies. I have a Karavan trailer that has the Sure Lube system. Under the rubber dust cap there's grease zerk that presses into a hole that goes all the way thru the center of the spindle & comes out by the back bearing. At that point it greases the back bearing and fills the inside of the hub. It then greases the front bearing and when you see grease coming out of the castle nut, the hub & bearings should be full. Does this function the same way as the Buddy Bearings? Thanks again for your help. And macfan, I will use TRIPLE GUARD GREASE (blue/purple)!!!
L H G	posted 09-21-2011 01:07 PM ET (US) As for the possibility of engine powerhead corrosion itself, remember that it is a Yamaha built engine. So corrosion on/in that part of the outboard would be related to how well Yamaha's hold up in salt. As for the Mercury components, such as the mid and lower units, the only real issues that I would recommend watching are the steering yoke and tilt tube. On salt water models, those were stainless. On yours, they are not. Keep the tilt tube and steering ram well geased, and PROPERLY install a 1" size Steersman grease nut ($25). You could also have the tilt tube upgraded with an SS replacement. When installing the Steersman on a Merc, YOU MUST FIRST PULL THE STEERING AT LEAST HALF WAY OUT OF THE ENGINE AND REMOVE THE TILT TUBE FACTORY O-RING on the port exit. The Steersman replaces the factory port side nut also. This permits you to work grease into the tilt tube and gives the Steersman a chance to do it's job, work properly and be maintained easily. At least once a year, remove the link arm and Steersman nut, clean up the old grease and steering ram, re-grease and re-install. Your steering will last and work well forever. Don't forget that the Steersman needs it's own new O-ring once a year, or more often if necessary. I own a bunch of Mercurys and have found them to be excellent in corrosion resistance. Be sure to use Mercury/Quicksilver brand anodes only, which are aluminum based and provide the best salt protection. DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET ZINCS. They are old technology and provide only half the protection. If your engine has the blacked out trim tab, replace it with an aluminum one for extra protection.
K Albus	posted 09-21-2011 01:29 PM ET (US) Larry makes a good point. If your engine was properly set up for freshwater use, it will have magnesium anodes. Those should be switched to aluminum or zinc anodes for saltwater use.
macfam	posted 09-21-2011 01:44 PM ET (US) Alanson, The Karavan lube system is a bit different that Bearing Buddies, and perhaps better. The idea of the Bearing Buddies is to load with grease under slight pressure from a spring loaded diaphram. When the warm/hot wheel is immersed in water, and there is some grease/air contraction, the spring keeps the diaphram tight not allowing intrusion of water or worse, salt water. They just prevent the corrosive salt water form coming into direct contact with steel bearings. I'm sure you are good with Karavan's system.
L H G	posted 09-21-2011 02:20 PM ET (US) The newer Spindle-Lube system has been around for about 10 years, and is now almost 100% used by the new trailer builders. My last two Continental keel roller trailers came with them, and I could not even order a plain spindle/Bearing Buddy system any longer. Actually, I like them better, and they seem to keep water out better, and run better, no bearing covers needed. Plus, you have the knowledge that you have pumped brand new grease though the bearings, so re-packing becomes a thing of the past. For me, so far, so good.
Alanson	posted 09-21-2011 09:04 PM ET (US) Thanks to all for the great info. Continuous Wave help me choose my 1st Whaler and has been a great community helping me enjoy my BW Montauk. Steve
Whalerdog	posted 05-31-2012 09:33 PM ET (US) Flush your motor after each use for 5 minutes or a bit longer.
whaler1234	posted 05-31-2012 10:05 PM ET (US) Drop the lower unit and grease the splines religiously every year regardless of hours. This includes the prop. I definitely learned the hard way. The dealer was unable to remove mine, so I ended up buying a new motor. Sadly I only had less than a hundred hours on a perfectly good motor. Things I'll do differently with my new motor are: in addition to what was already mentioned.. use saltaway after EVERY outing and frequently check the water jackets for corrosion buildup, check the thermostat for corrosion, reverse flush the water pressure sender line, use only ethanol free fuel..now that its readily available for me, watch for chips dand repair as necessary before the rust spot gets any bigger.
JTC	posted 06-05-2012 09:16 AM ET (US) For what it's worth, I have two "salt water" whalers: My 28 Conquest, I keep in a slip and religiously flush the motors after each trip because I have access to fresh water (and because I just put brand new motors on it last year). However my '96 20 Dauntless is on a mooring with no fresh water nearby. Thus the motor (still the original Johnson 175 HP) NEVER gets flushed except at the end of the season. The Johnson is still running GREAT -- I did have to replace the tilt motor a couple of years ago, but otherwise it's been perfect. So bottom line, don't worry too much. Obviously if you can flush the motors and rinse off the saltwater you should, but I woudn't freak out if you can't or miss it...
tom976	posted 06-05-2012 09:52 AM ET (US) If the boat is NOT kept in the water, nothing is needed except flushing out the motor at the end of the day. If its kept in the water, check your motor and see if it uses magnesium anodes or zincs. Magnesium is for freshwater and zincs are used for salt water. (although some do use them in freshwater) Tom
SC Joe	posted 06-05-2012 06:55 PM ET (US) The water pressure sender tube orifice on the engine will clog up with salt after only a few times usage no matter how much the engine is flushed. Get used to taking it apart and manually cleaning it with a small awl or welding tip cleaners.
Whalerdog	posted 07-03-2012 09:57 PM ET (US) never had it clog since I got mine in 07
swist	posted 07-05-2012 12:54 PM ET (US) I've been through many years of OMC, Yamaha, & Merc outboards in exclusively saltwater. I flush my engines with freshwater once, at the end of the season. Never had any kind of salt buildup or water passage corrosion issues. (The same cannot be said for the longevity of certain non-cooling related components of pre-"Saltwater Series" Yamahas) I know that many people feel otherwise, but salt is soluble in saltwater and should flush the engine as well as freshwater - at least I never saw any buildup. My boats were always used regularly in season, and I'm sure that is a factor also.
surfkast	posted 07-28-2012 05:06 PM ET (US) I have a 2006 Montauk 170 that is used exclusively in salt water. I trailer it to launch in San Diego. After the last 6 years I'd say the only thing I do is make sure to flush the engine, and rinse all the metal (and dry the rails, etc). Boat is fine. The trailer springs are rusting as the trailer bunks have a lot of salt water on them and it's pretty hard to get it all out. I think it drips out slowly even after I rinse it. Other than that, no problems. Rinse the trailer thoroughly every time, replace zincs. One thing, the lower unit was very difficult to take off after 2-3 years. I'd make sure to take off and grease.