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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
2001 OUTRAGE 21 Drain Plug
|Author||Topic: 2001 OUTRAGE 21 Drain Plug|
posted 09-25-2011 10:44 AM ET (US)
[Seeks] any feedback on a drain plug problem with my 2001 Outrage 21. I am baffled. I have had to replace the 1-inch garboard drain plug four times this season already. I've used both brass and stainless steel [plugs] from West Marine. Fortunately the bilge pump has been doing its job nicely so no damage. Yesterday I went out to the boat (moored in salt water, South Boston) and the plug was laying next to the drain hole with two peculiar aspects. The flat, washer-like piece on the bottom had vanished--just like the prior 3 times--and as a result, the rubber ring had shrunk without the pressure and popped out. There was a fairly thick, chalk-like coating on the stainless part of the plug.
Any thoughts on what might be causing this problem?
Thanks, and happy fall cruising to all.
posted 09-25-2011 07:46 PM ET (US)
Sorry, but I don't understand your post. You are moored in sea water but you found your garboard drain plug laying next to the drain? This you found with your garboard drain underwater?
Are you attempting to seal the garboard drain from inside the hull?
I thought all later model Boston Whaler boats used a threaded garboard drain which had a threaded plug to be screwed into the drain from outside the hull.
If you are attempting to plug the garboard drain while using a non-threaded plug from inside the hull that may explain the difficulty. If your garboard drain is not threaded, try inserting a rubber plug with a T-handle which can be tightened causing the plug to expand in the hull and establish a good water tight seal. The water pressure on the outside of the hull will help the plug remain in place.
If I'm off base on this I apologize.
posted 09-25-2011 07:56 PM ET (US)
The plug definitely should be inserted into the drain tube from the outside of the hull.
Based on the Whalerparts.com drawing, it does not appear that the 2001 Outrage 210 had a threaded drain plug. See: http://whalerparts.com/Diagrams/2001/210%20Outrage/PJ886022.pdf
posted 09-26-2011 09:04 AM ET (US)
The picture does clearly show the plug being inserted from outside, but from the original description I am concerned about a really bad galvanic corrosion problem - better check the zincs!
posted 09-26-2011 09:22 AM ET (US)
K--Nice diagram. After increasing the zoom even my old eyes can see that the plug is the rubber T-handle type already mentioned. It also is clear the plug should be installed in the drain from the outside.
I would not worry about galvanic corrosion because of the metal in the plug. The metal below the waterline on many of our boats have a far greater potential (sorry for the pun) for galvanic corrosion than the very small amount of metal in a garboard drain plug of the type shown. I'm thinking of stainless steel propellers and transom mounted transducer brackets.
Certainly the zincs used on boats moored continuously should be checked often.
posted 09-26-2011 09:34 AM ET (US)
jefecinco--when I saw the plug laying next to the drain, it was inside the hull, between the bilge pump and the float switch. It's now clear that I may be using wrong plug. I am inserting the plug from the wrong side (hold the comments Phil T)
Any ideas where to get that specific plug?
That diagram is awesome, thanks for sharing K Albus.
From what you guys can see in the diagram, might I be having the same problem elsewhere in the boat? The forward bilge or sump pump goes off much more often than I'd like to see. I was under the assumption only one plug was required, but maybe not.
Had a rough 'handover' with this boat. Many lessons were learned in my first season with her. Appreciate the feedback.
posted 09-26-2011 09:49 AM ET (US)
Also, what exactly are the "zincs" and if they're improperly exposed, could they be corroding the plugs at an unusual rate? How do I check?
posted 09-26-2011 09:55 AM ET (US)
Butch, I'm not worried about the metal in the plug causing galvanic corrosion elsewhere, but rather that the plug is being corroded to the point where the metal washer on the plug vanishes in just a few days/weeks. To have that happen repeatedly may indicate a more general galvanic corrosion problem that will damage other components besides the plug.
I've heard of "hotspots" in various marinas that can do a lot of damage in a short time.
posted 09-26-2011 09:56 AM ET (US)
The plugs are available at just about any marine store, and probably also places like Walmart. Here's a link to the West Marine website page for the plug: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ ProductDisplay?productId=12246&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151& storeNum=10106&subdeptNum=10464&classNum=10467 . Don't waste your money on the stainless steel plug - the brass one should be fine.
There are many more drawings and part lists available for your boat at www.whalerparts.com
"Zincs" are sacrificial anodes that mounted in various locations, usually on your motor. They are usually made of zinc or aluminum, and their purpose is to sacrifice themselves and corrode first before allowing other parts to corrode. Here's a West Marine article discussing anodes: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ WestAdvisorView?langId=-1&storeId=11151&catalogId=10001& page=Galvanic-Corrison-Protection
posted 09-26-2011 10:13 AM ET (US)
bkoelbel--if your bilge pumps are coming on frequently and your batteries are not going dead, it sounds like you may be in a marina plugged in with a battery charger on board.
If so, your own boat may be the source of the electrolysis that is eating up the metal part of the plug which , if I understand correctly, you had mistakenly inserted inside your bilge sump.
Might be a good time to take a close look at your transom bracket for corrosion there. There is usually a big zinc somewhere on that that you'll want to keep after. A destroyed transom bracket will be a lot more expensive than a few plugs. :(
posted 09-26-2011 10:43 AM ET (US)
boatdryver--That's another irony. I am on a mooring, no elecctrical hook up, yet both batteries have been rock stars all summer.
Would any of you more intelligent, seasoned boaters take a look at the following page from whalerparts?
I obviously need to get a new brass plug for the transom.
Per the diagram, in the midship area, there appears to be a similar drain (porta potti w pumpout) parts 76, 77, and 78. Can anyone tell if this is a thru hull drain (similar to the transom) that should be plugged, similar to the transom?
Both the bilge pump (transom area) and sump pump (midship) Go off much more than I'd like to see and often fill right back up after I pump them out.
posted 09-26-2011 02:53 PM ET (US)
I wasn't going to say anything. (wink)
posted 09-29-2011 08:04 AM ET (US)
I have the same hull.
Even though the diagram clearly shows a T-handle 1-inch garboard plug, my boat came with a plastic screw in garboard plug. It has a rubber O-ring and it has a flathead screw slot to fasten. I keep a quarter onboard and use it to remove the plug and drain ashore.
Scuppers and through holes are one area the Brunswick boats cheapened the parts compared to the classics. The plastic Attwood components are inferior quality to the brass fittings on the classics. The UV light ages these fittings rapidly in sunnier, warmer climates. I noticed on the newer boats they have gone back to chrome detailed fittings. Probably still plastic underneath.
posted 09-29-2011 10:55 AM ET (US)
My 210 Ventura is the same hull. I have not one problem with this fitting and you know I've got over 4,000-hours on the boat.
posted 10-02-2011 12:10 PM ET (US)
posted 10-02-2011 12:26 PM ET (US)
Tom, bkoelbel keeps his boat in salt water on a mooring. Yours still looks new on its trailer. :)
posted 10-03-2011 06:33 PM ET (US)
Gents--thanks for all the feedback, but the problem seems to be worsening.
Per the whalerparts.com diagram, I replaced the bilge area plug and installed from the outside. However, the bilge area was again flooded when I next used the boat, and the console area around the porta-potti was also flooded. The pumps easily cleared the water, but it filled again within two hours.
From the diagrams the only 1-inch drain plug I can see is on the transom, and I have that covered.
Both fishboxes have 1-inch plugs, but they have both been sealed correctly all summer with no water.
Any ideas from where all this water is coming?
Tomorrow is haul out day--probably good timing--but I want to start working the problem sooner than later. Appreciate any feedback!
posted 10-03-2011 07:57 PM ET (US)
[Off topic reply]
posted 10-05-2011 12:23 PM ET (US)
Tom (BlueWaterPirate)--where are you in NC? I'll be in Sunset beach in February
All--we did the haul out yesterday and should have the guilty party identified soon. Will have zincs examined and replaced if needed. Thanks for the input
posted 10-07-2011 10:04 PM ET (US)
I have a 21 Conquest. I use two drain plugs, one from the outside and one on the inside for extra protection. I have found the outside plug loose several times.
posted 10-08-2011 07:33 AM ET (US)
You might want to check one other fitting. There is a clamshell raw water pickup fitting on the bottom of the hull under the port quarter. This is for the shower fitting and baitwell options on this boat.
Per ABYC standards, you should have double hose clamps on all thru hull fittings. Also check where the water line of your transom is based on the scum line from the mooring. If the four scuppers are getting below the waterline, check the inside of the hull to see if one of these hose fittings is leaking, too.
Any other boat, you would be sunk by now if one of these is leaking. The unsinkable Whaler saves you from that fate.
posted 10-11-2011 08:16 PM ET (US)
Mambo--sounds very close. In your opinion would this fitting be accessible through a round access hatch below and to the right of the battery box?
I've scoured the diagrams on www.whalerparts.com, and I cannot locate this fitting, although there is a raw water hose fixture and switch on the console. I just never used it.
Appreciate the feedback. Thanks.
posted 10-11-2011 09:14 PM ET (US)
My Conquest is set up slightly different than your Outrage, but same hull.
To access the fitting, you go underneath the port quarter stern seat. Under the seat, there is an access panel that folds down. Stick your head inside and look down and to your right. It's a seacock valve type fitting.
You have to be a contortionist back aft to remove batteries, replace sump pump or work on remote oil tank.
By the way, my new workplace is on Summer Street; I suspect you are in the marina east of my office that I can see from the seventh floor windows. If you have trouble finding it, perhaps I could show you at lunchtime.
posted 10-11-2011 10:03 PM ET (US)
Our primary residence is in Greenville, North Carolina, and we also have a house on the AIWW in Ocean Isle Beach, North Carolina, just down the waterway from Sunset Beach.--Tom
posted 10-11-2011 11:09 PM ET (US)
Mambo Minnow--small world! While the small marina (Peninsula Yacht Club) you mention is in South Boston, I'm further down by Castle Island at Boston Harbor Yacht Club. Would love to touch base. My MDN is 603-953-3032.
posted 10-12-2011 10:12 AM ET (US)
bkoelbel--you did the haul out a few days ago. Please give us a follow-up on what was allowing the water to enter your bilge.--JimL
posted 10-13-2011 08:36 AM ET (US)
A leakage from the battery positive into the water can cause accelerated galvanic corrosion.
If there are electrical pumps that are running while the boat is on the mooring, the electrical pumps could be the location where the battery positive is being connected to the water. There could be some problem in one of the pumps. Every time the pump runs it causes corrosion of the nearby drain plug.
posted 10-13-2011 09:18 AM ET (US)
All - inspected the boat up on the racks yesterday.....and Mambo Minnow seems to have nailed it.
Although I could not see the affected area myself....it appears the thru hull fitting that allows for the raw water to be drawn in for the live wells and raw water hose.
Not yet 100% sure if it's the fitting or failing clamps....but we're getting there.
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