CONTINUOUSWAVE

We are looking forward to a fun Summer in 2024 using the restored boat.

The Boston Whaler 1967 NAUSET 16 restoration is essentially done. I added a strong swim platform with four steps down into the water. The project came out well and I am 99-percent-sure all the holes I drilled are waterproof. I used 3M 5200 in all the holes and in addition Butyl tape under all fittin...

Just to clarify, the shrink-wrap tape just was to hold all cables together as I pulled them through. All the taped parts came out on the other end. Every wire, control, and fuel line can be pulled out separately.

The project is moving along. The console is in place and fastened down. All the rigging is hooked up including the battery in the console, two fuel tanks, a new chartplotter/fish finder, and a new guage. Everything works with no sparks or fires. The engine starts right up. IMG_3493.jpg IMG_3492.jpg ...

I have the steering, fuel line, engine harness, transducer, navigation lamps, and battery cables pulled through the center tube now. As you can see, a pull line was used. I used shrink-wrap tape to hold all the lines together while pulling them through. Shrink wrap tape sticks like crazy so nothing ...

Console back in the boat and ready to install. All pre-wired.



Now I have to get steering, controls, battery cables, fuel line, transducer cable, engine wiring harness, through the under floor tube and hook it all back up.

Progress has been made.

Well, I am finally back at work on [the 1967 NAUSET boat that is the topic of this thread] after getting a total hip replacement. I am installing everything in the replacement console. I could have made one from the plans but it would have cost almost as much as buying one. Plus I was not able to wo...

I am quite happy with the interior finish.

IMG_3303.jpg IMG_3302.jpg IMG_3304.jpg In an effort to share knowledge, I want to tell you about a screw-up. After the first coat of Total Boat Wet Edge Whaler Blue, I sanded lightly with an 80-grit pad and then vacuumed up the dust. I then proceeded to start wiping down with acetone on a rag. The ...

IMG_3299.jpg IMG_3300.jpg Well, my whaler is back to its correct interior color! There is something about the old blue whalers. To me when they are painted any other color it's not the same. This is coat #1 of 3 thinish coats or Total Boat Wet Edge thinned with 10% thinner. The Wet Edge paint does ...

Interior primed with Total Boat 2 part epoxy primer. Some gray some white because that is the paint I had on hand. Got one and a half coats on until I ran out of paint. One more coat (when paint gets here) then two coats of Whaler Blue then the painting is done.

Today's Work

Q7: when the hull was flipped over, was it done with manpower or was a machine used? I am lucky I have access to a forklift that can lift 40-feet and up to 8,000-lbs. I used that with straps to the lifting eyes to move the hull. The hull can be unloaded from the trailer onto grass, and then four st...

The [1967 NAUSET 16 that is being refurbished and discussed in this thread] is now right-side-up on the trailer. The interior does not have many stress cracks and the molded-in non-skid looks really good. I didn't want to sand on the non-skid so I used a stainless steel wire wheel to clean out the p...

I did not ask Interlux about reducing the amount of hardener. I just reduced the amount in small steps from 2-to-1 (33%) to almost 4-to-1 (25%) by the fourth coat. The fourth coat flowed out really nicely. A week later feels the paint surface seems very hard and quite smooth. [The surface of the Int...

Tom Hemphill is correct: Interlux Perfection is a two-part polyurethane paint. Adjusting the amount of hardener appeared to allow Interlux Perfection = to flow out and smooth more than the first coat, which was not as smooth. [Changing the ratio or paint to harderner] seemed to just affect the amoun...

It is now over a week since the final coat. I left it alone to cure slowly. It seems very hard and tough. I think it just cured more slowly. We will see.

Below is the hull as it now sits after the following process of preparation and painting: ⋅ strip off the bottom paint using an angle grinder and 60 grit ⋅ sand down the gel coat until spider cracks were almost gone ⋅ fix 186 holes or places where the gelcoat was broken...

Thanks.

I was leaning towards Oyster White. I didn't want to color-match 55-year-old gel coat.

Q1: what was the original color of the gel coat resin on the eterior of the hull of a 1967 16 NAUSET? BACKSTORY I have searched the forum for this but could not find it. I am ready to paint Interlux Perfection on my hull. There are several colors of white available but I don't know which is correct ...

I am worried about that as well. I think I will just put thickened epoxy where holes need to be filled but leave them below the gelcoat layer and put fairing compound on all the surfaces that need it.

I sanded down the gel coat down about halfway until the crazing cracks were mostly gone.



A 5-inch random orbital sander and 80 grit seemed to work best.

I hope that a new top coat of flexible epoxy primer will keep the cracks from reappearing over the years.

I have no experience using teak oil on mahogany. When I have used teak oil on teak on various boats I ended up cleaning it off and refinishing with varnish. Those choices may be a personal taste. On one boat that had a ton of teak trim I took off the teak oil and used just three coats of Cetol gloss...

After scraping old varnish off with the heat gun and a quality scraper only a light sanding is needed before applying the Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) if the wood is in good condition. Multiple coats of CPES can be applied without sanding if applied within 12 hours. I like to do light sand ...

I recommend to strip that varnish by using a quality scraper and a heat gun. [I believe a step is missing here. An elaboration would be helpful—Moderator.] Then apply three coats of Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy. [I believe the author here intends to allow ample time to cure and may also want to p...

Most of the bottom paint is off.



Q5: which resin is harder to sand: MARINTEEX or WEST System Epoxy thickened with milled fibers?

Clarification: In this post I refer to a 1972 Nauset. After I bought it I found the title and the official assigned HIN said it is 1971. The stenciled number on the stern shows it is 1967. I guess it doesn't really matter [with regard to the installation of oar locks].

I don't have an easy way to weigh the hull but before I bought it I went over it quite carefully with my little tapping hammer and moisture meter. The normal trouble spots all looked good. The floor feels solid everywhere. The brass drain tubes seem ok. It had an Etec 90 on the transom with less tha...

I have way too many small cracks on the side panels of the hull to Dremel them all out. That is why I think the solution is to sand most of the finely cracked Gelcoat off and replace it with multiple coats of epoxy primer. I will Dremel out larger cracks but they are mostly in the interior as in the...

Q1: is the plan for hull refurbishment and paint that I describe below a good plan? Q2: what color of Interflux PERFECTION is the best choice for a classic NAUSET hull? Q3: between TotalBoat WetEdge "Whaler Blue" and a two-part-epoxy paint, which should I use? Q4: what brand and what color...

Q1: can oarlocks be installed on a NAUSET so it could be rowed from the forward seat as a 13-footer can be rowed? I will be doing a lot of fiberglass work to the NAUSE. Adding wood to the hull [reinforcement for an oarlock] won't be a big deal. BACKSTORY: I am new on the forum. I am planning a total...