CONTINUOUSWAVE

RPS seatback has been spoken for, doors are still available.

Hi all, When I bought my 1981 Montauk, the owner had replaced the teak seat back and console doors with fiberglass/plastic parts that he acquired from Boston Whaler (I think in the 1990s). Thankfully for me, he still had all of the teak parts on hand, and I refinished and reinstalled them years ago....

I've been towing boats (and various and sundry other stuff) with Subaru’s for years. We are on our fourth Legacy Wagon or Outback, which we currently use to pull a Montauk 17 with an old Evinrude 90-HP V4 (soon to be replaced by a Suzuki DF90A). The Outback is a 2014 3.6R (250 HP flat-six), and it h...

Not sure if you are still looking, but I have a near-perfect RPS seat back (in fiberglass not teak) that’s yours for the taking. It’s in Alexandria, VA, but I am a yinzer by birth and often in Pittsburgh (at least I was before COVID and will be again soon, I hope). [Please call, text, or email the f...

I just restored my console, and rather than deal with a locksmith, etc., I just replaced them with a new pair: http://search.defender.com/?Action=2&AnswerId=23799&SH=QT1DYW0gbG9ja35CPUNhbSBsb2NrfkQ9MjV_ST1QcmljZX5KPVBhcnRpYWxNYXRjaH5LPTR_TD0xfk09MX4&SI=5d2997c3-3d58-4595-b70c-1560efebc1d...

Jim is correct, there's really no need to wire things up the way I am proposing. I tend to overcomplicate things because, well, that's just the kind of person I am. As I mentioned in the first post in this thread, my setup is driven by my (arguably irrational) desire to have a subset of my electrica...

Thanks for the Digikey link - that could save me some money. I was indeed just planing to use push-on connectors, but soldering on some pigtails is an option, too. All of the socket options I looked at seemed more trouble than they were worth (although I must admit I do like the way they limit the e...

Well, that's why I was thinking of feeding the B+ terminal from one of the circuits on the A+ terminal - so that the whole B+ circuit would be fused just upstream of the relay (meaning the relay would then be fused with a lower amperage fuse than the terminal block, and closer). In terms of a relay,...

Thanks - on they go then! FWIW, I love oiled teak on any cabin parts (or the Danish modern furniture in my home, for that matter), but what I like about Deks for this application is the availability of the gloss finish, which I find harder wearing on external surfaces. I first tried it on the ash gu...

Many thanks - sounds like I am more-or-less on the right track. I'll likely stick with the first option as it means one less wire from the transom to the console. For the fuse at the batter, I was thinking of a termal fuse block like this one: https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse...

I am getting ready to reinstall the console doors on my 1981 Montauk. The previous owner had replaced them with doors made from Starboard, but thankfully for me, he saved all of the original wood. What--if anything--should I use as a sealant? Silicon? A flexible polysufide like Life-Caulk? I am thin...

I'm rewiring my 1981 Montauk. I plan to add a DC subpanel under the console to power all of the house electrical system, connected directly to the battery (which is located in the stern). I would like to have a switched partition of the block that powers all of the electronics (stereo, VHF, and GPS/...