DJ_Ambrose wrote:Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Here are my comments:
A c.1988 Mercury 90-HP engine should be a three-cylinder, very simple, two-stroke-power-cycle engine. There is nothing fancy or unusual about this engine. It is one of the better Mercury engines of that era. The c.1988 epoch should mean that the rubber hoses in the engine will be rated for use with alcohol-gasoline blended fuels, which were becoming very common at that time. The whole engine is very simple, 1960-technology. The most likely problems with this engine will be from the rubber components in the fuel system and the electrical components in the spark ignition and battery charging systems.
If the engine is a four-cylinder or six-cylinder engine, they are entirely different models. Please confirm the number of cylinders in the engine for more appropriate responses from readers.
The duration of the engine storage is unspecified. The term of storage as "several years" has little meaning. Find out how long the engine has been sitting unused. Also find out where it has been sitting unused. For example, if it sat indoors in a northern part of the USA, that is quite different than if it sat outdoors on a tropical coastal region. Exposure to sunlight, high temperatures, and salt air are generally negative influences on engine life.
The term "winterized" can mean almost anything. One person's notion of having properly prepared the engine for long term storage might be very different than another person's. There is nothing standard or rigourous about an engine having been "winterized." It could mean almost anything. Find out what was done to prepare engine for storage
There are many potential and very real problems that might occur in an outboard engine that has been sitting for many years. The steel components may have rusted. The aluminum components may have oxidized. The rubber components may have decayed and rotted. The electrical wire insulation may have become brittle and cracked. The seals and gaskets in the fuel system may have dried out, contracted, and no longer act as seals.
I would never buy an outboard engine based only on photographs of the engine. You should visually and very carefully inspect the engine yourself, or if not possible, send or hire someone to inspect the engine in person.
As already mentioned, the seller of an outboard engine should be willing to start the engine and demonstrate that it does start and run properly, or in some way have evidence or have reliable testimony that the engine has recently been started and run.
In any purchase of a used boat, there are many elements that contribute to the total value of the purchase. If you have any doubts about the engine, then place a low value on the engine as part of the package in the total purchase, and adjust your assessment of a fair price according to that lesser value for the engine.
For advice on assessing value of a used Boston Whaler boat, see:
Buying Classic Boston Whaler Boatshttp://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/buying.htmlFor advice on assessing used outboard engine, see
Assessing Used Outboard Engineshttp://continuouswave.com/whaler/refere ... Check.html