CONTINUOUSWAVE

Hi all. We have recently acquired a 2007 Outrage 210, and I'm currently busy cleaning and tidying various things just in case our useless UK winter should ever decide to end and I can get on the water.

The first thing to confuse me is the cooler. It seems the previous owner never used the cooler--which is good--but, as a result, he didn't fit any cooler restraining system, maybe linked to the fact he bought the boat hull only. So all I have got is the hinged bracket on the front of the console as below:



Can some kind soul tell me what I need to fit to hold the cooler down and in this bracket?

Sharkbait--I assume you are talking about a cooler with a cushion as came standard with your boat. Normally these coolers are held in place with two bungees, one on each side, connected from the formed support (shown in your picture) to the cooler. Nothing used on the sole of the boat. Maybe the Boston Whaler dealer has them or you must find some short bungees. Happy Whalering

Wouldn't the cooler be retained in the same manner using elastic cords or bungees, with or without a cushion attached to the cooler?

Hi Dutchman - yep that's the one. I think that BW UK would have supplied it/them with the boat when new but the original owner has simply misplaced them (along with the nav light that plugs into the top of the console :( ).
I've got access to bungee .... I'll pick some up but I'm guessing that there must be somewhere for the bungee to attach to the frame on the console (there isn't anything on my boat)? Maybe I'll email Whaler.

Jim: you've got a point there ;)

Shark -
Take a close look at page 3 of the console assembly drawing for your 2007 210 Outrage from Boston Whaler.

http://www.bostonwhaler.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company94/_56_913201042140PM.pdf

The cooler cleat is part #30 and the blowup circle shows the strap assembly, part # 64.

The parts list is page 8 and includes the Whaler part #.

As you know the UK whaler dealer is Dorset Yacht Company, you can ring them on +44 (0) 1202 674 531 or email sales@bostonwhaler.co.uk

If you don't get good service from Dorset, email Sue Lodel, Parts Manager at Twin Cities Marine in WI. She is THE parts guru and ships internationally all the time.

Twin Cities Marine,
(920)793-2715
tcmarine@lakefield.net

Cheers.

The "Bungee" cords referenced are actually rubber cords with plastic hooks attached at both ends. The have far less elasticity than do Bungee cords. They are widely used for countless purposes and can be obtained, at least in the US, from outlets other than Boston Whaler or it's dealer network. The last set I purchased were from the local Bass Pro store. The price was quite reasonable and almost certainly less than the list price from Boston Whaler. I bought a couple of extras.

From the linked drawing--thanks to Phil for providing it--it appears that a pad eye is provided as the attachment point for the elastic strap at the console end using an S-hook. The coolers usually also have a molded-in fitting on them for attaching the elastic strap with an S-hook. Fitting out the boat for a cooler may mean installing your own pad eyes on the console cooler fitting. This might actually be an advantage, because you can position the pad eyes to match the length of the elastic strap you are able to obtain locally.

As stated earlier the originals straps were rubber cords with plastic hooks on the ends and crimped in a loop on the brackets. Change them out with bungy material and a metal or plastic hook on the end. Crimping the bungy is easy. Get the proper SS crimps from the same supplier of bungy and use a professional wire crimper to form the crimps onto the cord. Finish it off with a pair of strong pliers (channelocks) I can do a Youtube video for you if needed but it just takes a little practice and you are an expert.

The coolers are not supplied with pad eyes. The cords are secured to the cooler deck mounted fitting with a screw at one end and a pad eye for the hook at the other end. The cords are looped through the cooler carrying handles before securing them to the pad eye.

The original design is more convenient than bungee cords and a little less obtrusive. The cords are left on the cooler deck mounted fitting when the cooler is removed so they are always there when needed. Because the cords are looped through the cooler handles the smaller diameter of the original design allows the cooler handles to remain closer to the cooler when it is secured.

Thanks for the info guys - especially Phil for that drawing - I've founds parts drawings but not on the Whaler website and they're not that detailed. Very handy for future reference.
I though that the elastic/S hook might just clip onto hole moulded into the handle of the cooler but it seems not. I'm sure that the UK importer could supply these but the waiting time and price will possibly be rediculous - I'm still waiting for a reply from them regarding fitting a ski pylon that I spoke to them about two weeks ago (and I know it's available as I had an email from Chuck at Whaler within 48hrs of an email).
I may just put something together using pad eyes and thick bungee from the local chandlery.

I'm positive there will be more questions - most of them stupid!
:)

Sharkbait,

If you install your own pad eyes and use Bungee cords I recommend you secure both pad eyes to the cooler deck and loop the cord through the handle. The reason for this recommendation is that the cooler outer wall is not particularly resistant to tearing and the pad eye mounting screws could tear out in choppy conditions. Through bolting could be used but would interfere with the smooth, easily cleaned interior cooler surface.

I have used a stainless steel cooler hold down kit available from Kennedy Products:
http://www.kennedymart.com/proddetail.php?prod=C00L1

I bed the deck base plates with 3M4200. I have used these with Igloo and Engel coolers. Here is the mount on an Engel cooler on my 170 Montauk:


The turnbuckle works very well and holder keeps the cooler fastened extremely tightly:

I admit the bungie cord/strap design has it's shortcomings and have experienced it first hand.

As some veterans might remember I had a habit of venturing out in nasty conditions and stuffing the bow of the boat. I recall at least 4 times when the cooler in my classic Montauk and Outrage 17 got knocked over or loose (handle broke). Keeping my tools and heavy gear in the cooler reduced this from occurring.

If one ventures out in the ocean into pounding waves, I would use RR's suggestion. Nice find!

Thanks for the pics RR - I doubt I'll be out in anything gnarly enough to warrant your very sturdy system. It's certainly got me thinking though! Jefecinco - don't worry I was always going to fit the pad eyes to the bracket and not the cooler - my limited imagination hadn't even got round to thinking of that option :)