CONTINUOUSWAVE

There are a few boats in the 16/17 hull models that I want to check out. A MONTAUK 17 and its derivatives are cool because I might be able to push up the console towards the bow about 8-inches and add lateral seats for passengers. A SUPER SPORT 17 classic is cool because it'll appeal to more people who see molded fiberglass as nicer. Figure I can't really go wrong.

In my mind the checklist is as follows-

• Check overall gelcoat condition. Excessive crazing, any and for cracks that penetrate deeper
• Check condition of fiberglass and gelcoat at all mounting points
• Knock around the hull and transom to determine if there is any serious water intrusion
• Compression test on engine. Function test on engine, controls, alternator and water pump, tilt during test run.
• Check condition of batteries, fuel tank and lines
• check drains and all transom through-bolts for any leaks and water stains

Anything else?

Q1: how common is it for classic 17-foot Boston Whaler boats to need transom repair?
Q2: What sort of readings from a moisture meter will throw red flags?

I think I can live with some waterlogged foam, but I don't want to tackle or pay for a transom replacement. I may order a moisture meter.

If buying an outboard engine along with the classic 17-footer, read

Assessing Used Outboard Engines
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/outboardCheck.html

To determine value of an older classic Boston Whaler, read

Buying Classic Boston Whaler Boats
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/buying.html

svsonora wrote:Q1: how common is it for classic 17-foot Boston Whaler boats to need transom repair?

I do not have any statistically valid data on the percentage of classic 17-foot Boston Whaler boats that need transom repair. Certainly there are some that do. The condition of the transom depends entirely on the care and attention given to the boat. There is no reason why a 60-year-old Boston Whaler boat can't have a solid transom.

svsonora wrote:Q2: What sort of readings from a moisture meter will throw red flags?

I don't have any data on readings from a moisture meter. I suspect that the reading obtained from a moisture meter will depend on the particular model and brand of meter in use and the manner it was used. I don't know of any absolute scale or metric that applies to all moisture meters and all Boston Whaler Unibond hulls. I don't know that an indication of moisture in a particular Boston Whaler Unibond hull with a particular moisture meter has any particular meaning.

In molding a Boston Whaler Unibond hull the process of the chemical conversion of the liquid reagents into a solid foam structure very likely produces some water as a reaction product, and on that basis there is very likely to be some water or moisture content entrapped in all Boston Whaler Unibond hulls. Exactly what output indicator reading from a particular brand and model of moisture meter would indicate an unusually high concentration of moisture in a particular hull is probably difficult to know.

I have owned 24 Whalers and never had a bad transom. Don't waste your money on a meter. Find one in nice shape and enjoy. Don't be "that guy" to the seller.

I sure wish I had a moisture meter when I was evaluating my newly purchased 1980 Revenge V-22. When I pulled my first through-hull to replace it, water came dribbling out from the hull. As I got further into the project, I purchased a moisture meter, and found that it accurately measured the portions of the hull where the foam was saturated, proven by test holes drilled with a 1.5" hole saw.

Without a moisture meter, and without weighing the bare hull, how will you know if the foam is saturated or not?

For evaluating moisture content, I do the following

Look at every through hull and the O rings on each side.
Look for sealant on bolt holes. Should be excess gobs by overzealous underpaid yard guy.
Inspect hull for gouges
Inspect deck for floor seams with no sealant.
Look for rust seepage, a sign of general neglect.
Walk the entire deck in bare feet very slowly, shifting weight for soft spots.
Pull the inspection ports.
Inspect bilge.
Observe waterline, scum line on transom. Above the drains is telling.

I agree with Phil. I can't see how a meter would be able to gauge moisture through gelcoat, matt, resin, and possibly wood or whalerboard to get to the foam. Most boats do have some water in them, almost impossible to not have a bit.

This article is very informative. I did a lot of research and talked to a couple well respected accredited surveyors that confirmed what this guy says. I didn’t buy a meter. Go with what Phil T said.

http://www.pcmarinesurveys.com/Moisture%20meter%20mythology.htm

A few adds:
Ask the seller for maintenance records. That will tell you a lot.

So will whether the vessel meets all CG standards. Lights in order? Pfd’s in good shape? Fire extinguisher? Signal device? Horn works? If kill switch installed, does the owner put it on his person or ignore it? If there’s a lot of deficiencies, you gotta ask “if this person doesn’t care about their and their crew’s personal safety and the safety of other boaters, why would you think they take care of their boat any better.

For the love of all things holy, is the trailer safe with working lights, good tires, bearings, safety chains? Same concern if it’s not. Folks who drive unsafe trailers should be ticketed like drunk drivers. The consequences when things go wrong are usually very serious, often involve other people, and are permanent.

Spark plugs. But if they’ve just been replaced, not helpful.

Water emulsion in lower unit oil.

If 2 stroke, crankcase leak down test.

Sea trial will tell the most. Per the comment about water line, see where it sets at rest. If she sits low, that’s a problem.
Sea trial, rpms at WOT to see if propped relatively good (should be within engine spec for range of rpms at WOT - neither lower nor higher). Also Check mph at WOT.

Steering is critical. Test it thoroughly. Same as the trailer if it’s not ship shape.

Good luck.

ETA: for my next boat if I’m so lucky (bought four, three used one new, and built one) I will shorten the process. Walk around for general condition / records / lights and equipment in serviceable condition, wiggle transom, check for soft deck. Done. Sea trial - if it starts easily over and over, tell tail and temp gauge okay, accelerates and runs well, mph and rpm in spec, and steering and handles good on the water, including sitting where it should in the water. Check. Trailer set up properly for the boat and in good condition. Cool. Study the seller and how many prior owners have there been. Cool. Price right and I can afford the inevitable costs. Done. No compression check, leak down, tapping hull. I’d look at that only if something was not feeling right.