1996 21' Justice Refurbishment
Posted: Thu Sep 05, 2019 1:04 pm
The rigging of the new Yamaha [F300] engine has begun [on the 1995 JUSTICE 21 re-power].
As part of pre-rigging cleaning I had the fuel tank examined, pressure tested, drained, and cleaned, The fuel line hoses and tank level float gauge were replaced. The O-ring on the filler cap was . This service was performed by a fuel tank cleaning company that comes to your boat. This work, like bottom painting ,is best handled with your checkbook: $550 later and I was ready to install the 10-micron RACOR filter.
I used Stern Saver products for mounting the fuel filter and Airmar P66 transducer.
The hull incorporates three rigging tubes from the console which make things easy.
Out with the Mercury and in with Yamaha.
I am installing an engine [with electrically control shift and throttle called by the acronym DEC] so shift and throttle mechanical cables are not required.
I added a battery isolator with 100-Ampere fuse.
I added a water pressure sender kit.
Twin batteries are in the console.
I had a new dash panel cut and installed a five-inch Yamaha color gauge for Command Link Plus. I cut the console and mounted the control box. I also installed the key switch. I had a new panel cut for the lower electronics area and installed two sevein-inch touch screen Garmin MFD.
I towed the rig to my Yamaha dealer and had the motor mounted two-holes-up and mated to my [electric throttle and shift or] DEC control box.
I purchased the 3-year additional warranty.
I was good to go.
I noticed the lower unit had a unique serial number on the port exterior and that is a great idea, a long time coming. [To have serial numbers on gear cases] may deter some thefts.
I added a McGard lower unit locking bolt.
The hull has six Viking Marine access plates in the cockpit area. I replaced the O-rings on all with 0.250-inch Buna N, I and refastened the rectangular one in the engine splashwell.
The splashwell plates have aluminum rivets; the others plates have screws. I removed the rivets and installed stainless machine screws.
Rigging is a good excuse for more tools like my new hydraulic wire crimper.
Mississippi floodwaters at Natchez had me sidetracked for a while with problems there. Then I was waiting for permits for a boat elevator here. Luckily the storm skipped us in the Keys.
Prop testing is next, I only added some fuel for engine testing.
I have my handheld VHF HX870 for now until I pick something out.
Kids want a big stereo installed.
T-Top with a cloth material is new to me, and I am hesitant to cut it for antennas. My previous hardtop was fiberglass. T-top stayed put for about 25 hours of travel at 65-MPH on the highway.
I am not really a snake or large spider guy, and had second thoughts about having my entire arm up to the shoulder in the fuel hose & vent access of this hull that had been sitting in Oklahoma for years. No problem though. Stay tuned.
As part of pre-rigging cleaning I had the fuel tank examined, pressure tested, drained, and cleaned, The fuel line hoses and tank level float gauge were replaced. The O-ring on the filler cap was . This service was performed by a fuel tank cleaning company that comes to your boat. This work, like bottom painting ,is best handled with your checkbook: $550 later and I was ready to install the 10-micron RACOR filter.
I used Stern Saver products for mounting the fuel filter and Airmar P66 transducer.
The hull incorporates three rigging tubes from the console which make things easy.
Out with the Mercury and in with Yamaha.
I am installing an engine [with electrically control shift and throttle called by the acronym DEC] so shift and throttle mechanical cables are not required.
I added a battery isolator with 100-Ampere fuse.
I added a water pressure sender kit.
Twin batteries are in the console.
I had a new dash panel cut and installed a five-inch Yamaha color gauge for Command Link Plus. I cut the console and mounted the control box. I also installed the key switch. I had a new panel cut for the lower electronics area and installed two sevein-inch touch screen Garmin MFD.
I towed the rig to my Yamaha dealer and had the motor mounted two-holes-up and mated to my [electric throttle and shift or] DEC control box.
I purchased the 3-year additional warranty.
I was good to go.
I noticed the lower unit had a unique serial number on the port exterior and that is a great idea, a long time coming. [To have serial numbers on gear cases] may deter some thefts.
I added a McGard lower unit locking bolt.
The hull has six Viking Marine access plates in the cockpit area. I replaced the O-rings on all with 0.250-inch Buna N, I and refastened the rectangular one in the engine splashwell.
The splashwell plates have aluminum rivets; the others plates have screws. I removed the rivets and installed stainless machine screws.
Rigging is a good excuse for more tools like my new hydraulic wire crimper.
Mississippi floodwaters at Natchez had me sidetracked for a while with problems there. Then I was waiting for permits for a boat elevator here. Luckily the storm skipped us in the Keys.
Prop testing is next, I only added some fuel for engine testing.
I have my handheld VHF HX870 for now until I pick something out.
Kids want a big stereo installed.
T-Top with a cloth material is new to me, and I am hesitant to cut it for antennas. My previous hardtop was fiberglass. T-top stayed put for about 25 hours of travel at 65-MPH on the highway.
I am not really a snake or large spider guy, and had second thoughts about having my entire arm up to the shoulder in the fuel hose & vent access of this hull that had been sitting in Oklahoma for years. No problem though. Stay tuned.