Need for a "Transom Saver" Device

[OGSW20]

I have read that when trailering a boat with an outboard engine, the engine should not be positioned at the full-up tilt [mechanical lock position].

I have a SPORT 15 with an Evinrude 50-HP engine of 218-lbs with hydraulic trim-tilt. The engine has a [mechanical] lock for the full-up tilt position. For the full-down trim position there is no clearance [between the engine sked and the pavement].

Q1: should I purchase and use a transom saver device?

Q2: if I should get a transom saver device, what length?

Q3: if I should get a transom saver device, what brand?

Q4: if I should get a transom saver device, what mount?

Q5: if I should get a transom saver device, what style?

[Phil T]

If you do not prefer to use the trailer support bracket, purchase a M-Y WEDGE support. These are easy to use and cost effective.

https://m-ywedge.com/collections/universal-single-ram-motor-support

Do not secure the engine to the trailer, rather to the transom.

[OGSW20]

Q6: why not brace the outboard engine to the trailer?

[Phil T]

Q6: why not brace the outboard engine to the trailer?

[By bracing the engine to the trailer] the vibration and force would be transferred to the engine bracket rather than the hull.

[OGSW20]

Q7: isn’t the whole idea [of using a "transom saver"] to relieve stress on the transom and put stress on the trailer?

[jimh]

The boat transom is already sufficiently strong to absorb the thrust of a 70-HP engine, and also to support the weight of the engine.

The naming of an outboard engine tilt stop device as a "transom saver" is perhaps misleading. These devices generally act to reduce any movement of the engine tilt position, and reduce loading on the hydraulic actuator in the engine trim mechanism.

The device recommended by Phil acts to limit the downward movement of the engine. The upward movement of the engine is inhibited by gravity and by the hydraulic trim actuator.

Many Evinrude (and Johnson) outboard engines have integral mechanical tilt position locks that position the engine in a tilted-up orientation, but less than the full-up position. Securing the engine with one of these locks is generally referred to as the trailering position.

ASIDE: for many years I towed my boat with twin 70-HP engines (made by Yamaha but really copies of the OMC 70-HP engine). I set the power trim position so that the engines were sitting on the dual trim actuator rods in the trim mechanism. If the trim unit is in proper repair, the engine will not trim down by themselves from that orientation, as there are two hydraulic cylinders opposing movement in that direction. Also, with my boat and trailer rigging, even if an engine trimmed down by itself, the skeg would not be dangerously close to the pavement.

From my point of view, the real problem with trailering an outboard engine in the full-up tilt position is not for concern about the transom; rather, my concern is that leaving the engine in that position tends to spill all the gasoline fuel out of the carburetor bowls. This produces a mess inside the cowling, and creates a dry-bowl in the carburetor. With a dry bowl, engine starting will be more difficult, and a great deal of priming must be done to refill the carburetor bowls.

[jimh]

I have read that when trailering a boat with an outboard engine, the engine should not be positioned at the full-up tilt.

If you want an affirmation of that advice, you should ask the person who gave you that advice to explain the reasons for it.

[OGSW20]

Many Evinrude (and Johnson) outboard engines have integral mechanical tilt position locks that position the engine in a tilted-up orientation, but less than the full-up position. Securing the engine with one of these locks is generally referred to as the trailering position.

I don’t believe I have an intermediate lock position. Only all the way up or all the way down. Based on this, it sounds like a “transom saver” may be a good idea to hold the engine up a little to have more clearance from the skeg to the pavement, yet not all the way up.

From my point of view, the real problem with trailering an outboard engine in the full-up tilt position is not for concern about the transom; rather, my concern is that leaving the engine in that position tends to spill all the gasoline fuel out of the carburetor bowls. This produces a mess inside the cowling, and creates a dry-bowl in the carburetor. With a dry bowl, engine starting will be more difficult, and a great deal of priming must be done to refill the carburetor bowls.

Good to know.

I am new to all this. This information really helps.

[jimh]

I don’t believe [my 50-HP engine has] an intermediate lock position. Only all the way up or all the way down.

The tilt-lock only at full-up position is typical for smaller horsepower engines. My Yamaha 70-HP engines were the same. That's why I resorted to setting them at a trimmed-up position resting on the dual actuators for trim movement.


Fig. 1. Two 70-HP engines trimmed up to the top of the trim range, resting on the dual trim actuators, and ready for movement on the highway on the trailer. The boat was towed more than 15,000-miles on the highway in this manner.


FIg. 2. The twin actuator for the trim range can be clearly seen. The engine is lowered until it just rests on these actuators.

[jimh]

Regarding the recommendation to use the M-Y Wedge device: the linked page shows the "single ram" version of the device. This may not be workable if the engine under discussion has the older-style three-ram trim-tilt mechanism (as can be seen above in Figure 2).

My inference with regard to the M-Y WEDGE product: it was initially developed specifically for larger Mercury engines using a single ram.

Also, note that the product called the M-Y WEDGE is not described as a "transom saver." It is described as a "motor [sic] support." The description as an engine support is more appropriate, as that is exactly what the M-Y WEDGE does: it helps to support the engine.

[Phil T]

You can also use a piece of 2x4 between the midsection and the bracket and rest the engine on that.

Remember to drill a hole in each end of the piece of wood and tie it to the transom eyes so it does not fall away by accident.