Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Repair or modification of Boston Whaler boats, their engines, trailers, and gear
rnln
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Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Wed Dec 01, 2021 6:21 am

Please give me some pointers to the parts needed to convert a trailer to bunks from [floppy] rollers [for use with a REVENGE 22].

Q1: How can the boat be lifted off the trailer to change all the trailer parts?

Q2: Where can I rent a boat jack?

Q3: Where can I rent jack stands?

ASIDE: I bought a 1987 Revenge 22. Its trailer has old and deformed [floppy] rollers. I see small hull damage from a bent roller arm. This is my first boat. I didn't have any experience owning a boat at all. Bare with me.

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Use Polyurethane Rollers

Postby floater » Wed Dec 01, 2021 8:06 am

I replaced the failing black rollers with polyurethane rollers on a floppy roller trailer for my 1988 REVENGE 20 W-T. I've had no problems.

ASIDE: I look forward to replies as I've also wanted to convert my roller trailer to a bunk style

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Phil T
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POST #3 Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby Phil T » Wed Dec 01, 2021 8:39 am

The good news is there are not many parts to get and it only takes basic DIY skills.

You will want to remove the riser and the arms.

While Revenge and Outrage owners will post their preferences, the appropriate bunk setup involves four bunks. Two long and two short.

The bunk is a 2x6 covered in bunk carpet and attached with stainless staples. Look for decent 8-foot 2x6's at your lumber yard. Tight knots, no larger than 1" wide and not near or at the edge.

The bunk is attached using a adjustable bracket, attached with a U bolt, washers and nuts, and a pivot bracket, attached with nut, washers and bolt.

The bunk is attached to the pivot bracket with either a lag bolt (big screw) or through bolted with the nut recessed.

As for rollers, You will want 2-12" non-marring rollers on each cross member. The U bolt size will depend on the size of the cross member.

Supplies:

8" bracket with Pivot https://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Boat-Trailer-Bunk-Bracket-8-inch-Swivel-Top-Galvanized_p_277.html

12" bracket with Pivot https://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Boat-Trailer-Bunk-Bracket-12-inch-Swivel-Top-Galvanized-Support_p_279.html

U bolts (measure your frame) https://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/search.asp?keyword=galvanized+u+bolts

Lag screws https://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Bunk-Bracket-Lag-Screws_c_433.html

Staples https://www.homedepot.com/p/Arrow-T50-1-2-in-Stainless-Steel-Staples-1-000-Pack-508SS1/203030843

Keel rollers -


If you only want to go with single keel rollers for each cross member:
https://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/12-inch-Yellow-Poly-Vinyl-Boat-Trailer-Keel-Roller-and-Bracket-Kit-for-2x3-Cross-Members_p_1830.html

Double check you have the correct sized parts BEFORE you order. Measure twice, order once.
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Phil T
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby Phil T » Wed Dec 01, 2021 8:41 am

Given the size of the boat, I would suggest you get all the supplies, measure, and set the layout of the bunks, and then launch the boat at the ramp and do all the work in the parking lot. Should not take you more than 4 hours.

Having a non-skilled helper will speed things up alot.
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby jimh » Wed Dec 01, 2021 8:50 am

When I needed to work on my trailer, I launched the boat at a local marina and rented a slip. I explained to the marina operator I was just going to leave the boat there for about 24-hours without moving it while I worked on the boat trailer. He gave me a very fair and reduced slip rental rate.

While it may be possible to work at the launch ramp, I think the project will be better done at home. You will have access to electrical power, a bathroom, all your tools, and perhaps some help.

Also, at a launch ramp you can't really leave your boat at the dock there. Generally the courtesy docks at a launch ramp will be far too busy for you to leave your boat moored there for several hours.

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby jimh » Wed Dec 01, 2021 9:09 am

rnln wrote:Q1: How can the boat be lifted off the trailer to change all the trailer parts?
It may be possible to modify the trailer while the boat is sitting above the trailer, but that approach will make the work much more difficult. Also, I would not work under a boat that was temporarily jacked-up off its trailer.

rnln wrote:Q2: Where can I rent a boat jack?
I am not clear on what device you are seeking to rent. Generally a typical automotive trolley jack on rollers augmented with some lumber is easily capable of lifting the weight of a REVENGE 22 off the trailer at a particular spot. You can buy a small trolley jack at WALMART for under $30. It will be handy for changing tires on the trailer, too.

Here is an example:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough- ... W/33348135

I never travel on the highway with the boat trailer without one of these trolley jacks. I also keep some 4x4 lumber on the truck to add height to the jack lift if needed.

rnln wrote:Q3: Where can I rent jack stands?
You may be able to rent boat stands from a local boat yard.

rnln wrote:Bare with me.
I composed this reply while fully clothed. :-)

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby jimh » Wed Dec 01, 2021 2:23 pm

For a boat with the beam of a REVENGE 20, the critical factor in vertical positioning of the boat on a trailer is to have the hull chine located above the trailer fenders, as typically the beam of the boat will be too wide to fit between the trailer fenders. The goal in setting the vertical position of the boat on the trailer is to make the clearance of the chines above the trailer fenders as little as possible, with a clearance of perhaps 1-inch to 2-inch being a typical rigging.

The lower the boat is positioned on the trailer, the better in all regards, viz.:
  • the vertical height of the rig will be as low as possible
  • the center of gravity of the trailer and boat will be as low as possible
  • the wind resistance of the boat and trailer will be as low as possible
  • the depth of immersion of the trailer on a launching ramp needed for the stern of the boat to become buoyant will be as shallow as possible, and
  • the depth of immersion of the trailer on a loading ramp needed for the boat to float onto the rear part of the trailer will be as shallow as possible,
For all these reasons, lower vertical height on the trailer is desirable.

When initially setting up the bunks on a new trailer, you should make measurements and set the bunk position so the boat will load without interference with the fenders. After an initial trial loading, make careful observations of the boat vertical position. Remove the boat from the trailer, and then adjust the bunk height for a better (lower) position at the boat-fender point.

Once the vertical height of the boat on the trailer has been set with the bunks, keel rollers can be installed on the trailer cross-members. After initial installation (usually without the boat on the trailer to make the work easier), the boat can be re-loaded and the keel rollers can be raised to come into contact with the boat keel.

To transfer more loading onto the keel rollers, the boat can then be removed from the trailer, and the bunks lowered slightly. At this time it is useful to check the vertical alignment of the keel rollers using a taut string stretched down the centerline. The boat can then be reloaded, with the keel rollers now bearing almost all the weight. The bunk position can then be raised to contact the hull. This procedure should result in most of the weight bearing on the keel rollers.

In my experience, if the trailer cross-members are not straight, the typical keel roller bracket will not be high enough to reach the keel unless the cross-member is drilled with two holes to accommodate the lower keel roller bracket mounting bolts, which will go through the cross-member. This will permit the bracket to be raised much higher.

In my experience, a standard keel roller bracket, even if mounted with holes in the cross-member, may not provide enough vertical height to reach the keel at the transom of the boat. The bunks will carry the load at the transom. For this reason, a set of bunks spaced close to the keel should be used on the trailer to support the stern one-third of the boat.

When positioning and drilling any holes in the trailer frame cross-members, be certain to locate the holes on the exact vertical centerline of the cross-member; this will have the least effect on the strength of the cross-member. If the trailer is steel, galvanize or paint (as appropriate) the newly drilled holes to prevent rust.

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Thu Dec 02, 2021 3:53 pm

Thanks everyone,
I will slowly read it again to find a way to do it at home.
Thanks again.

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Mon Dec 13, 2021 9:52 pm

Thanks everyone. I appreciate all the information and opinions.

Q4: [What is the proper size for the] wood [for the bunks]?

PhilT said 2 x 6.

Q5: Do I make the 2x6 stand up vertical or lay it down horizontal?

If laid down, then [a 2 x 6] only has 1.5-inch thickness. Then I only have less than that, say one inch.

Q6: Will [a 2 x 6 laid down so only one-inch] be enough?

Q7: Will [a 2 x 6 laid down so only one-inch] be strong enough to hold the wood to support the boat safely?

If I use nut and bolt, I then have to drill the wood in to recess the bolt below the wood surface.

Q8: Can I use 4 x 4 wood?

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Mon Dec 13, 2021 9:53 pm

trailerViewHullBottom.jpg
Fig. 1. View of boat hull while on trailer.
trailerViewHullBottom.jpg (22.81 KiB) Viewed 5099 times


Q9: is the keel roller seen in Figure 1(partially obscured by a jagged yellow line) in the proper location?

In Figure 1 above the two red arrows point to where where I plan to install two bunks. I plan to install the bunks without lifting-up the boat, using this method:
  • install the outer bunks first, placing them against the hull
  • remove the original rollers, brackets, arms, mounts, etc.
  • install the inner bunks

Q10: can the above procedure be accomplished without lifting the boat?

I may jack-up the boat a tat, then drop it down right away after all the original rollers are removed.

Q11: will the only the two outer bunks [be] strong enough to support the boat while installing the inner bunks?

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby jimh » Tue Dec 14, 2021 9:43 am

rnln wrote:Q9: is the keel roller seen in Figure 1 (and partially obscured by a jagged yellow line) in the proper location?
Yes. All keel rollers are located exactly on keel centerline. That one appears to be held by welded-on brackets. There is no contact with the hull. The keel roller is not supporting any weight. This is typical for the aft-most keel roller. It only has contact with the hull keel at the initial point of the boat being loaded onto the submerged trailer. As the boat is hauled forward, the hull comes into contact with the bunks and other keel rollers.

Typically if the trailer has keel rollers, the inner pair of bunk boards will be located as close to center as the keel rollers permit.

rnln wrote:In Figure 1 above the two red arrows point to where where I plan to install two bunks.
The outer bunk boards would typically be farther outboard from keel center line than your plan shows.

rnln wrote:Q10: can the above procedure be accomplished without lifting the boat?
Perhaps, but working under the boat while on the trailer will be very awkward.

rnln wrote:Q11: will the only the two outer bunks [be] strong enough to support the boat while installing the inner bunks?
Yes.

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Phil T
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby Phil T » Tue Dec 14, 2021 9:50 am

*** Securing the boat to the trailer and blocking must be done with an abundance of caution and erring on the side of safety.

*** Do NOT park on unlevel and/or soft ground subject to movement.

*** Do NOT use undersized blocking materials.

*** Failure to use the proper techniques, materials can lead to death. Yours.

Attach trailer to tow vehicle.

Block the trailer wheels (front and back).

Install all keel rollers at their highest height possible.

Tie the starboard side to the trailer.

Block the port side of the hull

---- Safety check --- Push as hard as possible on the side of the boat at the rubrail trying to rack the hull. It should NOT move.

Only when items above are done...

Remove all the port side arms, rollers ect.

Install twin 2x6 bunks on the flat and associated hardware and fittings on the port side, snug up on the hull.

Remove blocking, remove ropes on starboard side.

Tie off port side.

Block starboard side.

Install twin 2x6 bunks on the flat on the port side snug up on the hull.
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby jimh » Tue Dec 14, 2021 10:28 am

Also regarding bunks: the large flat surface of the bunk board should be able to be oriented so the entire flat surface of the bunk meets the hull, not just some small portion or a corner of the bunk board. To allow that to occur, the bunk boards are usually mounted to hinged swivel mounts so the board can articulate to meet the hull surface. Some so-called bunk or "float-on" trailers use very large nearly square timbers, and the only part of the bunk that touches the hull is the inboard upper corner. That type "bunk" is not appropriate.

keelRollerBunkDetail.jpg
Fig. 2. Detail of keel roller and inner bunk positions. The inner bunks are located just outboard of the keel roller frames.
keelRollerBunkDetail.jpg (48.32 KiB) Viewed 5078 times

Figure 2 illustrates the position of the inner bunk relative to the keel centerline: as close as possible and limited only by the roller brackets.

Also not that on this particular trailer the trailer frame crossmember is not straight; the crossmember is bent downward in the center. This is often seen on trailer intended for larger boats. The effect of this with regard to installing keel rollers is the often the standard brackets for the keel rollers won't have enough height to position the roller to meet the hull's keel. As seen in Figure 2, the crossmember has been drilled with two new holes for the lower bracket mounting bolts. These holes MUST be drilled on the exact centerline of the crossmember (to prevent excessive weakening of its strength). With the lower mounting hole now able to be raised several inches by the new lower hole, the keel roller bracket can be raised far enough to meet the hull's keel and support it.

Note also the paired keel rollers and their brackets. Mounting in pairs greatly simplifies mounting hardware, doubles the support, and usually has no increase in labor; of course the costs are doubled, but worth the added expense in my opinion.

When drilling the hole be sure to apply galvanizing or paint to the hole to inhibit future rust.

Also illustrated in Figure 2 is the clearance provided for the vent lid on a forward hull through-hull drain. The inner bunk boards should not be able to come in contact with this vent lid. There will also be another similar vent lid on the through-hull drain for the aft cockpit Starboard sump drain located farther outboard from the keel, and in the same manner the outer bunk boards must be positioned to not come in contact with that vent lid.

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Tue Dec 14, 2021 4:06 pm

Thanks everyone,

I conclude:
  • the inner bunks should be as close as possible to the center line;
  • the outer bunks should be as far as possible to the center line
  • the keel rollers should be on all cross bars, high enough to touch the boat's keel
  • keel roller mounting in pair, meaning each cross bar will have one roller and mounting plate in front and one in the back of the cross bar

Q12: is the bunk lumber seen [in Figure 2] a 3 x 4?

Q13: is my boat sitting too high?

Q14: how much higher should the keel of the boat be compared to the top of the cross bar?

Q15: should the boat keel be 3-inches higher than the cross bar?

Q16: should the boat be 4-inches higher than the cross bar?


If [my conclusions as listed] above are correct, then my boat should sit a little lower.

Q17: will a lower boat height on the trailer be better and easier for me at the ramp?

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby jimh » Wed Dec 15, 2021 9:08 am

rnln wrote:[Is the] wood bunk...3x4?
Although the wood bunk seen in Figure 2 is from my own trailer, I have never measured its dimensions. I cannot answer your question at this time because I do not have access to the trailer. I suspect the dimension are about 3 x 4-inches.

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby jimh » Wed Dec 15, 2021 9:19 am

rnln wrote:The inner bunks should be as close as possible to the center line....
Please read my earlier remarks again.
rnln wrote:The outer bunks should be as far as possible, to the center line...
Please read my earlier remarks again.
rnln wrote:Keel roller mounting in pair, meaning each cross bar will have 1 (roller and mounting plate) in front and 1 in the back of the cross bar...
See Figure 2 again.
rnln wrote:Is my boat sitting too high now?
Figure 1 appears to show rather large vertical clearance between the boat hull and the trailer fenders, much more than suggested in my earlier remarks.
rnln wrote:How much higher should ...top of the keel roller...compare to the top of the cross bar?
This distance between the axle of the roller and the top of the crossmember is determined by the particular trailer and boat.
rnln wrote:...my boat should sit a little lower, which means it will be better..for me at the ramp
Reread my earlier comments that begin "The lower the boat is positioned on the trailer, the better in all regards..."

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Sat Mar 19, 2022 6:34 am

Thanks everyone for inputs.

Q18: what kind of 2x4 wood is good for bunks?

Douglas fir was recommended to me for bunks.

Q19: is Douglas Fir lumber sold at Home Depot not great?

Q20: would Redwood be superior to Douglas Fir from Home Depot for bunks?

Q21: would rough wood be superior to Douglas Fir from Home Depot for bunks?

I think the length of each bunk is between 10-feet and 12-feet.

Q22: should I install one bracket at each end of the 10 to 12-foot long bunk?

Q23: should I install one additional bracket in [the end brackets on the 10 to 12-foot long bunk}?

Thanks again.

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby jimh » Sat Mar 19, 2022 10:35 am

rnln wrote:Q18: what kind of 2x4 wood is good for bunks?
Bunks are usually not made from 2x4 lumber, so I don't have an answer if 2x4 lumber is "good for bunks."

rnln wrote:Q19: is Douglass Fir lumber sold at Home Depot not great?
I suspect the quality of the lumber available at a chain store like Home Deport will depend on the particular store. If you want prime wood, you may have to look elsewhere besides a big-box store that carries 100,000 non-lumber items.

rnln wrote:Q22: should I install one bracket at each end of the 10 to 12-foot long bunk?
The location of a supporting bracket for a bunk is generally determined by the location of the attachment point for the bracket on the trailer. The bunk may extend beyond the support for some distance, provided a lumber of suitable strength was used.

Regarding all your new questions about height of the boat keel above a cross member: please RE READ my earlier comments that begin with:

For a boat with the beam of a REVENGE 20, the critical factor in vertical positioning of the boat....


Re reading that response will allow you to understand what parameters will influence the height of the boat on the trailer. There are some interferences that cannot be worked around.

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby Phil T » Sat Mar 19, 2022 11:30 am

You have gotten lost in the weeds. I suggest you walk back to the meadow.

Reread my initial comments that detail what hardware and lumber you need.

Jim's [trailer's dual pivoting] bunks are not typical. I would not duplicate them.
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Sun Mar 20, 2022 7:13 am

[I am] reading the threads a little each time, remembered some, forgot some..
Thanks everyone again.

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby jimh » Sun Apr 24, 2022 8:01 am

The distance the chine can lie above the fender can be as little as one-inch, as mentioned previously in this discussion.

In Figure 3 I don't see a pivot on the bunks. Without a pivot the bunk broad face cannot lay against the hull.

As mentioned previously in this discussion, sitting the hull on the sharp corner of a non-aligned bunk is a very POOR practice.

See comments above that mention "pivot bracket" and caution that "the large flat surface of the bunk board should be able to be oriented so the entire flat surface of the bunk meets the hull, not just some small portion or a corner of the bunk board."

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Thu May 19, 2022 2:43 pm

I finally done with this proj. I want to say thanks to everyone.

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby Phil T » Thu May 19, 2022 3:32 pm

Rnin -

Don't leave us hanging....photos man!
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Thu May 19, 2022 5:24 pm

Thanks PhilT,
Your list from the beginning helped a lot. I will take pics, but my boat is still ugly, and I did it at the minimum to be good/safe to walk around on the boat from day to day. I will need to add more keel rollers and the guide bunks in the future when I am ready to take it to the water.

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Fri May 20, 2022 4:20 pm

IMG_1137_02.JPG
Fig. 3. Trailer originally with rollers
IMG_1137_02.JPG (134.79 KiB) Viewed 940 times


IMG_1310_02.jpg
Fig. 4. The wood bunks are cut to an angle to meet flush with the hull.
IMG_1310_02.jpg (203.23 KiB) Viewed 939 times


IMG_1311_02.jpg
Fig. 5. Wood given protective coating of polyurethane.
IMG_1311_02.jpg (163.57 KiB) Viewed 937 times

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Fri May 20, 2022 4:32 pm

IMG_1315_02.JPG
Fig. 6. The modified trailer now with wood bunks and keel rollers.
IMG_1315_02.JPG (166.84 KiB) Viewed 935 times


All parts are were purchased from

sturdybuiltonline.com

except the wood bunks. Thanks everyone for all information and opinions.

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby Phil T » Fri May 20, 2022 5:25 pm

The trailer set-up looks terrific.

When you get the chance, reposition the winch post and stand so the bow roller rests on top of the bow eye. By having it at that location, it keeps the bow from riding up in a emergency stop.
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Sat May 21, 2022 7:31 am

Without having prior experience on boat and trailer rigging, I am happy to hear Phil's assessment of my work. Thanks.

Re the position of the bow roller relative to the boat towing eye: should the winch assembly be lowered four or five inches and also moved closer to the bow so that the red roller is resting on the U-shape [bow towing] eye?

The point of that change point is not to let the boat jump while towing.

Am I correct?

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby Phil T » Sat May 21, 2022 10:29 am

rnln wrote:Re the position of the bow roller relative to the boat towing eye: should the winch assembly be lowered four or five inches and also moved closer to the bow so that the red roller is resting on the U-shape [bow towing] eye? The point of that change point is not to let the boat jump while towing. Am I correct?
That is correct.
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby jimh » Sat May 21, 2022 10:42 am

There is a serious problem with the winch rigging seen in Figure 6. The winch strap does NOT lead fair to the bow towing eye and is chafing on the winch stand. This is very poor rigging and should be corrected immediately before the strap wears from the chafing. If the winch and strap were original on the trailer, consider replacing the strap as there may be decay and loss of strength, particularly at the point of attachment to the hook.

After the winch stand is lowered and moved, the problem may go away. If not, the direction that the winch strap spools onto the winch drum may have to be changed so that the strap comes off the top of the winch drum to get better clearance. Again, if the winch is in its original rigging, it may not have been installed properly. Typically the winch strap pays off the drum at the top, not the bottom.

For advice on how to locate the bow stop roller relative to the boat towing eye, see the article in REFERENCE on boat trailer set up at

Trailer Rigging For Boston Whaler Boats
https://continuouswave.com/whaler/refer ... ailer.html

An illustration in that article shows the proper relationship between the bow stop roller and the boat towing eye.

Also, consider adding a hold-down strap from the bow eye to the trailer frame. This will help prevent the bow from bouncing when on the highway. Usually the winch strap is rigged so it exerts a perfectly horizontal or slightly upward pull onto the bow towing eye; having a lifting force vector on the winch strap will help pull the boat upward as it comes onto the final position at the bow stop roller or V-pad. A second strap pulling the bow towing eye downward will oppose that lifting force and stabilize the bow position on the trailer.

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby jimh » Sat May 21, 2022 11:28 am

In Figure 6, how is the forward (blue) keel roller bracket fastened to the trailer frame?

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby jimh » Sat May 21, 2022 11:43 am

Please show a view from astern that illustrates the position of the bunks relative to the hull runners. Show the starboard side so the aft cockpit sump drain outlet is in view.

floater
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby floater » Sun May 22, 2022 7:51 pm

Did you make those "L" shaped brackets that bolt the buns to the trailer?

rnln
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Mon May 23, 2022 9:12 pm

The position of the winch post is similar to that when I bought the trailer.

jimh wrote:There is a serious problem with the winch rigging seen in Figure 6....

I just checked on winch assembly and the cable, they still looks good.

I will adjust the post.

Thanks Phil and Jim


It looks like I have to touch everything on this boat, even things I thought were perfect.

rnln
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Mon May 23, 2022 9:15 pm

jimh wrote:In Figure 6, how is the forward (blue) keel roller bracket fastened to the trailer frame?
By two short bolts, bolted to the holes on the frame. That little short frame has some pre-drilled holes.

rnln
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Mon May 23, 2022 9:19 pm

jimh wrote:Please show a view from astern that illustrates the position of the bunks relative to the hull runners. Show the starboard side so the aft cockpit sump drain outlet is in view.
The bunk is 3-inches away from the drain sump clam shell. I will have to take pictures. I don't have any.

rnln
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Mon May 23, 2022 9:21 pm

floater wrote:Did you make those "L" shaped brackets that bolt the buns to the trailer?
No, they are from sturdybuiltonline. I wish I can make them.

rnln
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Mon Jun 06, 2022 6:45 am

IMG_1318_02.jpg
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Fig. 7. The starboard bunk is 2-3/4-inches away from the through hull drain.

IMG_1317_02.JPG
IMG_1317_02.JPG (143.91 KiB) Viewed 562 times
Fig. 8. The winch is now at the lowest possible height.

Thanks everyone,

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Phil T
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby Phil T » Mon Jun 06, 2022 3:14 pm

The roller really should be kissing the bottom of the eye.

If you can't drill out the roller arms to get a better angle, then install a ratchet strap from the eye down and slight aft to the frame.

In a crash the bow will want to go up and forward.

(We just want your trailer to be perfect)
1992 Outrage 17
2019 E-TEC 90
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Member since 2003

rnln
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby rnln » Mon Jun 06, 2022 8:16 pm

PHIL--I was thinking of getting the winch low enough to have the roller to rest on the eye as you mentioned earlier, but then I realized that this is the lowest it can get. Then I remember about the option Jim mentioned, the strap. I will do the strap when it is ready to get on the road. Right now, still a long way on fixing it up.

I totally understand that you guys are trying to help. Appreciate it Phil

Thanks everyone again.

floater
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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby floater » Tue Jun 07, 2022 8:01 am

That info about the bow eye being below and touching the bow stop is [good advice].

Recently [while towing the boat on the highway] I had to do an emergency stop [for a pedestrian]. I was only doing 30-KPH an hour. When I hammered on the brakes, the trailer made a big bang noise. All was well with the boat and trailer. The boat didn't even move. The pedestrian was also unharmed.

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Re: Converting Trailer to Bunks from Floppy Roller

Postby jimh » Tue Jun 07, 2022 11:15 am

Using a vertical hold down strap from the bow eye to the trailer frame will tend to prevent the bow of the boat from bouncing upward on the trailer in normal travel on the highway and the many bumps encountered on those roads.

With the distribution of weight on most boats well aft of amidships, due to the engine, batteries, fuel tanks, and other gear being more toward the transom than the bow, the weight on the bow is relatively light compared to the weight on the aft half of the boat.

With the winch strap pulling on the bow eye at perhaps a slightly upward angle, the bow may exhibit a tendency to bounce. This is the situation on my boat. The bow stop on my boat is provided by two rollers held in a frame. The bow eye is usually centered between them, and won't necessarily be jammed against the upper roller. The hold-down strap constraints vertical movement. Installation and removal of the bow strap takes just a moment. When the hold-down strap is unhooked, it remains on the trailer and hooked to the frame of the dual-roller bow stop.

For my normal launching ramp use, on the way home from the ramp (just under a one-mile trip), I have to descend a rather steep grade on my local street. There is seldom any traffic following me. I routinely make an abrupt and rapid deceleration to a stop on this downslope. This insures that the boat will shift forward if not already locked into position. When I reach home a moment later, I re-tension the winch. I don't like to leave the bow eye being pulled on by the winch with hundreds of pounds of force (for a month or more before its next use), nor do I want it too slack. I loosen and then re-tighten the winch to a moderate amount of tension.

Aside:
EMERGENCY STOPS
I only recall one situation in driving with the boat and trailer where I had to make an emergency stop. It occurred when an oncoming car in the other lane decided to turn left in front of me to enter a driveway, then stopped at the driveway, blocking the road. When he initiated the turn he was rather far ahead of me, but his stopping at the driveway was entirely unexpected, As one might expect, I hit the brakes very hard, resulting in a eight-wheel lock up (both car and trailer). Fortunately I was able to stop the almost 9,000-lbs of truck and boat in time to avoid hitting the other vehicle. The guy then calmly drove up the rather steep driveway to a home. I was so shaken by this almost-collision that I put on the emergency flashers, caught my breath, and went back to inspect the trailer. Fortunately, the guy following me also stopped in time, and there was no damage to the boat. This was also a good test of the trailer brakes, which on my trailer are on all four wheels.

Many inconsiderate people fail to appreciate how much greater braking effort will be needed to slow a truck towing a big boat compared to just a small car. For this reason I try to leave a very long distance ahead of my truck when driving in traffic.