CONTINUOUSWAVE

Q1: in a project to restore a a 1986 [unspecified model] [unspecified length] boat, should the hull be refinished first before painting and working on the wood?

Q2: can anti-fouling paint be removed from the hull bottom by someone inexperienced in this sort of work as long as the proper tools are used and good advice is followed?

Q3: what amount of difficulty will there be in removing [a 1993 Yamaha 40-HP] outboard engine and its rigging cables?

BACKSTORY
In Summer of 2025 I purchased my first boat, a 1986 Boston Whaler with a 1993 Yamaha 40-HP two-stroke-power-cycle engine. I took out the boat about a dozen times in salt ponds with my wife and son aboard. We love the boat. My plans were to become comfortable with trailering, launching, and reloading the boat during the summer, and then over the winter focus on repairs in order to be ready for a full season of boating in 2026.

The hull on this [unidentified model of unspecified length boat] is somewhat beat up, which is understandable as it is a 1986. I already have had some fiberglass work done to repair areas that could let in water.

I have never done fiberglass boat repairs. This forum seems to have great resources.

The hull bottom was poorly painted years ago poorly. I think a good refinishing would get [the hull bottom] in better shape.

We are having a blast with [the unidentified model of unspecified length] and want this boat to stay with us for a long time.

Mike

Mike--when soliciting advice about a boat, please include the model or family name of boat, such as MONTAUK, OUTRAGE, NEWPORT, and so on, and the length, such as 11, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, and so on.

RI Mike wrote:Q1: in a project to restore a a 1986 [unspecified model] [unspecified length] boat, should the hull be refinished first before painting and working on the wood?

Generally the best method to restore the finish on wooden parts is to remove them from the boat. The restored wood should not be reinstalled on the boat until all other repairs to the hull are complete.

RI Mike wrote:Q2: can anti-fouling paint be removed from the hull bottom by someone inexperienced in this sort of work as long as the proper tools are used and good advice is followed?

Generally old anti-fouling paint can be removed. The difficulty in doing that depends on the length and weight of the boat. Because you have provided no information about the boat length, model, and weight, I won't offer further advice until you clarify these unknowns.

RI Mike wrote:Q3: what amount of difficulty will there be in removing [a 1993 Yamaha 40-HP] outboard engine and its rigging cables?

Because you have identified the engine model, a cogent answer can be given.

The degree of difficulty will depend primarily on the weight of the engine and your strength. Typically a 40-HP engine at 152-lbs will be too heavy to manhandle. You will need to use some sort of overhead lift to support the engine immediately after unfastening it from the transom.

Typically a 40-HP engine will be mounted on the transom by through-bolting, using four bolts. You should rig the overhead support to the engine before removing any mounting bolts.

If you have a garage there may be enough height to rig a block and tackle or ratchet-strap to an overhead beam. Once off the boat, the engine should immediately be securely fastened to a stand that is sufficiently strong and stable that it can bear the engine weight for months of storage in the normal upright position while you work on the hull.

Great point and thank you for the reply. It’s a [1986] SPORT 13.

Thanks for clarification that the boat under discussion is a 1986 SPORT 13.

Regarding working on the hull bottom to remove old anti-fouling paint, my inference is you no longer want or need the hull to have anti-fouling paint, so the end result is to restore the hull bottom to the original gel coat resin finish. On that basis I suggest this approach:

• first remove the engine, and any other loose gear in the cockpit;
• if planning to restore the wood, then remove all the wooden components from the cockpit;
• assemble a crew of at least three more adult men of good strength and agility;
• position the trailer and boat under a big tree limb near the garage or intended work area;
• lift the hull off the trailer supports;
• carefully pull the trailer forward and out from under the hull;
• lower the hull to rest on the ground;
• carefully invert the hull onto supports that are high enough to raise it off the ground to a convenient height;
• with four men, carry the boat to the ultimate working area, perhaps a garage, and lower it back onto the supports, moved by two other assistants

You'll need to pre-engineer and built any necessary supports such as saw horses or overhead frames to attach lifting lines or locate a good tree limb.

Once you get the hull inverted and at a convenient height for working on removal of the anti-fouling paint, your options will be:

• use a harsh chemical solvent to remove the majority of the remaining bottom paint
• or, use abrasives and sanding to remove the bottom paint.

Both methods produce a residual product, either goop or dust, which needs to be carefully disposed. Many bottom paints have metal in them or other biocides. Do not get the residue on your lawn or you will kill the grass.

Removal of bottom paint may reveal some damaged areas. These will need to be repaired. Because the hull bottom will seldom be in plain view during trailering or operation of the boat, the cosmetic appearance of the hull bottom is secondary to its complete waterproof integrity and mechanical strength.

If my inference was wrong, and you plan to repaint the hull bottom with new bottom paint, then you can more easily so that with the boat on the trailer, but temporarily elevated to repaint certain areas which were not accessible due to trailer supports such as rollers or bunks.

At this point I will stop offering advice, as there are three topics. To get advice on repairs methods, you should start a separate thread on each particular repair. In that way you won't have a confusing mix of advice on different parts of your restoration.

Also, you should assess if your passion for boating is using the boat or making the boat look like it has never been used. It is hard to accommodate both goals in one boat.

I'm guessing you have a 13-foot Sport. A number of years ago I purchased 13-foot Sport as a project, where the previous owner had removed and refinished the woodwork and fitted a new steering system. The hull was in fair condition, so I chose to refinish it inside and out. In retrospect, it was too much work for what it achieved. The surface preparation seemed endless, and many coats of expensive paint were required. Reinstalling the interior and rigging the motor were not difficult with an assistant.