CONTINUOUSWAVE

Here is the fit-up of the new transom core material (coosa board) on my 1995 19ft Sentry. I selected 1" thick material because the wood that came out was 2" thick and I want to stagger the seams of the core material. I left a 4" flange around the perimeter of the cutout on the transom so that the flange can be tapered when re-glassing. That flange requires the core material to be fitted in multiple sections but with staggered seams there should be enough strength without a full size sheet. It was also cheaper bringing in 1/3 sheets than a full size sheet anyway.




Soon I will fit up the second layer, butter it up with epoxy and filler, then vacuum bag and glass it all in.

Great work - now that's the way to repair a transom! I assume you'll place the seams away from the motor mount holes?

Flymo

Yes, the seams will be staggered farther apart on the next layer. Think of an imaginary line down the middle of the two outboard pieces already installed in the above picture and the middle section being wider than the first one. Pictures will be able to explain better. I haven't had time this week to do much on the transom with the weather being pretty cold, the wife deciding to paint the house, time with the kiddos, and the material for the new fuel tank arriving. The new fuel tank build will have to be on a new thread since this one is about the transom. Suffice it to say that the old fuel tank had too much corrosion on the outside to be reused so I am welding up a new one.

Here are the next layers staggered and then bonded to each other. The outer skin is then bonded on. I vacuum bagged the transom to squeeze the layers together and also used clamps over the bag. Next step is to feather the seam where the skin was cut and reglass that so the original skin strength is restored.