CONTINUOUSWAVE

We are new to power boating and have a new Montauk 190. It has no bow rail due to having the trolling motor electrical hookups on the bow. (This factory option deletes the bow rail).

How would you go about attaching fenders up closer towards the bow? On a slip with docks on both sides, it's a non-issue, of course, but pulling up to a courtesy dock or a one-sided slip, I don't feel like the hull is protected from two fenders too far aft. See pic.

Should I add a cleat up there? Or, maybe just "sheet-in" (forgive the sailing term) the aft dock line more?

We rented an overnight slip this past weekend, and they wanted me to use the end of the dock, exposed to wave/wind, and I declined for fear of damaging the boat. They (miraculously) found me a better/safer slip. Maybe I shouldn't have been concerned, but my gut said "no".

While some will dismiss my advice for being a bit excessive, my 10 years of boating included docking at piers and floats of different heights (not universal) and unprotected from wakes and waves.

You fenders are terrribly undersized. Guessing dealer "gave" them to you.

To protect the boat use 8" diameter x 16 fenders with a hole through the middle (HTM). This allows you to rig it vertical or horizontal depending on what you are tied up against. The larger diameter keeps the boat farther off the dock. Farther away = less damage.

Choice of colors -
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/fender-ribbed-center-hole-44475.html

Use a 6' whip to hang off a rail or along side a rail.
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/fender-whips-double-braid-nylon-42823.html

To attach the fender in the bow area, run a line from the bow cleat forward and around the chock and back to the forward edge of the rail. Off that line, tie off your fender. This allows you to adjust the location of the fender to suit the boat/float position. I would put it just forward of the seam of the two floats in the photo.

You can mount a small cleat/hook to the inside of the gunwale.
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/fender-hook-chrome-plated-zinc-1-4--max-line-26268.html
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/cleat-open-base-4--black-2-hole--3-8-rope-28979.html

Here is my old setup:


For my Outrage 17, I switched to round buoys to gain more protection:

Phil T wrote:You fenders are terrribly undersized. Guessing dealer "gave" them to you.

That's an excellent (and correct) guess. He also "gave" me an anchor. Probably a bit undersized Danforth.

Thanks for the advice, we'll pop for some bigger ones.

Good advice from Phil.

On our Montauk I don't use fenders in a slip. However, the tidal range here on the Gulf is slight, say around a foot. Small lakes, of course, have no measurable tide. In a slip I simply adjust my five mooring lines to make it virtually impossible for the hull to touch the piers.

Mooring side to is done much as you did in the photo. I take in the aft mooring line until the rear most fender is slightly compressed against the seawall or dock. I've used this method for temporary mooring on a busy and narrow section of the GICW (Tacky Jacks in Gulf Shores) with a lot of barge and large yacht traffic passing by. I believe larger fenders are indicated for your Montauk. You may want to look into fabric fender covers for your cylindrical fenders. I've never used the ball shaped fenders.

It's nice to know you're enjoying your new boat!

I concur with Phil and Butch on this topic but would add that when at all possible, try to configure the fenders to contact only rub rail. Fenders rubbing on gelcoat tend to rub off the wax from my experience and should be avoided. My first choice is always to go fender-less using lines, however if I raft off with folks those fenders are only in contact with rub rail. When I slip my boat I usually leave the lines at the dock with the looped ends for my boat cleats and the bitter ends on the dock cleats. Makes it easier and quicker to tie off when I return. I carry 5 lines, two bow lines, two stern lines, one spring line. When tied off properly, the boat is close to the dock but under no circumstances touches it. Drives the wife crazy that I will fiddle with my lines "forever" to get them just right. At least it keeps me occupied and out of trouble!

You will need some hard attachment points forward. Research for strength and less protruding and invasive for the humans. Suction cups do not work.

Your fear of the end of the dock is most real. Look around at the overall picture. Unless the dock end is very protected from waves and passing boat wakes, do not do it. One large wave set may put you on the dock.

On any Boston Whaler hull you need a good fender forward to protect the chine line. At the bow, install two dedicated smaller cleats on the inwales. Find a location with some backing material. Use another fender at the stern, about a foot forward from the transom.

Your tie-up to the dock (as shown below) was terrible. The boat would have been damaged as the chine line near the bow abraded on the dock. You used very good judgement in not leaving the boat unattended like that.



I have used white vinyl fenders for years and never seen any problem with them causing damage to the hull gel coat. Big yachties often get soft fabric covers for the fenders. The hulls of big yachts are painted, not gel coat resin, and the paint could be abraded. Also, the forces involved with big boats are bigger forces. If you are really worried about a fender abrading the gel coat, buy a fabric cover for the fender.

I often sleep aboard while tied to the dock or rafted to other boats at anchor To reduce fender squeaking noise I just give the fender a spray of boat soap and water. That stops the noise and reduces friction.