CONTINUOUSWAVE

I’m planning an exterior refinish to a 1963 13 Standard. The freeboard is painted and spider cracked as you would expect, and the bottom has multiple layers of anti-fouling paint. Had a beautifully easy time removing the original rub rail thanks to a heat gun; it pulled off very little gelcoat.

Next I’ll be moving into the sanding and stripping stage, and any tips are welcomed.

Should I re-coat with paint, perhaps Awl-grip, or should I apply gel coat?

Aside from the original style, one piece, glue on rub rail and the three-piece system recommended by Boston these days, are the other options? Of these options I would lean towards the one piece to keep the boat original despite its limited practicality. If there was such thing as a slightly more protective one piece or a two-piece that was less bulky than the three piece I would consider it. Thanks!

There are likely many other rub railings that could be adapted to use on a 13-foot hull. Browse catalogues from rub rail manufacturers to see what might be workable. The 13-footer that has been a boatyard work boat in my area for decades has complete fendering instead of a rub rail, with the fendering made from some sort of rope-woven material that you might see on larger work boats. That is just one of many options.

As for maintaining authenticity of the rub rail used, this is your decision. If you want a c.1963 look, you'll have to put up with the white rub rail held in place with adhesives. That Boston Whaler never used this again might be an indication of their opinion about which method is preferred.

If the original gel coat surface of the 1963 boat is beyond restoration, then the choice of what new top coat to use is probably going to be determined by your own experience or desires. It sounds like you plan to perform the application of the top coat yourself. If so, then you are in a better position to judge what method will give you the best outcome.

The advantage of using gel coat resin in an in-mold application is that the thickness of the gel coat layer can be about 0.020-inch. This provides enough thickness that minor flaws can usually be repaired by a slight abrasion, buffing, and polishing. I don't know much about spraying on gel coat on the exterior of the hull. I don't know what sort of thickness can be obtained. I don't know if it will be as thick as the in-mold application, and if it will retain the advantages of the original. Better counsel is needed than I can give.

With paint the top coat layer will not be as thick as the original gel coat, and any flaws or damage will have to remedied by touching up with new paint. But paint seems to be simpler and easier to apply, at least from my non-informed point of view.

Good stuff Jimh. Thanks.