CONTINUOUSWAVE

My new boat is a 2000 Dauntless 16.

Neither [the combined sidelight lamp or the white all-round lamp] works. Their lightbulbs are good, but there is no power at the lamps. At the switch that controls them there is 12-Volts.

Is there a ground connection that the [combined sidelight lamp] and [white all-round] lamp share that is not at the dash panel switch?

Am I correct with these interpretations:

1. The all-gray wire is for the [combined sidelight lamp].
2. The gray-with-white-stripe wire is for the [white all-round lamp].
3. The brown-yellow wire is for the bait tank; this boat does not have a bait tank. This wire should not be hooked up.

Thanks

I don't see an electrical schematic diagram available on WHALER.COM for the 2000 DAUNTLESS 16. Here is a diagram for a later model, c.2010, which might be useful as a guide:

http://bostonwhaler.com.s3.amazonaws.com/resources/180-Dauntless-Wiring-Diagram-and-Parts-List-2010.pdf

If a circuit appears to have no power, the first element of the circuit to check is any sort of current protection device, like a fuse or circuit breaker. You mention you see 12-Volts at the switch, so that should indicate the fuse or circuit breaker is in a normal state.

Generally Boston Whaler wiring insulation colors follow the color coding scheme described in an article in the REFERENCE section. See

Marine Wiring Color Codes
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/wireColorCode.html#BW

The wire colors for the positive circuit are as you surmised: gray for the combined sidelight lamp, and gray-with-white for the white-all-round lamp.

Generally the positive circuit feeding the lamps passes through a switch so the lamps can be controlled. The negative circuit of the lamps generally is wired to the the negative power distribution bus at the helm area.

B.E.Coyote wrote:Is there a ground connection that the [combined sidelight lamp] and [white all-round] lamp share that is not at the dash panel switch?

The negative circuit should be on conductors with black insulation. Note that in a typical wiring arrangement the black negative conductors from the lamps will NOT run anywhere near the switch that controls them. If there is a black conductor at the switch, that conductor is probably part of the LAMP GROUND circuit of the switch if an illuminated switch.

It is often seen that Boston Whaler will use a paired flat cable with gray and black conductors (often called zip cord) for wiring of the navigation lamps.

When you attempt to make a measurement of voltage at the lamp sockets, connect your voltmeter positive lead to the GRAY or GRAY-WHITE conductor, but connect the [negative] lead of the voltmeter with an extension cable back to the secondary power distribution panel bus. If that measurement shows NO power at the lamp, there is an open in the positive circuit. If that measurement shows power at the lamp sockets, then re-check with the voltmeter negative on the socket. If that measurement shows no power, there is an open in the negative circuit somewhere.

There is a schematic diagram that shows the typical navigation lamp wiring in older models of Boston Whaler boats at

Navigation Lamp Wiring
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/navLightSwitch.html

Thank you.

Making progress.

I was thinking there was a problem with the [negative circuit of the navigation lamp wiring].

I pulled the [white all-round lamp] socket and found the wires going to the [white all-round lamp] run to the [stern] of the boat, under the [white all-round lamp], into some conduit in the corner, and [then] to the [combined sidelight lamp] itself. I used some taps and put power to the [combined sidelight lamp] with a small battery. It works fine from that corner on.

I ran a wire from the battery [negative terminal] to the [white all-round lamp]. I hooked up that [negative circuit] wire to my [Voltmeter]. Then with just the gray-white wire hooked up at the switch and with the switch on I tested the [white all-round lamp] socket. [There was] power on both terminals.

[The problem] turns out [to be] the [white all-round lamp] socket drain hole clogged and had filled with water and gunk at the bottom. I disconnected and cleaned. The socket itself and my [white all-round lamp] work fine.

Closing in [to the solution]. Tomorrow I will figure out the rest.

As far as I can figure out, on this 2000 DAUNTLESS 16 there are only two lamps: the combined sidelight lamp and the white all-round lamp. It would be much clearer if you would just use those names for these two lamps instead of other names for them.

"Running lights" intends to mean the lights that a POWER DRIVEN VESSEL shows to other vessels when it is UNDERWAY. The term UNDERWAY is defined in the federal regulations and the lights to be shown when UNDERWAY are specified there. From RULE 3:

The word “underway” means that a vessel is not at anchor, or made fast to the shore, or aground.

"Anchor lights" are the lights that a vessel shows to other vessels when at anchor.

When discussing navigation lighting, the "light" is what is seen by other boats. The light comes from lamps or more quaintly, "lanterns." The lamps have names, like combined sidelight lamp and white all-round lamp.

Electrical wires connect to a lamp, not to light.

I give a very detailed explanation of the navigation lamp wiring and switching arrangements often seen in newer Boston Whaler boats in a separate thread in SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL. See

Navigation Lamp Circuits Used on Newer Boston Whaler Boats
http://continuouswave.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=4136

You may find this helpful in diagnosing the problem you are attempting to remedy on your boat.