- worried that the motor would collide with the bow rail when deployed,
- wanted to avoid cutting or removing the rail, and
- was not certain that I'd be able to find the rigging tunnel shown in the Boston Whaler manual running between the bow and the center console.
The motor and the quick release mount
I selected the Minn Kota Riptide Powerdrive 70-lbs 54-inch shaft with i-Pilot motor. Because the Powerdrive model swings in a lower arc when deployed and misses the railing, I picked the Riptide movel over the Terrova model. I chose a 24-Volt two-battery system because Boston Whaler boats are heavy, and I didn't want the boat to be underpowered--even though I use it on Colorado lakes.
I mounted the Powerdrive motor with the Minn Kota RTA 17 quick release mount ($75), which uses a rectangular quick-release mounting base that mounts to the deck and a U-shaped pin that pulls out for removal. Because the boat rub rail protrudes higher than the deck surface, I had to raise the mounting base with a 3/8-inch plastic sub0base so that the motor mount would be clear above the bumper. I could have splurged for KING Starboard but found that a 3/8-inch white plastic cutting board for about $5 was almost identical and lots cheaper. I cut it to match the shape of the mounting base, with a second piece cut to match the base that mounts to motor (and trimmed in a curve to avoid the edge bumper). They nest together perfectly and look really clean.
Positioning the puck takes great care to be sure that the motor swing arc misses the rail. I marked the location with blue painter's tape and used rubber C-clamps (and a helper) to hold the assembly on the bow and checked the swing multiple times to be sure it cleared in the up and down positions before screwing it down. From inside the boat it takes a little extra leverage to reach down and swing the motor (which clears the rail by about 1 1/2"), before sliding it back, but it is not difficult.
- Fig. 1. The Final installation. The trolling motor swings clear of the rail by about 1-1/2-inches.
- Installed Panel.jpg (146.44 KiB) Viewed 8724 times
- Fig. 2. The Quick-release mounting base is raised on a 3/8-inch sub-base.
- Quick Release Puck.jpg (161.37 KiB) Viewed 8724 times
Wiring and Batteries
I bought a Battery Tender trolling motor plug ($60) which is beefier than the Minn Kota version, has a better face plate to mount to the fiberglass (since you can't reach behind the fiberglass to thru-bolt), and has a twist knob that securely holds the motor cord in the plug when in use. Underneath the bow cleat I drilled two 1-inch holes in the fiberglass and cut out the scrap in between with a Dremel tool to create a hole for the the plug. To my relief, I discovered a void behind the fiberglass at this location, somewhat like a plastic box about 10 wide x 3 high x 6-inches deep. I could see the wiring to the bow light in there, and I was able to push an electrician's fish-tape into the box and to the right, where it went into a wiring conduit or rigging tunnel. The tunnel led beneath the deck and popped up through a 2-inch-diameter hole at the center console. With some effort, I pulled two 6-AWG wires through the conduit to connect the trolling plug, and installed a 60-Ampere circuit breaker at the console.
Next, I connected two 12-Volt Group 27 AGM deep-cycle marine batteries (about $200 each at Batteries Plus) in series and mounted them with tie downs and straps in the console just ahead of the 12-Volt cranking battery. I added some Sea-Dog-brand battery terminal covers since the terminals were exposed. Finally, I added a Minn Kota Precision MK 330 3-bank battery charger ($285), which was small enough to fit on the bottom deck of the console, and connected the battery charger to a Marinco Parkpower 15-Ampere power inlet ($12) that I mounted in the toe kick of the console to make connecting to shore power easier.
- Fig. 3. Two trolling motor batteries, one starter battery, and a three-bank battery charger are mounted in the center console.
- Batteries Charger.jpg (185.83 KiB) Viewed 8724 times
Overall the installation of the trolling motor on the bow of the 170 MONTAUK took most of a day and multiple trips to the hardware and auto parts stores for various stainless steel fasteners and battery connectors. The outcome was great. I hope this presentation saves someone else the learning curve that I went through.