CONTINUOUSWAVE

Q1: is the original wiring [to the bow from the aft terminal block] within the hull and inner deck [on a c.1984 SPORT 15] free to move?

Q2: has the wiring to the combined sidelight on a c.1984 SPORT 15 been replaced by using the original wires as a pull cord to pull in new wires?

BACKSTORY:

I am in process of refinishing wood and other refurbishing of my 1984 SPORT 15. I have cleaned up the stern light and lighting terminal block on port stern area.

Examination of [the combined sidelights lamp] shows it to be very clean. The new bulb and ring terminal at terminal block both lights were bright and seemingly ready to for use When tucking-in the bow wires to replace the terminal block cover I realized the wire at the new negative ring terminal was already weakened just from minor movement.

I would like to replace the length of wire from terminal block to navigation lamp, but wonder if it is secured in anyway in the run along the port side. My plan is to solder on a new length of two-conductor flat cable, and use the old to pull in the new.

I may be able to make a good connection at the terminal block with existing wire but prefer to pull in new.

Thanks, and best regards— Strait

The wiring to the bow in my 1985 15 Sport runs behind the rub rail.

As T noted above, the wiring runs from the lamp base forward through a small hole in the cap and travels between the rubrail "receiver" and the rubrail "insert" to a spot on the aft quarter were it transits through the hull to a junction box mounted on the interior gunwale.

To replace the wire, remove the insert on one side, starting at the rear up to and just past the bow light.

Marine speaker wire is the appropriate gauge and has the acceptable sheathing to fit into the void between the receiver and the insert. Seal the newly installed wire where it enters and exits the hull with a marine sealant (eg. Life Caulk, not 4200).

When re-installing the insert, you will want to fit it in the grooves. A rubber mallet will help if it hard to seat. Use incremental force to limit the potential damage to the sometime brittle receiver. A hot day will help. If necessary, coil the removed insert in a tub of hot water to keep it flexible,

A second set of hands will help the installation process. Note- Save the drinks until after the installation is complete.

A1: no.

A2: no.


See the FAQ for an answer to this frequently asked question:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q4

A hair dryer will be useful to warm the vinyl rub rail insert to increase its flexibility. Take care with c.1984 plastic and vinyl components; long exposure to sunlight may have made them more stiff and brittle.

If the original wiring is working, perhaps use of a paint-on insulation (“liquid electrical tape” product) could be a simpler solution to the problem of frayed wire insulation.