CONTINUOUSWAVE

I bought [a 1998 OUTRAGE 17] boat from an owner who had the boat sitting for eight years.

I notice fuel at the bottom [of the bilge] when I opened the bilge. I unscrewed a drain plug on the forward wall of the bilge and more came out.

Is a new fuel tank needed?

To determine if a new fuel tank is needed, what must be checked?

Fuel cannot be pulled into the primer bulb, and no fuel reaches the engine.

I am new to boating. This is my first Boston Whaler boat. Thanks for any help.

azegarra43 wrote:To determine if a new fuel tank is needed, what must be checked?

The fuel tank integrity can be assessed with a pressure test. Contact the Boston Whaler customer support to verify the manufacturer of the fuel tank. Contact the manufacturer of the fuel tank to get the recommended maximum positive internal pressure in the tank for testing purposes. Generally only a very limited positive pressure in the tank can be tolerated, usually only a few PSI. However, since you are new to boating, you probably are not able to perform this test yourself. A reasonable plan of action for you and your situation may be to hire an experienced boat mechanic to look into this problem. Working with a fuel like gasoline that is leaking into sumps can be dangerous.

azegarra43 wrote:Is a new fuel tank needed?

I don't think there is any reasonable basis for a reader of your brief comments and descriptions to be able to determine with any certainty where the gasoline you found outside of the fuel tank came from, and on that basis for a reader to make a determination that the fuel tank must be replaced would be speculative.

Generally gasoline leaking from a fuel tank is very easily detected by smell. However, if the gasoline fuel in the fuel tank is eight years old, its vapors may have lost some of the characteristic gasoline aroma. Eight-year-old gasoline needs to be discarded. It is likely no longer fit for use in an outboard engine.

azegarra43 wrote:Fuel cannot be pulled into the primer bulb, and no fuel reaches the engine.

What is the level of fuel in the fuel tank?

If the primer bulb is not drawing fuel out of the tank, their could be a leak in the fuel hoses upstream of the primer bulb, or the primer bulb could be defective. For advice on using a primer bulb as a diagnostic tool, see my article:

A Primer on Primers
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/primer.html

Your boat needs a lot of work done. First job is draining the tank of the skank fuel and possibly flushing out the fuel tank. The engine carburetors will most likely need to be cleaned, as well. The engine water pump needs to be serviced. The engine gear case oil needs to be replaced. The engine spark plugs need to be replaced.

Due to sitting eight years, the boat probably should have all new fuel hoses to make sure they are ethanol tolerant.

If the 1998 Outrage 17 has a poly fuel tank as did many Boston Whaler boats of that era it is less likely the tank has developed a leak than if the tank is aluminum. I would carefully check all the fuel lines. If they seem old or original they should be replaced as a matter of preventive maintenance. The fuel tank vent line should be included in the inspection or replacement. Also check the fuel level sending unit in the tank top for potential leaks. Remove and dispose of the old fuel and pressure test the tank as previously suggested.

My experience with under deck poly tanks is that a gasoline smell is always present and the smell is particularly strong if the boat has been sitting for several hours without use. Opening the console door for a few minutes will moderate the odor.

Any aftermarket fuel filters should be inspected and serviced during this process.

It would be wise to follow the advice above.

I would only suggest taking a methodical approach and starting with the easier bits first.

Vent the fuel tank cavity via the drain plug, and open the inspection ports.

Drain the fuel tank and dispose of the liquid, formerly gasoline, with a authorized disposal company.

Given the boat has been sitting disused and uncared for, I would replace the fuel fill, fuel vent, and fuel supply hoses. This can be a DIY.

Have the tank tested (2-PSI) in situ, by a vendor that has experience with tank testing.

Thanks to everyone for the help. I am looking for a local mechanic for a pressure test on the fuel tank, and for replacement of fuel hoses. I will post results.

ASIDE: regarding a "bilge" space on a Unibond hull, please see the FAQ Answer on this topic at

Q14: Does a Boston Whaler Unibond Hull Have a Bilge Space?
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q14

A typical Boston Whaler boat will have several through-hull drains that open to the sea on the hull bottom. For advice on how to manage these drains see your Boston Whaler owner's manual. On-line versions of the Boston Whaler owner's manual from the 1980's have been created and can be read at

9-foot to 17-foot Hulls
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/manual9-17/

18-foot to 25-foot Hulls
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/manual18-25/

I pulled out the fuel tank and ordered another one from Vince at American Tanks in San Diego. The cost is $840 for the new tank and peace of mind. Also I am installing a new fuel line and filler hose. Thanks for all the advice and info. I do have one last question:

Should I use an aluminum or brass fitting for the fuel line?

This was a great project and helped me learn the inner workings of my new boat.

[Moderator's note: the original image was taken with a deep shadow on the right side of the image. I applied exposure compensation in order to make visible the details of the tank installation on the right side of the image--jimh.]

Wow--you work very fast.

Give readers more description of what you found when you inspected the fuel tank.

Was the tank made of aluminum or polyester?

In your image, the fuel hose connection area looks very corroded. Was that the situation?

What are all the fuel hoses for? Usually there are only three hoses: fuel filler, tank vent, fuel withdraw.

Also, the fuel withdraw point is often at the stern end of the tank. In your picture the fuel withdraw hose looks like it is at the same location as the fuel filler hose.

The process of removing the fuel tank from the hull was not too bad. I used flat-blade screwdriver pushed through the foam all around the tank. This took time but was not hard.

The OEM fuel tank depth is onLY 6-inches on the outside edges. The fuel tank has a v-bottom shape that matches the fuel tank cavity molded into the hull.

The fuel hoses that connect to the tank are a filleR hose, vent hose, and fuel withdrawal hose to the engine. The other two hoses that go to the stern of the boat [as seen in Figure 1] are for a sump pump and an on-deck live well.

To lift the tank I used a small 1/4-Ton chain lift and a 2 x 6 plank, along with some tie down straps. To free the tank from the hull, I removed the fuel sender plate and used a hook to lift the tank. I put some upward pressure on the tank and inserted a crowbar at the sides of the tank. I wiggled the fuel tank a bit, and it pulled loose.

There was a hole in the fuel tank at the lowest point of the tank closest to the stern of the boat. I think the reason the fuel tank corroded was because the plug for the fuel cavity was left in during storage. There was sitting water under the tank after removal. At the primary spot of corrosion only a tap was needed to open a thumb-size hole.

I am currently cleaning the fuel tank cavity area and getting ready for my reinstall.







Once the new fuel tank is installed I will post more information.

I have learned so much and am glad I did the project myself. I know my boat inside and out now.

I plan to install hydraulic steering and replace all wiring at this time since the deck and console are up. The 1998 OUTRAGE 17 boat will then be in perfect shape for the rest of summer. [Good topics for separate threads--jimh]