On my OUTRAGE 18 I opened the rear fuel sender unit to completely clean out the tank. All looks good and I am trying to find a replacement gasket for the unit. The gasket is about 6-inches and had eight screws.
Where can a replacement gasket be gotten?
ASIDE: In 2019 I bought an OUTRAGE 18—my dream boat. I am re-powering the OUTRAGE 18 with a Mercury 115-HP from twin 70-HP engines.
Outrage 18 Fuel Tank Gasket Source
How To Make Your Own Fuel Tank Gasket
I replaced my 1986 Outrage 18 fuel line outlet and inspection port gasket with Buna-N material. Thickness was approximately one eighth of an inch. The durometer was approximately 70.
Clean surfaces well and use Permatex number two on both surfaces.
I purchased what I recall to be one foot square sheet of this material from Grainger. I believe I found the durometer information on this website somewhere.
The tank is tapped to accept the screws which hold the inspection plate in position. It all came apart fairly easily.
I will mention that you may be better off cutting the outside diameter of the gasket slightly bigger than the inspection plate and just add a hole for the fuel pickup tube. This is how the gasket I removed was made. This will help maintain the gasket position. The original was distorted and appeared to have softened up and drooped away from the inspection plate. To eliminate what appeared to be a sloppy big sheet of gasket material, I made my gasket in a ring configuration with the ring being approximately one inch wide. I found that the ring would "squirt" out given the Permatex number two when I tightened down the inspection plate.
In hindsight the ring gasket idea created the "squirt" problem.
A leather hole punch works great for the screw holes, but keep them just slightly bigger than the screws and accurately located to minimize the "squirt".
My pickup tube did not have a screen on the end and the elbow did not have a fuel check valve. I left it that way, but I have a Racor filter in the fuel line. You may find some fuel treatment cap material and dirt in there that you can clean out.
Clean surfaces well and use Permatex number two on both surfaces.
I purchased what I recall to be one foot square sheet of this material from Grainger. I believe I found the durometer information on this website somewhere.
The tank is tapped to accept the screws which hold the inspection plate in position. It all came apart fairly easily.
I will mention that you may be better off cutting the outside diameter of the gasket slightly bigger than the inspection plate and just add a hole for the fuel pickup tube. This is how the gasket I removed was made. This will help maintain the gasket position. The original was distorted and appeared to have softened up and drooped away from the inspection plate. To eliminate what appeared to be a sloppy big sheet of gasket material, I made my gasket in a ring configuration with the ring being approximately one inch wide. I found that the ring would "squirt" out given the Permatex number two when I tightened down the inspection plate.
In hindsight the ring gasket idea created the "squirt" problem.
A leather hole punch works great for the screw holes, but keep them just slightly bigger than the screws and accurately located to minimize the "squirt".
My pickup tube did not have a screen on the end and the elbow did not have a fuel check valve. I left it that way, but I have a Racor filter in the fuel line. You may find some fuel treatment cap material and dirt in there that you can clean out.