1974 OUTRAGE: Identify Bolts in Motor Well; Adhesive Used to Join Hull Sections

[Sunnybreeze]

On my recently purchased 1974 Outrage in the bottom of the engine splash well there are two stainless stainless bolts pointing straight downward.

Q1: are these bolts part of the engine mounting?

Q2: what is the purpose of these bolts?

I have removed the rub rail. I plan to separate the upper deck from the hull. It's a major project.

Q3: how is the upper deck molded component adhered to the hull?

Q4: has this been done before by anyone reading this post?

ASIDE. I am in Maine. This 1974 OUTRAGE is my third Boston Whaler boat to be rebuilt. --Steve

[jimh]

Q5: What is the length of this 1974 OUTRAGE?

When discussing a particular boat, be sure to to give the length designator, the model designator, and the model year designator.

Removal of the upper portion of the hull of a c. 1970 OUTRAGE 19 boat has been done before, and results in a very odd-looking craft that is generally called a "Low-profile" or a "Topless." Personally, I don't like the outcome of that modification. Hulls torn apart like that are usually found in Louisiana and Texas in a Bayou or other shallow coastal water. I cannot imagine what you would do a with low-profile c.1970 OUTRAGE in Maine. Maybe you are going to tend lobster pots.

I can hardly believe this, but I think Boston Whaler actually made a Low-Profile version themselves in c.1976. You can see two illustrations in the CETACEA collection at

https://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetac ... age37.html

Q4: has this been done before by anyone reading this post?

I am sure it has been done before, but mostly by hard-living, heavy-drinking, chronic smokers in Texas and Louisiana. They also exhibited a tendency toward big-risk-taking. Some used to hang out on the forum, but I think these days they are all gone--died too young.

[ALAN G]

Sunny: I have a 1973 Outrage 19, and my son owned a 1974 Revenge 19. We removed the superstructure and reinstalled as part of a restoration. I believe both configurations are identical even though the "superstructure" of those models is different....ie the Outrage has just the gunwales on both sides leading up to a small deck with anchor locker while the Revenge has both gunwale sides leading up to an enclosed deck with full windshield. The superstructure is fastened to the hull with rivets and unless someone has removed the superstructure previously, it should have no sealant or adhesive on the contact surfaces. Once you remove the rub rail and the white plastic extrusion that the vinyl rub rail fits into, you will be seeing the rivets. (the plastic extrusion is also riveted to the boat, requiring these rivets be drilled to remove the plastic extrusion) The superstructure has a vertical flange that covers the side of the hull about 1 1/2" to 2" high. This is normally covered by the rub rail and plastic extrusion, so you don't see it. You need to drill out all these rivets holding the superstructure in place in order to remove the superstructure. The rivets are aluminum so drilling the heads off from the outside is very easy. You can try to remove the rivet remnants, but this is very difficult and unnecessary since you will be drilling new holes if you are going to remount the superstructure and/or rub rail. It is common to just punch in the rivet remainders into the foam of the hull, and fill the holes with your favorite patching compound (I like WEST epoxy with thickener to make a peanut butter consistency mixture, but if you like other products like Marine Tex, that works too.) Looking from the inside, you may see a mahogany 1" x 1" piece of wood that is screwed into the hull. That wood does not need to be removed from the hull in order to lift the superstructure. I theorize the main reason for its existence is to guide the superstructure gunwales into position for riveting during the manufacturing process. Only one thing to watch for during reassembly of superstructure and/or rub rail extrusion: Mark on the hull the locations of all the patched holes and any new rivets you put in to hold the superstructure. When installing the plastic extrusion, you will not be able to see where these patched holes or rivets are, so you want to know you are drilling into areas clear of these for your new rivets.
Al

[ALAN G]

By the way, I forgot to answer your question on the bolts in the splashwell: They are a mystery to me. The splashwell and stern area should have no bolts in it on the sides or bottoms. They must have been put there to hold something down by a previous owner. The only thing in the fishwell are two eyelets for holding a shock cord for securing the teak fishwell cover.
Al

[Sunnybreeze]

Thanks for the reply from everyone. Yep, I'm stupid. Its a 1974 21' outrage. I felt the upper Superstructure was riveted in place but not sure. Yes, it is coming off and going back on after being worked over and epoxy painted.

The bolts are still a mystery to me but hope to be able to look back when I remove the hatch for the gas tank and see what is going on. I'm sure the foam is wet so I expect to have to open up a lot of the cockpit deck to remove foam and re-foam. I have a lot of glasswork in front of me. This is my 3rd whaler rebuild and I just love them. I just ordered a brand new Suzuki 175hp 4 stroke and have been told I may see it in the spring of 2023.

Steve in Maine

[ALAN G]

Steve, one more hint to make your job less risky. When the superstructure is removed, it is very flimsy because the gunwales are only tied in at the forward sides where the small deck is. To provide better stability and avoid cracking the superstructure when lifting, we put a 2x4 across the two stern cleats and tied each end to the cleats. This makes the superstructure a more rigid assembly when lifting. With such a rig, it is possible to lift the superstructure by three lifting lines, tied together to form a single point lift....one line on bow cleat, one on each stern cleat. If you have helpers, the superstructure is easily lifted by 4 people and set aside on saw horses. You can do it with 3, but the whole thing is more cumbersome than heavy. Good luck!
Al

[Jefecinco]

What happens to the foam flotation when the deck assembly is separated from the hull assembly? My understanding is that the foam is injected under high pressure after the deck is attached to the hull.

Would the operation not involve significant risk to the integrity of the flotation, not to mention the hull/deck/vessel integrity when the boat is reassembled?

This seems a very high risk operation for minimal potential reward.

[Sunnybreeze]

Butch,
You have a valid point but the 1972 through 1981 OUTRAGE hulls were different than the 13, 16, and 19-foot boats. The 21 had a superstructure design that riveted to the Main Hull. All the flotation foam was below the cockpit sole.

Once the superstructure is removed and the [removable deck section] for the [fuel tank cavity is removed,] I have no [doubt] the foam will be wet. I will be removing the [cockpit deck] in various locations to remove the [wet] foam, molding new [cockpit deck] sections to tab back in, and re-foaming the bad areas.

Yeah, I will be looking at a lot of work. I have done it before so know what is involved.

In the future I will start a blog about the project.

Steve in Maine

[Sunnybreeze]

Fig. 1. A boat with a covering of snow.

snow.jpg (29.28 KiB) Viewed 1439 times

Fig. 2. Boat with covering of snow.

snowSmall.jpg (6.59 KiB) Viewed 1439 times

[Sunnybreeze]

Figure 3 shows a bolt in the [floor] of the engine splash well. I can reach down and feel a bracket inside, which may be a superstructure hold down during bonding.

Fig. 3. View of engine splash well bolt.

IMG_1790.JPG (24.71 KiB) Viewed 1446 times

[jimh]

In my opinion, Figure 3 shows a bolt that is probably a non-factory modification to the hull.