Rigging 13-footer Center Console

Repair or modification of Boston Whaler boats, their engines, trailers, and gear
itchy fiberglass
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Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2022 9:21 am

Rigging 13-footer Center Console

Postby itchy fiberglass » Sun Apr 24, 2022 9:28 am

I am hoping to convert a 13-footer into a center console this spring to make it much more comfortable for my now adult sized body I have seen some pretty cool projects, so far but I have two main questions I could use some help on.

Q1: how is the rigging for electrical, throttle, and steering lines from the center console to the to engine accomplished?

I reason some people are creating a tunnel under the deck.

Q2: what is the BEST method to fasten the center console to the deck?

Q3: is the BEST method to glue and screw-in a foundation, and then bolt the console to the foundation?

Q4: is the BEST method to laminate the console to the deck?

ASIDE: Hey all, glad to find this forum.

Oldslowandugly
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Re: 13 foot center console conversion (rigging questions)

Postby Oldslowandugly » Sun Apr 24, 2022 10:11 am

I was in a similar situation with my 15 footer. I fastened a mahogany frame to the deck with screws and adhesives, making sure to waterproof and seal the screw holes.

Then I bolted a TODD center console to the frame.

The console can be removed by just unbolting it [from the frame].

Rigging cables and wiring are concealed under a length of extruded aluminum door threshold. The wiring cover is not in the way of my feet when at the console. At first I was annoyed by it then I got accustomed and I don't even notice it now.

Also, I used a cooler seat with a tilting seat back.
Last edited by Oldslowandugly on Sun Apr 24, 2022 4:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Oldslowandugly
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Re: 13 foot center console conversion (rigging questions)

Postby Oldslowandugly » Sun Apr 24, 2022 11:14 am

P7240459_01.JPG
Fig. 1. Mahogany frame for mounting center console. The frame is fastened to the deck with screws and adhesive.
P7240459_01.JPG (101.09 KiB) Viewed 1589 times

The cooler seat was attached the same way. That way I can remove either without disturbing the fiberglass deck. The mahogany wood bench seen in Figure 1 can be raised to access a storage compartment. I store two 6-gallon portable gasoline fuel tanks under it. I have two swivel seats mounted on it now.

P8230503_01.JPG
Fig. 2. The console mounted.
P8230503_01.JPG (96.33 KiB) Viewed 1589 times

Although not seen in Figure 2, the console is attached to the frame with double-ended stainless steel screws or "studs." One end is threaded for self-tapping into wood; the other end is threaded as a machine screw. Also not seen in Figure 2 are the stainless nuts and fender washers that are used on the machine screw studs to secure the console to the wooden frame.

P6130041.JPG
Fig. 3. Aluminum threshold used to protect wiring.
P6130041.JPG (126.79 KiB) Viewed 1589 times

The aluminum door threshold is meant to be stepped on and is strong. In Figure 3 the plywood base attached to the deck for the cooler seat to bolt to is partially visible.
Last edited by Oldslowandugly on Sun Apr 24, 2022 3:42 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Oldslowandugly
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Location: Queens NY

Re: 13 foot center console conversion (rigging questions)

Postby Oldslowandugly » Sun Apr 24, 2022 11:26 am

P7070100.JPG
Figure 4. The finished boat converted to a center console.
P7070100.JPG (106.34 KiB) Viewed 1587 times

The 13 footer is smaller but a small console like the TODD console seen in Figure 4 should fit well.

My biggest complaint about Boston Whaler boats is that the factory seating and console waste too much space.

The folding bench stores the gasoline fuel tanks and provides for more seating at the stern.

I also added a swivel seat forward of the console.

A battery and flares are stored underneath the folding mount. I maximized the available space as much as I could.

The deck of my boat was in bad condition, so I did not want to make a tunnel. In fig 3 you can see that the area in the center of the cooler seat mount is exposed but safe under the seat. The door threshold is only used between the seat and console, and the seat and rear bench. That protects the cables and wiring from clumsy feet. The PCV pipe has my wiring inside for extra protection. I have had to make wiring changes and having it accessible under the aluminum cover made that task easy.
Last edited by Oldslowandugly on Sun Apr 24, 2022 4:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

itchy fiberglass
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Re: 13 foot center console conversion (rigging questions)

Postby itchy fiberglass » Sun Apr 24, 2022 1:03 pm

The converted 13-footer [inspires awe.]

Your information is good.

I considered making an above-deck rigging tunnel like your did; I will have to just accept the annoyance of it being between my feet at the helm. I think that would be the much easier option as opposed to somehow installing an actual tunnel under the deck.

On my boat the deck is in great condition; I don't want tear up the deck and patch up a section of the deck.

A foundation frame for a console seems to be the way to go.

The 13-footer deck has a center valley. I will need to make a perfect template.

jimh
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Re: Rigging 13-footer Center Console

Postby jimh » Sun Apr 24, 2022 1:43 pm

To create a below deck rigging tunnel on a 13-footer, the method used on the 15-footer might be possible.

On the 15-foot hull, one very crafty fabricator (Steve F or BACKLASH) was able to drill a hole under the deck between the stern sump and the new console location. The hole was drilled using sets of drill extensions on a hole saw. The engine splash well on the 15-footer is a sink-type center-only splash well. There was a drain hole in the transom on centerline. The extension bit was passed through this drain hole. The hole saw attached to the extension bit. The drill motor connected to the extension bit behind the transom. With very precise drilling, a new rigging tunnel was created.

In a somewhat terse form, BACKLASH described it:
BACKLASH wrote:The foam is very dense and you must bore a hole thru it to make room for the conduit. I used a plumbers bit (2-9/16" dia.), much like a Forstner bit, to drill out the foam. After every six inches or so of headway, a shop vac was used to remove the foam pieces/chunks that the bit removed.

If you stick a long wooden dowel rod thru your transom drain (from the outside) it will almost perfectly center itself on the forward wall of the sump wall. This is the secret to how the hole is drilled through the foam using 18-inch drill bit extensions. The actual electric drill remains outside the transom for the whole procedure.


In a longer version, Steve wrote:
I have installed a center console on my old SUPER SPORT 15 back in 1990. To run the cables to the console I drilled, I believe, a 3-inch diameter hole from the small bilge well under the floor to the console position. I then inserted a piece of 2-1/2-inch diameter Carlon(electrical conduit) flexible plastic tubing thru this hole, cut off flush at both ends and epoxied it in place. This is not a job for the timid.

I used a plumber's drill bit and several 12-inch or 18-inch extensions. I started by inserting an extension through the drain hole and into the bilge area and then installed the bit. The drain hole will give you a direct shot to the console location.

After cutting through the laminate of the bilge well, you will hit foam. The foam must be cleared out every 4 to 6-inches using a shop vacuum. As you reach the end of one extension, add another; repeat as needed.

While drilling I kept the bit scraping the underside of the floor. Once you have the approximate length to the console location, drill another hole from under the console angled to intercept the new tunnel. You may have to do some cleaning out of the foam to install the Carlon section.

This worked out well for me. All of the cables, steering, fuel, electrical, etc., fit inside the tubing.

The only other alternative is to cut out a section of floor which I didn't want to do.


If the requisite drain hole were not already in the transom, you could just make one for the purpose of drilling the center console rigging tunnel, and then perhaps repair the hole when done.

jimh
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Re: Rigging 13-footer Center Console

Postby jimh » Sun Apr 24, 2022 2:01 pm

On Boston Whaler boats with a center console, there is some embedded reinforcement at the center console location.

Check the wood locating diagram for the 13-foot hull to verify there will be reinforcement wood under the deck at the location chosen for the center console.

The OEM method to secure the center console to the deck can be seen in the illustration below:

Image
Fig. 5. The fastening of a center console to the deck can be seen in this modification, in which the console height has been raised by inserting a riser between the deck and bottom of the console. The console is secured to the riser in the same manner as it was to the deck: an aluminum L-channel is used. The console is bolted to the L-channel, and the L-channel is fastened to the deck with wood screws. A mahogany trim piece dresses up the hardware.

If looking closely at Figure 5, you can see the old holes in the deck where the wood screws held the L-Channel in place, before the modification to add the riser. The wood time was OEM, as far as I know, but the bright varnish finish is optional, but a nice touch for enthusiasts that give special attention to form and appearance.

jimh
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Re: Rigging 13-footer Center Console

Postby jimh » Sun Apr 24, 2022 2:07 pm

ASIDE:

itchy fiberglass wrote:ASIDE: Hey all, glad to find this forum.
Welcome to the continuousWave form on Boston Whaler boats. We are in our 22nd year. See:

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itchy fiberglass
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Re: Rigging 13-footer Center Console

Postby itchy fiberglass » Mon Apr 25, 2022 10:09 am

admirable great info! I will have some thinking to do.

I suppose lastly, the interior/ exterior gel coat is in decent condition but certainly shows it age... lots of old mount holes, some crazing and chips ect...

My plan was to fill and fair out everything. I have been thinking of prepping the entire hull inside and out for paint. Not sure on the color but maybe something close to the original gel coat to keep the classic appearance. Is there anything special I look out for if I go this route? From previous paint jobs I know that 90% of the work is all prep!

Oldslowandugly
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Re: Rigging 13-footer Center Console

Postby Oldslowandugly » Thu Apr 28, 2022 3:17 pm

I painted mine because it was so bad. It is a never-ending chore. After filling in all the holes I did a base coat of Interlux Epoxy two part primer. Then I painted over that with Interlux Interthane Plus, a two part Urethane. You would think that would be indestructible. It was not. It peeled, it cracked, it suffered the same fate as any paint but just took longer. Now I use regular Interlux Brightside Polyurethane paint. It lasts almost as long as the expensive paint, costs a LOT less, is much more user-friendly, and looks great again after a quick single coat touch-up job. I find it needs a re-coat about every two or three years. This is after sitting at a slip for 6 months is salt water with a lot of fishing abuse and gore. I add the Interlux no-skid compound to the paint for wherever I walk. It makes the decks very slip resistant. The only bright side is that a small Whaler is pretty easy to paint. I can do a complete re-coat in a single day.