For a 1963 13-footer, where are the transom eyes located?
My hull does not have transom eyes installed.
When I got the boat I filled holes somewhat outboard, between the corner and the handhold pocket.
Most pictures I see have the transom eyes located farther inboard, nearer the transom [notch].
I want to confirm a factory location that may be reinforced for the transom eyes and avoid a problematic location based on old holes..
Thank you.
Jason
1963 13-footer Transom Eye Location
Re: 1963 13-footer Transom Eye Location
Plumster wrote:For a 1963 13-footer, where are the transom eyes located?
Fig. 1. An old 13-footer transom with transom eyes.
Re: 1963 13-footer Transom Eye Location
[The location of the transom lifting eyes seen in Figure 1 is] the location I see most frequently. On my boat there were no prior holes there (filled or otherwise).
Would stern eyes have been omitted for certain trim levels?
Also, looking at the wood reinforcement drawing in the reference section, this location--apparently the OEM location--falls outside the wood reinforcing, as does by boat's location nearer the corner.
Would you expect similar strength between the two locations?
Knowing nothing else, I would guess that the location nearer the corner would be marginally stronger just due to the geometry.
Basically trying to decide if I need to close out my outside holes and re-drill inboard. If it’s just adherence to the stock location and personal preference, rather than a strength concern, I guess that’s what I’m looking for guidance on.
I appreciate all the expertise on this site!
Plumster
Would stern eyes have been omitted for certain trim levels?
Also, looking at the wood reinforcement drawing in the reference section, this location--apparently the OEM location--falls outside the wood reinforcing, as does by boat's location nearer the corner.
Would you expect similar strength between the two locations?
Knowing nothing else, I would guess that the location nearer the corner would be marginally stronger just due to the geometry.
Basically trying to decide if I need to close out my outside holes and re-drill inboard. If it’s just adherence to the stock location and personal preference, rather than a strength concern, I guess that’s what I’m looking for guidance on.
I appreciate all the expertise on this site!
Plumster
Re: 1963 13-footer Transom Eye Location
As far as I know, the boat seen in Figure 1 was not modified from stock, other than being re-painted in a camouflage scheme to allow use in shooting water foul.
Since that location corresponds well with others you have seen, I would infer it was the stock location.
Another old 13-footer--with blue interior gel coat-- is seen in CETACEA at Page 82:
https://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetac ... age82.html
You can clearly see the location of the transom eyes in this photograph from that page:
Fig. 2. An old 13-footer used in Alaska commercial fishing and abandoned at Dutch Harbor.
Note that a stronger fitting has been through-bolted to the engine splashwell bulkhead,
which I presume was probably used for lifting and moving the boat between deck and ocean.
Since that location corresponds well with others you have seen, I would infer it was the stock location.
Another old 13-footer--with blue interior gel coat-- is seen in CETACEA at Page 82:
https://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetac ... age82.html
You can clearly see the location of the transom eyes in this photograph from that page:
Fig. 2. An old 13-footer used in Alaska commercial fishing and abandoned at Dutch Harbor.
Note that a stronger fitting has been through-bolted to the engine splashwell bulkhead,
which I presume was probably used for lifting and moving the boat between deck and ocean.
Re: 1963 13-footer Transom Eye Location
In a 1963 catalogue, the 13 STANDARD (tiller-steering) model does not mention having stern towing eyes. The 13 SPORT (remote steering) model includes "stern towing eyes for water skiing" as standard equipment, along with a console, steering wheel, steering system, and so on.Plumster wrote:Would stern eyes have been omitted for certain trim levels?
One way to determine the model is the location of the aft thwart seat. On the STANDARD it was close to the engine so tiller steering could be used. On a SPORT both thwart seats were moved forward one foot; this allowed the engine fuel tank to sit behind the aft thwart seat. And another clue for recognition of a SPORT model would be, of course, all the wire rope and pulley steering hardware--or the extra holes left if that gear was removed.
Re: 1963 13-footer Transom Eye Location
Thanks Jim, it appears that perhaps my hull was originally a tiller model, since I have no [OEM] towing eyes. I'm not aware of the full history of my boat. I picked up this boat as a project boat with an non-OEM side console interior, and i have since acquired a slightly newer (c.1970) original mahogany interior with the side rails and seat backrest, which I will be putting in.
Since I'm not going for a correct restoration and the transom appears to be of the same construction between the two locations, I guess I'm not seeing a big reason to drill more holes to move them the one foot or so to the OEM locations. I had have some gel coat chipping. I would like to avoid further gel coat repairs. I already have the Teleflex mechanical steering helm. I will likely need the Teleflex standoff. It looks like the standoff will be located near the OEM position for the towing eyes. Maybe my alternate location gives a bit more room for where the standoff bracket can be mounted.
Thanks again for all the information, which is much appreciated.
Jason
Since I'm not going for a correct restoration and the transom appears to be of the same construction between the two locations, I guess I'm not seeing a big reason to drill more holes to move them the one foot or so to the OEM locations. I had have some gel coat chipping. I would like to avoid further gel coat repairs. I already have the Teleflex mechanical steering helm. I will likely need the Teleflex standoff. It looks like the standoff will be located near the OEM position for the towing eyes. Maybe my alternate location gives a bit more room for where the standoff bracket can be mounted.
Thanks again for all the information, which is much appreciated.
Jason
Re: Aft Thwart Seat
ASIDE:
By the way, in typical Boston Whaler fashion to make building the boat simpler, I presume that the thwart seat hold down wooden boards (or riser boards) were not changed at all between STANDARD and SPORT models. They just moved the two seats in tandem about a foot forward for the SPORT model. That put the console and helm more forward, as the seat risers were the same on either model.
If your boat was a STANDARD, you should give an eye to where the thwart seats will be located. You probably want to move the riser boards forward about a foot.
RAISING AFT THWART SEAT
Also, at some point I believe that there was a change in the way the aft thwart seat and riser boards were configured. The aft thwart seat board originally was sitting on the molded slip in the cockpit walls. Later the aft thwart seat board was made a few inches longer, and the board was fastened to the top of the riser boards. This raised the height of the aft thwart seat several inches. Most people thought the aft thwart seat was always a bit too low for comfort.
If the aft thwart seat board you have is not long enough to be fitted atop the riser, you could attach a small board (a "cleat") on the riser and fasten the thwart seat seat to the cleat boards on each end.
By the way, in typical Boston Whaler fashion to make building the boat simpler, I presume that the thwart seat hold down wooden boards (or riser boards) were not changed at all between STANDARD and SPORT models. They just moved the two seats in tandem about a foot forward for the SPORT model. That put the console and helm more forward, as the seat risers were the same on either model.
If your boat was a STANDARD, you should give an eye to where the thwart seats will be located. You probably want to move the riser boards forward about a foot.
RAISING AFT THWART SEAT
Also, at some point I believe that there was a change in the way the aft thwart seat and riser boards were configured. The aft thwart seat board originally was sitting on the molded slip in the cockpit walls. Later the aft thwart seat board was made a few inches longer, and the board was fastened to the top of the riser boards. This raised the height of the aft thwart seat several inches. Most people thought the aft thwart seat was always a bit too low for comfort.
If the aft thwart seat board you have is not long enough to be fitted atop the riser, you could attach a small board (a "cleat") on the riser and fasten the thwart seat seat to the cleat boards on each end.
Re: 1963 13-footer Transom Eye Location
Good tips, much appreciated. I’m near the end of my fairing process and starting interior paint. I will have more-or-less a blank slate when I go to install the interior. I did mock up the c.1970 interior when I brought it home, and I assume it may be already correct for raising the thwart seat as you mention, coming from a newer boat.
The mahogany has been sanded and sealed for varnish. Once my hull paint is done, will do varnish the [wood and get] ready to locate the wood the boat. I will be check my references for location, and move the seat risers forward (if indeed this was a tiller boat) to the SPORT model location. Setting that fixes the location of everything else, so once that’s set, I should be good to go farther.
Plumster.
The mahogany has been sanded and sealed for varnish. Once my hull paint is done, will do varnish the [wood and get] ready to locate the wood the boat. I will be check my references for location, and move the seat risers forward (if indeed this was a tiller boat) to the SPORT model location. Setting that fixes the location of everything else, so once that’s set, I should be good to go farther.
Plumster.