1984 REVENGE 22 CUDDY Transom Drain
Posted: Thu May 26, 2022 10:17 am
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dave3825us wrote:I have a 1984 REVENGE 22 CUDDY...Is the drain tube illustrated below aftermarket or original?
jimh wrote:How far water will rise in the starboard aft cockpit sump when the through-hull drain is not plugged will depend on the weight on the boat and its distribution. I suspect that at the time of the original design and production of the 22-foot hull, rigging with a single outboard engine of that era would not have caused the starboard aft cockpit sump to habitually overflow when the boat was at rest in static trim. Perhaps if the engine was unusually heavy, there was a large cooler in the stern, and three or four adults gathered in the stern, then the water line would rise to the point where the aft cockpit sum would overflow and begin to fill the rigging tunnel with water, perhaps eventually rising high enough to also overflow and fill the fuel tank cavity in extreme cases.
For a c.1984 boat we are talking about a boat that is 38-years-old, and the hull may have gained weight over the years. Also, boats like a REVENGE or a CUDDY model have more weight forward, which often tends to reduce draft at the stern somewhat. There are a lot of variables.
I had a REVENGE 20 rigged with twin engines on ten-inch setback brackets--so a substantial engine weight. I could leave the aft starboard sump drain open and the seawater would only rise to about two inches in the sump--even while you and another person were standing there to look at how high the water would rise.
On my present boat, a REVENGE 22 W-T Whaler Drive, I usually keep the aft starboard cockpit sump plugged when the boat is in the water, just to keep the sump dry. I generally remove the plug if the boat is going to sit outdoors on the trailer for a long time unattended. That keeps the sump pump from discharging the boat battery if there is a lot of rain.
Vance's Revenge wrote:My 1980 Revenge 22 had a black ball scupper at both the transom drain and the transom side of the tube between the below deck fish well and deep motor well. They were original from the factory but no longer available so I replaced the one on my transom with a T-H Marine Flow Max Ball Scupper.
Vance's Revenge wrote:The transom on the 22 Revenge and Outrage hull's are very low and water easily washes over the transom into the deep motor well. If there is not a ball scupper in the transom drain there is no way for the water to escape the motor well unless you were to install a bilge pump. Apparently the factory chose the ball scupper as a check valve to allow the deep motor well to drain.
Vance's Revenge wrote:Due to additional drainage I have installed. I now have 6 of the T-H Marine Ball Scuppers on my Revenge 22
Vance's Revenge wrote:If you do need to change your brass drain tubes, I recommend you replace them with fiberglass tubes so you never have to change them again.
They are both 1" I.D. tubes.
.I just removed the transom drain tube and it was mostly gone. Boat was sitting wrapped for last 2 years and transom is not dripping water now that the drain was removed. It is slightly damp
I like the idea of the 2 additional scuppers above the water line thru the transom. I have taken waves over and think I will add two there also. I never ran the boat without that plug in and when I get her in the water, I am going to pull the plug and see where she sits and how high the water level is without the drain plug. Right now there's a pump back there. I always trailered but now we secured a slip in our towns marina.
I am pulling the deck and going to inspect the tank. While I am in there I want to add a drain from fuel cavity to fish well and leave it plugged in fish well and unplug if I suspect water in the tank cavity.
I have read foam / no foam but that spot always fills with water that never drains anything below the upper drain that's there. Right now I am leaning towards installing a fiberglass tube there and foaming the tank. I do want to ask, are those fiberglass tubes smooth on the inside to work good with 1 inch plugs? And is todays foam better than the foam that was available a few years ago?
Vance's Revenge wrote:After 2 years I'm surprised the transom is still damp unless the wrap leaked water into your motor well. The tube in my transom drain was so bad it came out in about 3 pieces. I was fortunate that my boat was strictly used in salt water so the wood in the transom was still good.
Vance's Revenge wrote:If all of your tubes are the same age as your transom drain tube this is an indicator that most, if not all will need replacement.
If your boat has a tube between the motor well and the fish well it will most likely look similar to your transom tube. It is incredibly important to inspect that tube because the motor well during operation usually has water in the bottom of it which feeds into that tube. If the tube leaks the water goes directly into the foam core. The problem with changing that tube is access at the bottom of the motor well. That in particular is when I decided to switch from brass tube material to fiberglass. 1. I found the Fiberglas tube is much easier to install. 2. It will never corrode and need to be replaced again.
I am pulling the deck and going to inspect the tank. While I am in there I want to add a drain from fuel tank cavity to fish well and leave it plugged in fish well and unplug if I suspect water in the tank cavity.
I have read foam-no-foam but that spot always fills with water that never drains anything below the upper drain that's there. Right now I am leaning towards installing a fiberglass tube there and foaming the tank. I do want to ask, are those fiberglass tubes smooth on the inside to work good with 1 inch plugs? And is todays foam better than the foam that was available a few years ago?
Vance's Revenge wrote:Foam or No Foam:
As far as foam or no foam around your tank. The original design of our boats was to direct water that accesses below deck from at least four access points to the fuel tank cavity as a center piece. Because I decided not to foam in my new fuel tank, I spent a tremendous amount of time, money and effort to prevent water from accessing below deck. I was successful but if I were to do it again I would not fight the original design and foam in the tank. But, I would fix the problem of the fuel tank corroding by installing a thin layer of fiberglass over the foam and fuel tank; but below the fuel tank drain tube that drains into the starboard rigging tunnel. I have now seen pictures of this being done and water that is directed to the fuel tank cavity will still drain through and back to your starboard rigging tunnel as designed; but cannot access your foam or tank.
Vance's Revenge wrote:Hopefully your boat has the upgraded 2 piece cover over your fuel tank so you do not have to remove both cabinets under your dash.
Vance's Revenge wrote:If you have not seen this thread it will be worthwhile to read in its entirety. It has quite a few helpful pictures and explains a lot of the process you are about to begin:
https://continuouswave.com/forum/viewto ... f=6&t=6767