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Q1: what is the life expectancy of the drain tubes shown in Figure 1 and Figure 2?

Q2: is there a way to replace just the O-ring and add 3M4200 adhesive to the drain tubes seen in Figure 1 and Figure 2?

I appreciate your experience and knowledge.

BACKSTORY
I planed on replacing all the [brass] through-hull [drain] tubes on my REVENGE 22, but after [replacing] nine brass drain tubes--which took a long time--I checked the three [remaining unchanged through-hul brass drain tubes] in the cabin. In those three drains I think the brass still looks okay and the O-rings look bad. The space [in the cabin] is too narrow to pull out the old O-rings out and install new ones.

I am tired and there are still many things to do on my REVENGE 22 before I can get it into the water, and therefore I pause and think.

Based on the bottom paint seen in Figure 1, the two drain outlets shown are below the water line. Because these drain outlets will always be immersed in water, their integrity is essential to prevent ingress of water into the interior foam of the Unibond hull.

The location of the drain seen in Figure 2 is not clearly shown, but it also appears to be in an area with bottom paint. That means its is also an important drain to maintain water-tight integrity.

If the condition of the O-ring is "bad", apply some sealant around the drain opening.

Using a very strong marine adhesive like 3M4200 as a sealant is usually not the best choice due to its strong adhesive property. On the other hand, because the drains will be in the water all the time and have a flow of water over them when the boat is underway, using 3M4200 may be justified in this application.

I don't think readers can really assess the integrity of the drains from your photographs. You are in a much better position to make that judgement yourself.

I have replaced all brass drains with fiberglass tubes in order to create peace of mind.

I run a bead of Life Caulk to seal the flared tube to the fiberglass ensuring a seal on all the tubes till they can be replaced. I would do that to allow you to use the boat this season. Replace the tubes and O rings in the winter/spring.

Also it is important to use sealant (not adhesive) in every screw hole.

Phil T wrote:I run a bead of Life Caulk to seal the flared tube to the fiberglass ensuring a seal on all the tubes till they can be replaced. I would do that to allow you to use the boat this season. Replace the tubes and O rings in the winter/spring.

Also it is important to use sealant (not adhesive) in every screw hole.

I've seen the brass tubes look decent on the flared end, yet completely corroded out in the center. Inspection wtih a flashlight is the only good way to inspect them. Ideally a bore scope, but doubt many people have those.

D-