CONTINUOUSWAVE

I've owned a 1966 13-footer 13 for the 18 months, and I have fallen in love with the boat. So much so, that a few months back, I purchased a 1980 13-footer with Yamaha 40-HP two-stroke-power-cycle engine a really great price locally in Virginia. I'm going to restore the boat to create a saltwater fishing setup. I need suggestions, advice, and opinions on the best way to restore this Boston Whaler boat.

Due to the water line and my ability to lift the stern up slightly, I believe this 1980 13-footer hasn't accumulated too much water over the years, and it should be water worthy

Here are my goals and questions for the restoration:

I want to make the boat interior functionality sound, without going overboard on a proper restoration. As an example, I don't mind the crazing on the deck.

Q1: should I paint the 1980 13-footer?

Q2: would it make sense to paint the 1980 13-footer?

Q3: what are the options for painting the boat?

I've heard of a material like RhinoLiner for interiors that while not sexy is bulletproof, strong, will last substantially longer than paint.

I want to restore the hull and hull bottom properly so there is no water in the hull for the future. I imagine the hull and hull bottom are the areas of the boat that is going to need the most work, and also where the most water will seep in.

Q4: what advice would you have for someone looking to create the longest-lasting bottom job?

Without sanding I won't know [the condition of the hull bottom[ for sure, but there appears to be very little fiberglass damage, if any, anywhere on the bottom of the boat. It's part of the reason I purchased the vessel. I will be storing the boat on trailer, in my garage, not in the water.

I also want to install a trolling motor on the front. I have a Minn Kota quick-release bracket iPilot 55-lbs-thrust motor.

Q5: will the front stepping area of the 1980 13-footer be strong enough to hold an iPilot 55-lbs-thrust trolling motor?

Q6: what can I do to further solidify the front stepping area of the 1980 13-footer?

Q7: what are the ways I could install a 55-lbs-thrust Minn Kota iPilot trolling motor so that the hull stays structurally sound over time with the weight of the trolling motor on it?

Q8: does the hull of a 1980 13-footer need reinforcing in the front stepping area before a trolling motor can be installed?

I want the hull to have balance weight for easy on plane. There is a large under-seat fuel tank that came with the boat.

Q9: if the 1980 13-footer has two batteries in stern, one for starting the engine and the other for the trolling motor and electronics, would it make sense to move the fuel tank underneath the first bench closest to the bow?

Q10: is cleaning the existing fuel tank recommended so that a new fuel tank is not necessary?

I want to restore the Norman pin and other metal components.

Q11: what are the most effective methods that have been found by others to restore a Norman pin and other metal components?

Q12: what should be done to the back brackets to give then sufficient structural integrity to allow for towing a tube?


I bought two self-leveling trim tabs.

Q13: should self-leveling trim tabs be installed on a 1980 13-footer?

Q14: is installation of self-leveling trim tabs excessive for a 1980 13-footer?

I want to limit any possible water seepage into the hull.

Q15: for a rookie restorer, what are the areas and what are the tactics to use that will prevent water seepage into the hull and improve the long-term health of the hull?'

I plan to make sure the rub rail is sealed and to caulk on areas where pins go in the boat.


I want to make the boat dog ready, if there's even such a thing. I'm planning to get a dog, one that loves the water, and will be trained to join me on the boat, late in 2023.

Q16: what should be done and what should be added to make a 1980 13-footer ready for a dog?

You can see the boat at this URL

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ET5ysDgzgmAdUZp0IbP9htSfdfc4DL5T2IeqnPPfNcE/edit?usp=sharing

Please don't feel the need to respond to every question or idea, only the ones you feel compelled to answer and arre qualified to provide your personal perspective. I will greatly appreciate help from the community.


If there's anything you think generally speaking I am missing, that I should think about as I get ready to start on this project in the spring, please let me know. Look forward to soaking up the experience from others as best as I can, and teaching myself a thing or two in the process.

--Ben

Right off- skip Rhinoliner or that type of covering. Designed for trucks, not fiberglass boats.

Remove the interior

Scrub the boat by hand, NO PRESSURE WASHER. Start with Simple Green.

Strip the bottom paint.
Strip and re-varnish interior.

Detail the gelcoat (heavy duty compound then Finessit II) the sides, transom and entire interior. This will take you 8-10 hours if you do it correctly.

Do not paint, cover or do anything to the gelcoat.

Replace any drain tubes.

Reinstall interior with the seats on top of the side cleats, engine, rigging and go!

Apply bottom paint to real waterline.

Replace decals, capacity plate, HIN plate and reg # (http://www.magicbrushsigns.com)

This is just off the top of my head.

There are many how-to threads on installing a trolling motor. Search the site.

Do not install tabs until you outfit and run the boat for a season. Typically they are not beneficial to hull this small.

Phil T wrote:Do not install tabs till you outfit and run the boat for a season. Typically they are not beneficial to hull this small.

Thanks for all the good advice. I'll avoid the trim tabs.

Q17: is professional soda blasting for removal of paint on a hull a good idea?

You can go that way.

With a 13', you can flip the hull and use a non-toxic stripper like Peel-Away.

Your choice.

sk3nelson wrote:Q1: should I paint the 1980 13-footer?

Q2: would it make sense to paint the 1980 13-footer?

Q3: what are the options for painting the boat?

Generally a proper restoration of a c.1980 boat would be to maintain the original gel coat finish as much as possible. Painting over the gel coat is only a last resort. The present condition of the gel coat on the boat will determine if it is possible to restore the finish or if painting will be the most effective approach. Looking at a few photos of the boat under discussion, I don't think it should be painted.

sk3nelson wrote:Q5: will the front stepping area of the 1980 13-footer be strong enough to hold an iPilot 55-lbs-thrust trolling motor?

Yes

sk3nelson wrote:Q6: what can I do to further solidify the front stepping area of the 1980 13-footer?

Nothing needed

sk3nelson wrote:Q7: what are the ways I could install a 55-lbs-thrust Minn Kota iPilot trolling motor so that the hull stays structurally sound over time with the weight of the trolling motor on it?

Though-bolt the mounting plate and seal it to prevent ingress of water.

sk3nelson wrote:Q8: does the hull of a 1980 13-footer need reinforcing in the front stepping area before a trolling motor can be installed?

No.

sk3nelson wrote:Q9: if the 1980 13-footer has two batteries in stern, one for starting the engine and the other for the trolling motor and electronics, would it make sense to move the fuel tank underneath the first bench closest to the bow?

Yes

sk3nelson wrote:Q12: what should be done to the back brackets to give then sufficient structural integrity to allow for towing a tube?

Q18: what are the "back brackets"?

Q19: are you talking about the towing eyes on the transom?

sk3nelson wrote:Q15: …what are the areas and what are the tactics to use that will prevent water seepage into the hull…?

Any opening in the gel coat layer where something penetrates the hull must be sealed and be water tight. This is especially important on the hull running surfaces and any part of the boat that will continually immersed in water when the boat is in operation.

sk3nelson wrote:Q16: what should be done…to make a 1980 13-footer ready for a dog?

Trim the dog's toe nails. Be sure the dog's temperament is suitable for being on a boat and underway on a boat.