2008 Montauk 190 Moisture From Rub Rail Damage

Repair or modification of Boston Whaler boats, their engines, trailers, and gear
Wbswhaler
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2023 8:02 pm

2008 Montauk 190 Moisture From Rub Rail Damage

Postby Wbswhaler » Mon Sep 18, 2023 8:05 pm

I recently purchased a 2008 190 MONTAUK which has some moderate rub rail damage I am going to repair.

I’m in the process of weighing the boat (minus the trailer) to understand how much moisture [the hull] could possibly have--if any.

At a transfer staton scale the weight of the boat and trailer was 4,040-lbs with no gear other than two batteries. the Mercury 115-HP engine, and a half-full fuel tank.

Soon I will weigh the trailer with and without the boat on it, Then using 1,900-lbs for the hull, 440-lbs for the engine, 120-lbs for the batteries, and 6.1-lbs-per-gallon for gasonline, I will be able yo remove most inaccuracies of the scale.

Maximum boat speed is 10-MPH below expected when running in conditions--other than having bottom paint on the hull--similar to the performance test data [from Boston Whaler]

The static trim on the 2008 170 MONTAUK sits at the previously painted bottom-paint line. I don’t seem to find another 190 around to compare that to, as many have taken out for the season due to Hurricane that was predicted.

Q1. Am I right that if I remove any of the plastic through hull fittings or screws I will have access to the foam between the hull fiberglass and the gunwale or deck?

Q2. Would trapped water come flooding out, or just slowly seep?

Q3. When re attaching the new rub rail; if I use new holes that are off center to the existing ones, what material is on the inside of the hull glass beneath the top of the gunwakel? Is that area solid fiberglass or is there wood?

Q4. How much speed loss on a bare vs painted hull with maybe two coats?

Specifically in my case I am thinking about replacing the centerline bilge drain and live well through hull fittings. If the water came in via the rub rail screw holes that got reamed out or the small crack at the seam between side of hull and top of gunwale about 6-inches in one area where run rail is also damaged, will it drain out down at the bilge drain at centerline if I take out the pvc through hull/live well intake, or does it get entrained in the foam close to the point of entry?


Thanks in advance for any direction.

ASIDE: I know this topic is widely discussed, but have not been able to find the info regarding similar to what I am asking. If it exists somewhere on here please redirect me to that post.

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Phil T
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Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 6:08 pm
Location: Was Maine. Temporarily Kentucky

Re: 2008 Montauk 190 moisture from rub rail damage

Postby Phil T » Tue Sep 19, 2023 8:40 am

...to understand how much moisture [the hull] could possibly have--if any.


Why do you think you have any moisture, or enough to concern yourself to entertain scales and weighing the boat?

Where is the static water line on the exterior transom when the boat is at rest in relation to the splashwell? How far, in inches, above or below the drains?

Answer this first before doing anything.
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