The previous owner of this 2000 CONQUEST 23 must have been focused on simplicity. He removed two rather expensive options from the boat, the marine toilet with holding tank and pump out, and the electric windlass. I doubt that this fellow was the original purchaser of the boat: why would he pay for those two expensive options and then remove them?
About the only reason for removing them that comes to mind: because both of them are in the forward area or bow of the boat, they both were removed to remove weight from the bow to improve the trim on the boat.
The best solution in both cases for re-installation will be to restore the missing components with the same items as used originally by Boston Whaler. I say that because using the OEM marine toilet and electric windlass should allow you to use the original fastener locations. And, by the way, I assume those fastener holes have been sealed after the gear they were holding was removed.
To find out what brand of toilet and windlass were used, you MAY be able to get that information from Boston Whaler customer service. Or you may be able to get that information by calling a long-time Boston Whaler dealer. Two dealers that come to mind are Nauset Marine in Massachusetts, and Twin Cities Marine in Wisconsin, now operating under the name
The Boat House in Manitowoc. Contact their parts managers, and they may be able to help you identify the brand and perhaps even source the parts for you. Or you may be able to find another c.2000 CONQUEST 23 owner who has one or both of those options, and they may be able to get the manufacturer name and model from their boat's gear.
Regarding the windlass, you have two realms to work in: mechanical and electrical. For the mechanical, you really will be best to get the original brand, as it should permit you to re-use the fastener holes, which were certainly located in a reinforced area of the deck or pulpit. For the electrical, you will need to re-install proper electrical cables using the original path or rigging tunnel or chase that allowed those cable to be run from the winch to a very large battery bank. You will need to choose the conductor size to be properly suited for the LENGTH of the conductors and electrical current in AMPERES that the windless motor will draw from the battery.
Also, you will need to use a relay or solenoid to actually make the connection of the motor wiring to the battery, as the current involved will be much too large to be controlled though a switch. You will need to use a switch that controls the current to the solenoid or replay coil. Both the high-current path and the low-current path will need to be protected by an over-current device such as a circuit breaker or a fuse.
When and if you get around to this point of the refurbishment, I can offer more advice to you about how to select the proper conductor size.
You may also need to install a dedicated battery to run the windlass. I would not attempt to provide electrical power to the windlass from the engine starting battery. If you run the windlass and drain significant stored charge from the engine starting battery, the starting battery may not have enough stored electrical energy to crank over the engine. You could operate the windlass from a second battery, usually referred to as the HOUSE battery. In any case, you must provide some means for the propulsion engine battery-charging output to be connected to the second battery to recharge it. Again, more advice can be offered on this later.
Since you have just recently purchased this boat, I suggest you may want to give a bit more consideration to the plan to restore the windlass and the marine toilet with holding tank and pump out. You might want to contact the previous owner to ask why he removed them. He may have some interesting comments to explain his reasons.
Note: The devices that lifts an anchor is a "windlass." The term "windless" refers to lack of wind.