CONTINUOUSWAVE

I went to Wisconsin from Michigan to purchase a 1965 16-footer with a c.1980 Mercury 70-HP engine that runs great. The hull is solid and floats high and level. The fiberglass is in good shape. I caused some cracking in the deck gel coat from leaving the boat in the sun too much. The wood interior and the pulleys for the wire rope steering are disintegrating. The engine hydraulic lines leak. The navigation lamps do not work.

The fiberglass is in good shape, but the hull has some bumps in the gel coat at and below the waterline.

Q1: should I refinish the hull with new gel coat?

Q2: or, should I give up on the gel coat and just paint the hull?

I may re-power with a Yamaha 90-HP engine or maybe a Yamaha 70-HP engine.

Q3: what swim ladder can be mounted to the transom so youngsters can get aboard from the water?

The hull need a new wood interior. I plan to use teak and mahogany to build a CURRITUCK interior. I may add a bench or a platform in the stern

KevinArthur wrote:The fiberglass is in good shape, but the hull has some bumps in the gel coat at and below the waterline.

Q1: should I refinish the hull with new gel coat?

Q2: or, should I give up on the gel coat and just paint the hull?

If most of the original gel coat layer on the hull is "in good shape" then you should preserve that portion as much as possible. For the areas of the hull at the waterline or below the waterline which seem to need more aggressive repairs, you can make repairs but not worry as much about the cosmetic appearance, as those areas will not be visible when the boat is in the water. The only time you will see that part of the hull is when the boat is on a trailer.

After making repairs to the hull at the water line and below, you should fair and paint the hull bottom with a marine hull paint. If you use a modern epoxy type paint, you won't need to add another barrier coat. You can do all that in a white hue. There won't be any tragedy if the original hull white gel coat (whose exact hue and luster will depend entirely on how well you are able to restore it) and the new epoxy barrier coat white finish are not exactly matched.

KevinArthur wrote:Q3: what swim ladder can be mounted to the transom so youngsters can get aboard from the water?

Martin Marine Design makes one specifically for the older 16-foot Whalers. I installed one on my 1970 16-foot Whaler and enthusiastically recommend it and the company.

Thanks for the replies.

Thanks to the moderator who tweaked the format of my post—it was helpful.

Q4: what techniques are good to restore gel coat?

Q5: what products are good to restore gel coat?

KevinArthur wrote:Q4: what techniques are good to restore gel coat?

Q5: what products are good to restore gel coat?

Because most of the gel coat on the boat under discussion is said to be “in good shape”, two good products to use are

• 3M BOAT SOAP
• filtered deionized fresh water

A good technique to use is wash thoroughly using a soft cotton rag. You can get these at auto detailing stores.

Then wipe dry with a chamois cloth.

Don’t wash on a really hot day in direct sunlight.

The combination of 3M BOAT SOAP and filtered deionized water will allow drying to a streak-free finish.

At this point the gel coat should be clean. You can now assess the true condition of the gel coat and decide if the “shape” is “good” enough.

If more luster is needed, use a a very fine polishing compound, and buff the surface. Then rewash and let dry.

Then apply a marine paste wax like Collinite Boat Wax.

Collinite has many good products. This wax is great:

https://www.collinite.com/product/no-92 ... arine-wax/

This method works well on gel coat that is already in good shape, and repeating the wash at least once or twice a year will keep that gel coat in continuing “good shape.” The 3M BOAT SHOP is not a strong detergent or degreaser, and it won’t remove the wax finish.

Thank you and I get that I'm using subjective terms like "good".

I'll put up some pictures for a more objective assessment.