CONTINUOUSWAVE

[On my] 2004 170 MONTAUK with, a 2014 Mercury 90-HP FOURSTROKE engine there is [saltwater] leaking somewhere inside the helm console, and it appears to be coming from an engine gauge or the wiring associated with those gauges. As of this writing I have not traces the water "leak" to an exact source, but I think the source [of the saltwater] is probably from the outboard engine water pressure gauge, or from a wire that connects to the engine water pressure gauge.

I plan to take the 2004 170 MONTAUK to [some place] for service. Saltwater leaking into the helm console is untenable. My "service shop" has a two to three week wait for an appointment,

IF I CAN VERIFY THAT THE SOURCE OF THE LEAK IS FROM THE WATER PRESSURE GAUGE OR A WIRE:

Q1: can I disconnect or disable the engine water pressure gauge and the tube that delivers the pressure water?

Q2: can I disconnect or disable the engine water pressure gauge and the tube that delivers the pressure water at the engine end?

Q3: can I disconnect or disable the engine water pressure gauge and the tube that delivers the pressure water [somewhere] under the helm console?

Being able to disable or disconnect the engine water pressure gauge of the tube that delivers the pressure water will allow me to use the boat until I can get service on the boat. I am sure I could [operate the boat and engine] for a while without the engine water pressure gauge working.

Your advice will be greatly appreciated.

Relax. The problem is likely to be extremely simple to remedy.

The most likely cause for the appearance of seawater (saltwater apparently in your case) coming from somewhere under the console is that the small diameter hose or flexible tubing that connects the input of the water pressure gauge to the water pressure outlet fitting on the engine has fallen off the back of the water pressure gauge, is open to the the air, and the engine is now PUMPING water into that tubing, and the water is from the engine cooling system, so the engine is being robbed of cooling water, and without the gauge on the end of the tubing, the engine will be glad to continually pump water into that tubing any time the engine is running.

HINT: if the tubing fell off the pressure gauge will be reading zero.

The remedy is to look under the helm console and find the water pressure tube inlet on the rear panel of the engine water pressure gauge. If there is no small diameter tube attached to that fitting, then the tube just fell off. Find the tube and stick it back on. To pay a mechanic at a marine $175 to perform this repair is not a good expense.

If you have any problem finding the tubing, just start the engine and let it run for two minutes. By then water will be pouring out of the tubing as fast as the engine can pump it out, and the location of the tubing should not be very difficult to findd.

Typically there is plenty of slack in the tubing, so if the end of the tubing is flared to fit over the fitting on the gauge and is no longer staying in place, then cut off about 0.5-inches of the tubing so you will now have an end on the tube that has not been sitting deformed over the input fitting, and push that fresh undeformed tubing over the input fitting. Problem solved.

The tubing is typically a plastic and is not a rubber hose. I believe the material is chosen so the tubing won’t expand under pressure, which could cause the pressure delivered to the gauge to be reduced.

ASIDE: electrical conductors do not transport seawater, especially not uphill; electric conductors carry electrical current.

If there are drink holders on the helm console, the drink holders typically have a drain at their bottom, and a small tube caries any liquid captured in the bottom of the drink holders downward and into path toward the stern and the cockpit sump area, where that water can be discharged to the sea.

Jimh

Thank you for your valuable reply (and anything else you do for "continuous wave")

Update mostly fyi but comments are welcome:
* Leak source is at the connection point between the water pressure gauge and the tube carrying water from the engine.
* That fitting is a "compression" style not a "nipple" style that you suggested; the tubing was still attached.
* I tried to tighten the compression style nut but it would not turn.
* The water compression gauge is working, despite the continuous leak, showing about 5 psi at 2000 rpms.

Accordingly
* I will take to service asap.
* As I expect a significant service backlog/delay, I will ask them to remove the tube in the engine replacing it with a cover nut (asap)- thus taking the water compression gauge out of operation.
* I will get the gauge/fitting repaired at the end of the season.

Please comment on my interim risk associated with operating motor without a water compression gauge.

Again
THANKS!

pflinally wrote:...comment on my interim risk associated with operating outboard engine without a water compression gauge.

The risks are not very high.

The first problem you will have if the water pressure gauge is inoperative, is, of course, you won't the water pressure value. But probably a million outboard engines run without a water pressure gauge. Most outboard engines DO HAVE an engine temperature gauge, so if the engine gets too hot, the engine will sound an aural alert and perhaps a visual indicator.

The second problem that may occur, and this is only if you do not shut off the flow of cooling water that is being sent to the water pressure gauge, is the some of the engine cooling water is being diverted from cooling the engine and is getting pump out into the boat. That could result in the engine running warmer than normal. If you seal off the tube or hose so there is no leak, there is no harm.

Normally water never reaches the water pressure gauge. There is air in the tubing, and the water just compresses the air and pushes the air against the water pressure gauge--of at least I think that is how it works. If the gauge actually needed water to work, they you would have to bleed all the air out of the connecting hose in order to get the proper measurement. I don't think that is typically done.

So, in summary, no big problem.

But for me, I would take a look at the connection, and see if there were a simple fix. I used to tell people that if you took your car to a dealer for a remedy for any problem, no matter what the problem was, the charge was going to be at least $275--even if the actual time to diagnose and fix the problem was ten minutes. The modern business of operating a boat and engine dealership is getting more like the car-dealer business, and there is going to be a minimum charge of maybe $175 to even take in the boat, look at the problem, and if its simple, fix the problem in ten minutes.

My real-world job for about 40 years was to fix problems that people brought to me. So I am accustomed to fixing problems, rather than hiring someone else to fix the problem. Now, in certain circumstances, I do hire someone to fix a problem, if the problem is clearing going to be something that I cannot fix easily. But fixing a loose connection of a hose to the back of a gauge that measures the pressure in that hose sounds like--to me--a simple problem. So I would at least LOOK at it closely with an view to maybe fixing it myself.

I understand if you are a super-busy guy, the boat is a way to get away from work, and letting someone else handle the problem is the best solution, but I just want to let you know that the WORSE case in this situation is you need a new water pressure gauge, and the BEST case is a connection collar nut just needs to be tightened or a hose has a little crack in it.

Most likely your house is cracked at the fitting. Those fittings are a bit funny. They are rather like SharkBite connectors for PEX plumbing. There's a silver ring where the tubing enters the connector; push that ring in and gently wiggle out the tubing. Don't break the tubing off in the connector or you'll have a heck of a time getting the nub of tubing out.

You may just want to replace the whole run of tubing from the engine to the console. I believe it's 5/16" poly tubing, and you can get it at an auto parts store. Hey plenty, I bought 15' for my 16' Dauntless and I came up short, so I'd suggest 20'.

The problem was, as alluded by JmH and Goldendaze, the compression fitting from the tube from the engine water system to the compression gauge under the console. AND IT was just loose. I trailered to my mechanic who pressed it further back in the fitting (no charge). I subsequently ran it without problem. My mechanic showed me several ways to simply disable the water compression gauge if the fitting fails completely...simply pinch off the tube.

Goldendaze
I hope all is well with you, your family your Smith Mt Lake home, and your whaler. I fondly recall our whaler support for the Bay swims. Thanks for your advice. My Montauk turns 20 this year.

Al! I just realized it's you. Hope you're doing well. Yours was the first new-style 170 Montauk I ever saw, and it's a lovely boat. After 21 years we sold the 160 Dauntless and bought a 23' Edgewater. It's a Bob Dougherty design so I'm hoping JimH won't kick me out. :-)

-Bob

ASIDE to Bob AKA GoldenDaze: the Edgewater boats have more original Boston Whaler DNA than the current-day Boston Whaler boats.

I would assume there must be an Edgewater-oriented forum somewhere, but you are most welcome to stay here, and your many excellent long-form contributions to the website have been just wonderful additions to the collection of information.