Prep for new paint 1968 13BW
Prep for new paint 1968 13BW
So I'm starting off by sanding down the deck and I'm curious if it's necessary to take it all the way down to glass before fairing and priming? When I get down to the original coat of paint there is plenty of crazing btw.
Re: Prep for new paint 1968 13BW
Some here have taken off the gelcoat, I have prepped a 22 OR by sanding off the non-skid and using epoxy primer thinned to near-water consistency to fill and seal the cracks in the gelcoat. I used Interlux epoxy primer 2 coats really thin to soak into the cracks and seal them, followed by 2-3 more heavier coats to fill in gouges and remaining cracks, sanding between each coat to keep it smooth and level.
I used a foam roller to apply both the primer and the Interlux Oyster White Perfection paint. Did this in spring of 2008 and paint still looks good. The Perfection paint lays out nice as long as you roll it out thinly and figure 3-4 finish coats. Figure 90% of your total time will be sanding. I wouldn't bring it all the way to the fiberglass, as I think the remaining sealed gelcoat is still harder and more durable than the glass.
Don't bother trying to clean any brushes- NOTHING will clean them, including the special thinner.
For the non-skid, I used the Perfection mixed with 1/2 flattening additive and a generous helping of Intergrit mixed in the paint. Figure on 2 coats for the non-skid surface and will have the consistency of about 120 grit sandpaper, easy on barefoot passengers and much easier to keep clean the the original Whaler nonskid pattern.
Btw, this paint will raise nearly any prior non-epoxy paint, so be sure to remove any old paint.
I used a foam roller to apply both the primer and the Interlux Oyster White Perfection paint. Did this in spring of 2008 and paint still looks good. The Perfection paint lays out nice as long as you roll it out thinly and figure 3-4 finish coats. Figure 90% of your total time will be sanding. I wouldn't bring it all the way to the fiberglass, as I think the remaining sealed gelcoat is still harder and more durable than the glass.
Don't bother trying to clean any brushes- NOTHING will clean them, including the special thinner.
For the non-skid, I used the Perfection mixed with 1/2 flattening additive and a generous helping of Intergrit mixed in the paint. Figure on 2 coats for the non-skid surface and will have the consistency of about 120 grit sandpaper, easy on barefoot passengers and much easier to keep clean the the original Whaler nonskid pattern.
Btw, this paint will raise nearly any prior non-epoxy paint, so be sure to remove any old paint.