CONTINUOUSWAVE

Q1: can the plumbing to the live well of a 2004 190 NANTUCKET be redone without removing the deck and console?

BACKSTORY
There are access panels on the side of the live well. Also, the bottom can be reached [via a] access panel on deck floor, but it is very tight and can be reached with one hand only.

There is a small leak from the live well drain from the bottom. It goes to by bilge.

The old hose was moved to replace a through hull and I think that did it.

I am pretty sure these are 20-year-old 1.5 sanitary hoses as they are below water line, they were so hard had zero flex. I am hoping I do not have to de-rig the console and take it off with the floor.

Q2: have you consulted the Owner's manual and drawings to understand the rigging path?

You should be able to disconnect the hoses at the live well and attach the new hoses to the end of the old and pull it back aft.

[The process of pulling in new hoses] will be helped if the ambient temperature is very warm as the hose will be more pliable than when cold.

Phil T wrote:Have you consulted the Owners manual and drawings to understand the rigging path?

I have looked at all drawings. [The drawings are] clear and obvious what [hose] goes to where.

I am questioning the [means to access the plumbing in the live well to make repairs].

The access is tight. I am not sure it is physically possible [to do work on the plumbing in the live well].

I have heard about people having to lift the [cockpit deck] to access livewell from inside.


[On the 2004 190 NANTUCKET boat there are] two access hatches.

I also need to change the actual drain on the livewell.

[Somewhere]there is a tee.

I cannot imagine doing all this with only one hand access.



TO SOMEONE WHO HAS A 2004 190 NANTUCKET:

Q3: have you heard anything about [replacing live well hoses or replacing the live well drain]?

[Similar to Q1:]

Q4: how can the hoses for the live well be replaced [without removing the deck]?

Q5: how can the drain in the livewell be replaced [without removing the deck]?

ASIDE: I am going to try to call a dealer. To find the right person [at a Boston Whaler dealership] to talk to [about this situation] is hard. All a dealer wants to do is to sell stuff to you.

Q6: in Figure 1, what is the significance of the red coloring of some lines and blue coloring of other lines?

Q8: are you replacing both the supply and discharge lines?

Q9: is the live well bait tank in the seat base?

Q10: do you plan to replace the live well through hull valve? After 20 years of use it may be time for that.

From the drawing and my experience from working on the live well plumbing on our 190 Montauk I believe any work can be done one handed. But a helper would be very useful, if not essential. I recommend you consider new hose clamps with a hex screw. The hex screw allows tightening the hose clamps with a small socket wrench and ratchet. This will make working with one hand much easier. Use the best quality clamps available made of at least 316 stainless steel including the screw.

Expect to become uncomfortable during the work. I used a folded furniture moving blanket/pad to lay and kneel on during the job.

Jefecinco wrote:Q9: is the live well bait tank in the seat base?

Yes, it [the live well bait tank] is [located in the seat base]. Apparently [for the live well to crack at the bottom] is a known [problem]. It [apparently refers to the seat and live well] is a one-piece part of the actual floor that goes over the tank, and console goes on top it it. If you need to remove it [apparently refers to the seat and livewell one-piece assembly and the console] [the removal process will be] [painfully difficult].

Jefecinco wrote:Q10: do you plan to replace the live well through hull valve? After 20 years of use it may be time for that.

[I] already did [replace the live well through hull valve]. [The reason why I replaced the live well through hull valve was] that same through hull was cracked in a manner that was not obvious from outside and water entered my transom. (Another thread covers that topic.] I have been drying it [apparently refers to the hull where the the other through hull was cracked] for four months.

Jefecinco wrote:From the drawing and my experience from working on the live well plumbing on our 190 Montauk I believe any work can be done one handed. But a helper would be very useful, if not essential. I recommend you consider new hose clamps with a hex screw. The hex screw allows tightening the hose clamps with a small socket wrench and ratchet. This will make working with one hand much easier. Use the best quality clamps available made of at least 316 stainless steel including the screw.

Expect to become uncomfortable during the work. I used a folded furniture moving blanket or pad to lay on and kneel on during the job.

Thanks for suggestion. Thanks also for the hex screw clamps.

I figured [performing some unspecified action] should be doable, [because] [Boston Whaler] left [i.e. provided] the round access hatches, but just thinking about [performing some unspecified action] scares me. Removing these old hoses that [are as] hard as a rock, one handed, without breaking the livewell (because you can not or should not put pressure on the actual drain) it is going to be tough, for sure.

jimh wrote:Q6: in Figure 1, what is the significance of the red coloring of some lines and blue coloring of other lines?

The RED lines are the physical location of the parts. The BLUE lines show how things will get connected.

Also, the plastic parts I showed go at CALLOUT 2 with round circles are hatches.

The RED circle is the thru hull where the 1.5-inch outlet hose connects. That through hull is below the water line. That there is no valve (sea cock_ to close that inlet if some goes wrong is scary.

islavov wrote:

jimh wrote:Q6: in Figure 1, what is the significance of the red coloring of some lines and blue coloring of other lines?

The RED lines are the physical location of the parts.

I do not understand how the location of something can be shown as along a line. I cannot make any sense from your drawing.

Perhaps YOU understand what your intentions was to illustrate with the difference line colors, but I don't see any significance to them.

Q11: what are the red numbers supposed to mean? There is no legend given in the illustration to explain the significance of the numbers.

Q12: what is the purpose of the included small photographs of what appears to be plastic T-connectors for press-fit rubber hoses and a plastic elbow connector that are also part of Figure 1?