Wire Size For High Current Load
Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 8:38 pm
This is not for a boat, but is for 12-Volt DC wiring for an inverter on my tow vehicle, but the same principles apply as for boat wiring. I have a big inverter (1500-Watt steady state, 3000-Watt surge) that I want to wire in my Suburban. I'm already set-up with a second battery under the hood with AWG-1 wire running from that battery into the interior.
I would like to use a very short run of AWG-4 wire to connect from the inverter itself to a junction under the dash. The system is fused at 200-Amperes but would not be expected to pass that much current for any length of time. I don't know a specific current draw for sure, but it is rated at 88% efficient. If I figure 3,000-Watt at 12-Volts and 88% efficient, I get 284-Ampere maximum, while at the 1,500-Watat steady state that translates into 142-Ampere continuous. I think that the surge load could be reasonably analogized to the starting load on an outboard motor, where you don't size the system for continuous operation at that load, as evidenced by the only 200-Ampere fuse recommendation from the manufacturer. I have similar size fuses on my Optimax 150 engines.
The manufacturer recommends 10-feet or less of 2-AWG cable. I have about 8-feet of 1-AWG cable at the moment and would like to add a one-foot connector of 4-AWG cable due to a very tight bend area that I am working in. If I use this voltage calculator the manufacturer specification gives a voltage drop of 5-percent at 200 A.
When I look at the same web page, it recommends no less than 2-AWG gauge wire for a 200A load. However, I suspect that is because rarely would someone ever use as short a piece as one fooet. Marinco has a similar recommendation and for 200A recommends 2-AWG with 4-AWG gauge topping out at 160-Amperes.
If I am doing my math correctly, I think I could reasonably use a short 4-AWG connector, since my maximum continuous load would be 142-Ampere. Voltage drop per one foot of 4=AWG at 200-Amperes is just under one-percent.
--Am I doing my math correctly on figuring out the load in Amperes?
--Does it seem like a very short piece of 4-AWG would be reasonable in this system?
Thanks for your input and quality assurance. I know we have a lot of wiring whizzes on the page here.
I would like to use a very short run of AWG-4 wire to connect from the inverter itself to a junction under the dash. The system is fused at 200-Amperes but would not be expected to pass that much current for any length of time. I don't know a specific current draw for sure, but it is rated at 88% efficient. If I figure 3,000-Watt at 12-Volts and 88% efficient, I get 284-Ampere maximum, while at the 1,500-Watat steady state that translates into 142-Ampere continuous. I think that the surge load could be reasonably analogized to the starting load on an outboard motor, where you don't size the system for continuous operation at that load, as evidenced by the only 200-Ampere fuse recommendation from the manufacturer. I have similar size fuses on my Optimax 150 engines.
The manufacturer recommends 10-feet or less of 2-AWG cable. I have about 8-feet of 1-AWG cable at the moment and would like to add a one-foot connector of 4-AWG cable due to a very tight bend area that I am working in. If I use this voltage calculator the manufacturer specification gives a voltage drop of 5-percent at 200 A.
When I look at the same web page, it recommends no less than 2-AWG gauge wire for a 200A load. However, I suspect that is because rarely would someone ever use as short a piece as one fooet. Marinco has a similar recommendation and for 200A recommends 2-AWG with 4-AWG gauge topping out at 160-Amperes.
If I am doing my math correctly, I think I could reasonably use a short 4-AWG connector, since my maximum continuous load would be 142-Ampere. Voltage drop per one foot of 4=AWG at 200-Amperes is just under one-percent.
--Am I doing my math correctly on figuring out the load in Amperes?
--Does it seem like a very short piece of 4-AWG would be reasonable in this system?
Thanks for your input and quality assurance. I know we have a lot of wiring whizzes on the page here.